The interest of the people in the events of the Second World War is growing ever stronger. On May 9, all schoolchildren and preschool children dress in military uniforms and pay tribute to the heroes who once liberated the whole world from German invaders, participating in parades and arranging whole performances on the subject in schools and kindergartens. There are also military-patriotic reconstruction clubs, where people try to recreate events, life and clothes of that time as accurately as possible.
Therefore, this article will discuss the main detail of the military uniform of the time - the tunic. Here the pattern of the tunic and its tailoring will be examined in detail.
Also in modern fashion, many designers often use such a style as military. Therefore, the pattern of the Great Patriotic War tunic is useful not only for creating the image of a soldier from the time of the Great Patriotic War, it can be used as the basis for a stylish shirt, jacket or light jacket.
Gymnast for the boy
To get a gymnast for a girl, a pattern is optional. If you do not have time or just do not want to build a pattern, you can reshoot all the elements from the finished shirt of the right size. You will only have to lengthen a couple of cm pattern cuff and slightly redo the collar.
Of course, if you are not interested in the exact authenticity of this outfit, it will be enough to buy a khaki shirt and change its “native” buttons on it to buttons with stars and sew epaulets.
However, the similarity of the tunics made by any of the above methods will be approximate.
A military tunic will be much better and closer to the original, the pattern of which is made from A to Z.
Materials and Tools
In order for you to get a pattern of a tunic for a boy, you will need the following materials and tools.
- Centimeter.
- Chalk cutter or a small remnant.
- Pencil.
- Patterns.
- The paper on which the pattern will be built. Any paper of the right size, such as newspapers, will do. However, it is better to use graph paper if the pattern of a tunic or any other more or less serious product is new to you.
- Threads in a suitable color.
- Sewing machine.
- Threads in a contrasting color.
- Ruler.
- Thick fabric (batiste will do).
- Buttons with a star - 6 pcs.
- Buttons for shoulder straps.
Taking measurements
So, you need a children's tunic. Pattern of this element of the form of the Second World War requires the same measurements as the men's shirt. On many sites, measurements on patterns are indicated by abbreviations, which for beginners in sewing are not always clear. In this article, you can decipher for yourself the notation of the measurements used for sewing children's and men's shirts and tunics.
Taking measurements, you should stand on the side of the person to whom you are going to sew a tunic. Using a centimeter, measure the following parts of the body. Remember - the centimeter when measuring should not be stretched.
In order for your pattern of the Second World War tunic to be perfect, you need to take the following measurements.
- OSH - neck circumference. The girth of the neck is needed in order to sew the collar of the correct diameter. Measure the neck in the place where the collar will start (closer to the base of the neck), when measuring, place a thumb under the centimeter , this is necessary so that the collar is not too tight and does not cause discomfort.
- OG - chest circumference. These measurements are made on the most prominent points of the chest.
- FROM - waist circumference. To determine the waistline, find the thinnest place between the last ribs and the beginning of the pelvic bone. Tie the waist with thread or elastic. This will not only facilitate your determination of exhaust gas, but also come in handy for further measurements.
- ABOUT - hips. This measurement is taken at the most prominent points of the buttocks.
- SH - chest width. To make it easier for you to measure your SH, insert as high as possible into the armpits of the ruler, wooden sticks or cardboard bookmarks. You only need to measure the distance from the highest point of one ruler to the highest point of another ruler from the chest. Do not take out the rulers (or what you put in your armpits), they will come in handy for removing AL.
- ShS - back width. The width of the back is measured almost the same as the width of the chest, only from the side of the chest. Measure the distance between the highest points of the rulers from the back.
- - shoulder width. Measure the distance from the neck at the place you chose to measure the OR to the end of the shoulder (or to the place where you want to see the shoulder seam).
- DR - sleeve length. Measure the distance from the place where the shoulder seam will be located to the “knuckle” of the thumb.
- OP - shoulder girth. Measure the circumference of the tense biceps at the most prominent point.
- OZ - girth of the wrist. This measurement is needed to determine the width of the bottom line of the cuff of the tunic. For this measurement, insert a thumb between the measuring centimeter and the wrist.
- CI - product length. Measure the distance from the seventh vertebra to the most prominent point of the buttocks. Or from the seventh vertebra to the point where your product will end.
Building patterns
Without high-quality fabric, you won’t get a good children's tunic. The pattern in sewing this element of the form of the Second World War is also important.
Below will be given the increases and other additional calculations that the tunic requires. The pattern for a child and an adult is almost the same. To more clearly show how to build a pattern, we take for clarity the following values:
- Exhaust gas - 45 cm.
- OSH - 16.5 cm.
- AL - 19 cm.
- CI - 65 cm.
- ShG - 18 cm.
- DR - 55 cm.
Back and front of the tunic
- The depth of the armhole of the back of the tunic: OG / 3 + 8 = 45/3 + 8 = 23 cm.
- To the width of the back you need to make an increase of 1.5 cm: 18 + 1.5 = 19.5 cm.
- To know the width of the armhole, you need OG / 3 = 45/3 = 15 cm.
- To determine the size of the tunic in the chest area, add 10: 45 + 10 = 55 cm to the exhaust gas.
- Side seam location: 4 cm from the back.
- The width of the sprout is calculated as follows: OSH / 3 + 0.5 = 16.5 / 3 + 0.5 = 6 cm.
