Until recently, many gardeners believed that growing roses in Siberia was an empty exercise requiring a lot of knowledge and troubles. However, in recent years, planting roses has become widespread, gardeners-experimenters have learned from personal experience that some varieties tolerate Siberian winters very well.
Also, a lot of information has appeared on the cultivation of these beauties in the middle lane, and grown roses in Siberia ripen even better than in warmer regions. True, there are years when the summer is rainy, and the second wave of flowering occurs during the preparation of the bushes for wintering, for this all buds must be cut. This need is caused so that the seedlings can gain strength, the
root system is strengthened, and frost does not affect the plants. In general, preserving rose bushes with winter shelter is half the success. No less important is the observance of the deadlines for opening roses. Indeed, under shelter,
delicate flowers can vyprit, rot, get sick with fungal diseases.
To preserve roses in the winter from freezing, their root system is bred or sprinkled with humus, a frame of
wooden laths is made around the bushes and a lapnik or covering material is attached. In winter, snow piles protect the bushes well from frost, but in spring, at a time when it is still not possible to open roses, they can deteriorate under snowdrifts, ventilation must be done to allow air to flow to shelter places, because it is at this time that the buds begin to wake up. This should be done on sunny days, when the air temperature is positive, the snow is slightly raked, but the shelter should not be removed. Depending on the weather (spring is lingering), from mid-March to mid-April is the best time to open roses. To do this, the snow is completely thrown back, the covering material for the daytime can be removed, and in the evening, if severe frosts are expected, it is necessary to return it to the bushes.
Plants cope with insignificant minus temperatures, and at a mark below minus 8 -10 degrees they can freeze. At the beginning of April, when it is already necessary to tear off the roses, the humus that is strewn around the flowers must be removed so that the root system does not spill out. It is necessary to fertilize with mineral fertilizers or mullein infusion. After removing the shelter, the branches must be shortened, despite the fact that they were cut off in the fall. Blackened shoots need to be cut completely to the place where the branch is green, and if they are black to the ground, then it is necessary to cut completely. In this case, it may seem that the bush is dead, but do not rush to uproot it. To save the plant, it is necessary to dilute the product for stimulating root formation (Epin, Zircon, Cornevin, etc.) in the proportions indicated on the package. At least one bucket of the resulting solution must be poured onto a bush and not touched for at least a month. The root system will begin to produce weak sprouts first, and then with the help of top dressing they will grow stronger, but there may not be violent flowering. Now, the main thing is to prepare the bush for winter, so that next year it will delight with the splendor of its flowers. In general, any experience comes with practice, and if you have never grown roses, first buy the most undemanding variety, consult the seller, find out the features of its cultivation, ask when to open roses, and in the future you will give these recommendations to others to beginners.