Fractional thread, or warp thread, indicates how the work of the loom is guided in the process of manufacturing matter. Tailors and cutters need to know how to determine it. The basis is the main indicator of a stable and low extensible material. It is used as a key characteristic in the design and cutting of fabric. Further in the article we will talk about the correct and quick definition of the warp thread.
Types of fabric
Before proceeding to the definition of a shared thread, you need to understand the types of matter. These include:
- A material that is characterized by an organized grating-weave. It is made on looms.
- Knitwear is a knitted fabric that has different types of weaving. The resulting fabric is elastic and represents a configuration of loops that are arranged in columns and rows.
- Non woven materials. They are made from synthetic fiber, on which there is no direction of structure. These include non-woven and sintepon.
Having an idea of the structure of the tissue, you can quickly determine its basis. Next, we will talk about its exact establishment.
Fabric structure
If we consider the material in detail, then on it you can see the perpendicular intersection of two tissue systems.
When comparing lobar and transverse threads, we can conclude that they have some differences. The former give stronger shrinkage than the latter. This is due to the fact that during weaving, the warp threads are tighter than the weft ones. They are located quite freely. When exposed to steam, the warp yarns acquire their original position, and the fabric sits along the length.
The thread that runs parallel to the work of the loom is called the warp. Its second name is the shared thread on the fabric. Along its edge, the density of the output increases, so a strong and non-blooming edge is formed. He got the name of the hem.
Features of the location of the warp
To pinpoint a shared thread, you need to know the following:
- The base is always located along the edge of the fabric.
- The combed pile is located in the direction of the pile.
- If we consider low-density fabric in the light, you will notice that the location of the base is more straightforward than the weft.
- In half-woolen and half-linen fabrics, a shared thread is cotton.
- In semi-silk fabric, the warp thread is silk.
- The density of the base in most fabrics is greater than the density of the weft.
Mark the direction of the shared thread on the pattern with the arrow.
Definition of a shared thread in fabric
To clarify the location of the base, use the following tips:
- If the matter is new, then it is difficult to make a mistake, because it is along the edge. Fractional differs from the transverse in its low extensibility. A shred of fabric is pulled in the hands, in the direction along and across. Where the material is less flexible, the shared thread is located there.
- You can set the location of the threads by sound. To do this, sharply pull the fabric along the lobar, as a result, voiced cotton will be heard. In the opposite direction, the sound is more dull.
- The fabric can be further examined in the light. Visually, it will be noticeable that the warp threads are smooth, dense and even. They are more twisted compared to transverse.
If there is an edge on matter, then the same method is used as on other materials. The shared thread will be parallel to the edge of the knitted fabric.
In the case when it is cut, it is not difficult to determine the location. You should carefully look at the canvas: where the columns and loops are visible. The direction of the columns corresponds to the location of the base.
Certain varieties of knitted fabric must be handled carefully because its loops can open to form “arrows”.
On some varieties of such fabric, the direction of the threads along the edge, which is wrapped in a tube, is determined. On the basis of the canvas is even.
There are no rows with loops on the loose fabric, and if you cut the edge, then determining the direction of the base becomes a difficult task. However, there are secrets according to which the shared thread is determined accurately on any fabric.
To do this, take a flap of tissue and bring it to a light source (window or lamp). The warp yarns are usually more evenly spaced than the transverse ones and are better visible.
Simple tips to help you work
Some cutters and tailors quickly determine not only the location of the warp, but also the front and back sides. It is not difficult to do this. Therefore, they inspect the fabric before cutting.
The front part is usually smooth, and flaws in the form of nodules and irregularities lead to the wrong side. Holes are located along the edge of the fabric - they remain after the material is released from the machine.
If you carefully examine them, then the entrance of the needle and a smooth surface will correspond to the wrong side, and the exit and rough fabric to the front.
When placing patterns on the fabric, the direction of the base should be applied to each part. If you do not follow these recommendations, then the finished product will lose its appearance and will stretch after washing.
Cut fabric
The process is carried out along the edge. In the magazines, the finished patterns have the already marked arrangement of the shared thread. The line is extended until the end of the pattern.
When laying it on the fabric, the line is placed parallel to the edge and the base. The pattern is pinned with pins, outlined with chalk and cut out with allowance for seams. Individual parts are cut along an oblique line. This arrangement is indicated on the pattern. The detail is laid parallel to the diagonal of the fabric.
From how the master determines all the directions of the threads on the fabric, and in accordance with their location, the product is cut. The appearance and duration of use of finished clothing depend on this.
How to make allowances when cutting products?
All patterns are made without special allowances for seams; in the process, they are outlined along the contours of parts when placed directly on the fabric. Width on the sides of the products is 1.5 cm, 4 cm on the bottom edge and sleeves, unless otherwise provided.
When cutting a model from knitted fabric, the allowances are reduced to 0.5-1 cm. After all, in this case they are grinded using an overlock.
When parts are folded with a fold, then it is worth laying them out not only along the warp thread, but also along the fold of the fabric, exactly to the edge. In such a situation, allowances are not recommended. After the final layout on the material, all parts are pinned with needles and circled with tailor's chalk. Mark seam allowances and control lines.
Accurate determination of the location of the shared thread is necessary so that the result is a quality stitched clothing. In addition, you need to consider the silhouette, type of fabric. The necessary arrangement of parts and a large number of other technical subtleties allows to realize the designer's idea in obtaining a special product.