- To calculate the height of the sprout, divide the SR by 3: 6/3 = 2 cm.
- The back shoulder should be lowered by 3 cm.
- At the back, the shoulder protrudes 1 cm.
- From the chest line along the armhole of the back, a point is laid: the depth of the armhole / 3 = 23/3 = 7.6.
- An auxiliary line of 3 cm is laid out from the corner along the armhole of the back.
- At the bottom, the back side expands by 2 cm.
- In front, the width of the neck is equal to the width of the sprout: 6 cm.
- In front, the neck depth is equal to: sprout width + 1 = 6 + 1 = 7 cm.
- The front shoulder should be lowered by 5 cm.
- The front shoulder is equal: the back shoulder is 1 cm.
- On the armhole of the shelf from the chest line up, we postpone 1/3 of the depth of the armhole: 23/3 = 7.6 cm.
- An auxiliary line of 3 cm is laid out from the corner along the armhole of the shelf.
- At the bottom, the back side expands by 4 cm.
- The front of the floor is extended by 3 cm.
- The front closure expands by 30 cm.
Sleeve sizes
- DR = 55 cm.
- The sleeve width from above can be calculated without taking measurements, simply dividing the exhaust gas by 3 and adding 6: 45/3 + 6 = 21 cm.
- The width of the sleeve below is calculated as follows: OG / 3 + 3 = 45/3 + 3 = 18 cm.
- The height of the sleeve ridge is equal to the width of the armhole: 15 cm.
Cuff dimensions
- Cuff length: approximately 8 cm.
- Cuff Width: Wrist Width + 2cm.
Gate dimensions
- Gate width: 9 cm.
- Gate length: OSH + 6 = 16.5 cm.
Dimensions for the strap for cutting the fastener
- The upper bar is 37 cm in length.
- The upper bar is 8 cm wide.
- The lower bar is 32 cm in length.
- The lower bar is 3 cm wide.
Valve dimensions
- The valve is 13.5 cm in length.
- The middle of the valve is 7 cm wide.
- On the sides of the valve is 4 cm.
Pocket turning dimensions
- Turning length - 16 cm.
- Turning width - 6 cm.
Pocket Burlap Sizes
- Burlap width - 16 cm.
- Burlap length - 40 cm.
Pocket size
- Pocket length - 16 cm.
- The width of the pocket on top is 15 cm.
- The width of the pocket below is 15 cm.
- The width of the pocket below is 16 cm.
The pattern of the tunic for the boy or girl is constructed in the same way as the pattern of the male shirt, but the width of the cuff is increased by 2 cm and the collar is built in the form of a rectangle.
According to the measurements taken by you and calculated according to the above formulas, a sewing pattern is drawn on paper. According to these calculations, only a women's tunic cannot be sewn, the pattern in this case is slightly different.
Cut
When the pattern of the soldier's tunic is built, it must be transferred from paper to fabric and cut. Before applying the drawing, the material must be properly smoothed or steamed. If you have chosen a fabric that can “sit down” after washing, you must wash it in very warm (not boiling water) water and dry it before use.
When the preparation of the material is completed, you can proceed directly to the cutting.
- Cut a paper pattern, remember that you need to cut strictly along the pencil line, without going beyond it, otherwise the finished product may turn out to be smaller or larger.
- Fold the fabric in half with the front side inward (so that you draw on the wrong side).
- Circle all the details, the back and the front part (halves on the paper pattern) of the tunic are applied to the fold of fabric with the even side, so that after you cut and straighten this part of the pattern, you get the whole back and front part.
- You should succeed: the front part - 1 pc., The back - 1 pc., 4 flap pockets, the collar - 1 pc., The cuffs - 2 pc., The straps - 2 pc.
- In our example, we will not sew pockets on the tunic; we will sew only valves to create the illusion of pockets. If you want to make real pockets, open pockets with burlap.
- Cut out the circled parts, 1 cm from the drawn lines (allowances for seams).
Sewing
We approached the most critical part of the work. The tunic pattern is ready, all the details are cut out - you can start sewing.
First of all, all the details need to be swept away, and then sew them together.
- In pairs, we sweep the flap pockets from the wrong side. We sew the machine on sour cream, leaving only the upper side of the valves unbroken. We turn out the valves and, departing from the edge of 0.5 cm, we sew the valves (except for the upper part) with a decorative stitch.
- We sweep to the cut at the front of the tunic, and then sew the trims - back and front.
- Sew the valves to the front of the product at chest level.
- We sweep the back and in front of the product at the shoulder seams, and then sew the sour cream.
- To the bottom of the pattern of the sleeves, we sew the cuffs in a straightened form. Sew one edge of the cuff on the wrong side of the sleeve. We apply the free edge of the cuff to the sewn edge and sew the folded element on the sides. We turn the resulting design and, bending the free edge, attach it on the front side. We make a decorative stitch on the sides and top edge of the cuffs. We make and process the loop.
- We sweep the sleeves to the armholes, and then sew them there with the help of a machine and make a decorative stitch in a circle.
- Sew the edges of the sleeve and side seams.
- We smooth and steam the product thoroughly.
- Sew buttons with stars to the strap and flap pockets.
After each of the points listed, the product should be ironed. Well-ironed seams are the key to a quality-tailored product.
Thus, a tunic for a girl can also be sewn, the pattern is the same for children of both sexes.