With the advent of the first warm days, every woman wants to finally change her boring trouser suits to a more feminine and romantic look. The dress in this case is the most suitable outfit. However, here the fair sex, especially those who by nature got appetizing magnificent forms, are faced with the problem of planting the product. That requires a dress style that hides the stomach, the ratio of the waist of the chest and hips, to put it mildly, do not coincide with the generally accepted standards of dimensional nets that are used for sewing clothes. And I want to have a trendy trendy dress in the wardrobe, in which all the flaws of the figure are hidden, and the virtues are correctly emphasized.
Therefore, it’s time to familiarize yourself with how the dress pattern is built for the complete, what tricks the process of tailoring the product has, and try yourself as a fashion designer.
Fabric selection
Properly selected material is already half the success. A "large" dress is best sewed from fabrics with a fine pattern without horizontal stripes. Large flowers or geometric print shapes can visually enhance the silhouette. A win-win option is a plain canvas. And here the color can be absolutely any, of course, within reason. Agree, a magnificent lady is unlikely to look harmonious in a dress of caustic neon color.
As for the quality and type of fabric, here you need to understand the following: a knitted fabric does not require such a careful adjustment, in contrast to the woven. Therefore, those who first took up sewing such a product, it is better to give preference to knitted fabrics.
Model selection
The style of the dress, hiding the belly, is the dream of every chubby girl. What is he like? First of all, you should sweep away all the options for a simple cut of a fitted silhouette and a dress with a skirt that is sewn along the waistline. Here, without fail, the waist should be too high if it is a model with a sewn skirt or the wedges of the whole product should be flared from the waist line so that the dress does not fit the stomach. Of course, the thing will not make the stomach fit, but visually align the silhouette.
It also happens that the pattern of dresses for the full is not quite suitable for tailoring the dress, because the figure does not differ in completeness, but the stomach sticks out anyway. But I want to wear a tight-fitting dress to emphasize the beautiful curve of the waist and tightened buttocks. In this case, the ideal option would be a dress with a peplum or flounce from the shoulder to the opposite side of the thigh. Decorative elements should be positioned so as to cover the stomach 20 cm down from the waistline.
Material quantity calculation
Quite often, when it comes to sewing clothes, it is precisely the question of calculating the canvas that leads to the stupor of many inexperienced craftswomen. How much fabric does a dress need? It all depends on the style.
If this is a dress with clawed wedges (provided that the fabric is 1.4-1.5 meters wide), for a full girl it will take 2-3 lengths from the shoulder to the bottom of the hem + allowance for processing and the distance to the sleeve. If this is a combined model of knitwear and silk, then 1 top length and 2 lengths for the skirt on the dresses will be required. Layout diagrams of parts also play an important role in the calculation. For example, a sun skirt with a length of not more than 60 cm can be compactly fit on less fabric than 2 lengths. But for a product in the floor you need to take material with a margin of ½ waist circumference + 10 cm.
Taking measurements
The construction of a dress pattern for full and thin people always begins with taking measurements, regardless of style and type of fabric.
To create a template, you will need the following measurements:
- girths of hips, waist, chest and neck;
- length from shoulder to waist along the back and front;
- the distance between the tucks of the chest (measured from the center to the center of the mammary gland);
- width of the back at the level of the shoulder blades;
- chest height from the shoulder to the center;
- shoulder width.
Sewing benefits
Firsthand, the landing problem is familiar to girls whose parameters do not fit into standard dimensional grids. In this case, individual tailoring is the only opportunity to get a thing harmoniously sitting on the figure. Therefore, away from all doubts and excuses, they say, pattern dress for the full - this is an impossible task. A little zeal and effort - and you can enjoy the result.
Building a template
Whether it is a dress pattern for full or for slim women with an aspen waist and chest size four, the construction will be the same. For the drawing, you will need a piece of construction film or wallpaper on which to build a rectangle with sides corresponding to the length of the product and the half-girth of the chest. Next, the chest line is determined by the measure "chest height", the waist line for the front and back, and 20 cm lower - the line of the hips.
After proceeding directly to the transfer of measurements:
- in the upper corners of the drawing note girth of the neck;
- outline the length of the shoulder seam at a slope of 15 degrees;
- on the back, determine the boundary of half the width of the back and raise the perpendicular;
- in front, note half of the tuck solution and also raise the line up;
- a distance equal to ¼ of the half-circumference of the chest departs from the border of the width of the back and mark the border of the armhole;
- in front on the shoulder from the perpendicular raised from the chest line, 2-3 cm recede (to the armhole) and draw a tuck;
- the shoulder line of the shelf is extended by an identical distance to the tuck;
- draw a rounded armhole;
- determine the middle of the armhole zone and lower the perpendicular from it;
- along the waist line make marks for tucks along the side seam and one at the back and the shelf, evenly distributing the difference in half-circumference of the chest and waist;
- ¼ measurements of the “girth of the hips” are laid off along the hips line, thereby determining the boundaries of the side seam in this area.
At this stage, we can assume that the pattern is ready, ready for modeling.