Many are interested in how to make two-level plasterboard ceilings for the living room. Photos of various options are offered in our article. At first glance, it may seem that only professionals can do this task. In fact, everyone who has patience, perseverance and will follow the technology will cope with such work.
Finishing and construction options
There are many options for two-level drywall ceilings : with backlight, curved, straight. The simplest and most affordable of them is a lower-level device in the form of a rectangular box.
This design is intended for mounting fixtures. A niche formed between the ceiling and the secondary tier is used for the backlight device.
Finishing the top level can be done in the following ways:
- Wet. The ceiling is leveled by plastering using building mixtures.
- Covering the ceiling with drywall along the guides or gluing to the base.
- A device from drywall of a two-level stretch ceiling, the photo of which is presented in the article.
The material for the device frame can serve as wooden blocks or special metal profiles. The latter are most preferable, since they are much more durable than wood, do not require additional processing, and are not subject to deformation from temperature changes and humidity changes.
As fasteners, dowels or anchor wedges are used. The latter are preferable because they hold the structure more reliably, especially in those cases when the floors are mounted from hollow slabs.
Special metal profiles for the frame device are divided into ceiling (PP), rack (PS), ceiling guides (PNP), guides (PN), flexible (GP) and suspensions for mounting to the ceiling (PP). They differ from each other in rigidity, size and method of application:
- PP are made of galvanized steel with dimensions of 27x60 mm. Used for mounting the top-level frame, box and niche.
- PNPs are used to connect ceiling profiles to each other and fasten the frame to the ceiling structure. They have a size of 27x28 mm.
- Racks of boxes and transitions between levels are prepared from PS. Unlike PP and PN, they have increased stiffness, which is achieved by increasing the height of the side wall to 50 mm. Available in widths of 50 and 100 mm.
- PN are intended for linking racks together and attaching them to the upper and lower levels of the ceiling. Equal with racks width. Wall height - 40 mm.
- Curved transitions are performed by a flexible galvanized profile.
- To connect the floor with the frame, a suspension is used.
To assemble the frame, you will need self-tapping screws with a press washer.
For facing the ceiling and ducts, various types of drywall are used:
- 9.5 mm thick sheet.
- Moisture resistant sheet in rooms with high humidity.
- Wall durable.
- Thick (12.5 mm).
For the preparation of drywall for painting, as well as for the sealing of joints and fasteners at the joints, ready-made universal and finishing putty gypsum compounds will be required.
A fine mesh polymer mesh is used to process putty joints to prevent cracking. External transition angles between the upper and lower levels are reinforced with a rigid or flexible corner, plastic or galvanized.
For the final preparation of the ceiling and baskets for painting, you need a primer. It will reduce paint consumption and improve its adhesion to the surface.
It is imperative to make a scale drawing before mounting a two-level drywall ceiling with backlight. The photo shows that the design can be very intricate. With the help of the drawing, you can choose the form suitable for this room and avoid overspending materials. According to the readiness of the project, the required amount of materials is calculated and work on the installation of electrical wiring is performed.
Top-level frame mounting
The ceiling itself, which is the upper level, can be plastered, stretched and made of drywall. Basically, the last option is considered. It allows you to hide all the irregularities of the base and arrange the lights and lights on both levels.
The simplest option is to assemble the lathing from guide profiles and direct ceiling suspensions:
- Horizontal markings are applied to the walls. In the case of installation in the upper level of the built-in luminaires, it is indented from the ceiling at a distance of 4 to 8 cm. The exact parameters depend on the size of the luminaire and the convenience of connecting it to the network.
- Fastening is done end-to-end or with a slight overlap. The profile is applied to the wall along the marked marking line, drilled with a puncher along with the wall and fastened with dowel nails every 500 mm.
- With a pitch of 600 mm, marking of the installation sites of ceiling profiles is applied. Then, with a width of a standard sheet of drywall equal to 1200 mm, its edges will be placed along the axis of the ceiling profiles.
- Also, with a pitch of 600 mm, suspensions are mounted along the line for placing the ceiling profile.
- The guide profiles are cut to the desired size, inserted into the ceiling suspensions. For their preliminary fixation, their “legs” are bent towards each other around the ceiling guide profile.
- A cord is stretched between the guide profiles of the opposite walls, along which the horizontal position of the ceiling profiles is aligned.
- The “legs” of the suspensions are unbent, the ceiling profiles are exposed along the cord and fastened with self-tapping screws.
The galvanized profile is cut with metal shears. When treated with a grinder, the zinc coating heats up and evaporates, and the profiles rust over time.
Mounting the lower frame
Let's consider how do-it-yourself installation of a two-level drywall ceiling is done. The photo presents several simple options for consideration.
The device of a ceiling box for fixtures
This is the simplest option, allowing you to mount fixtures in the box, distributing them around the entire perimeter of the room. Additionally, a chandelier is usually placed in the center of the upper level. Also, the ceiling box is used to hide communications: electrical wiring, ventilation, etc. The vertical transition between the levels is performed from a rack or ceiling profile.
We will study in detail how to make a two-level ceiling from drywall:
- The boundaries of the box are marked on the walls and ceiling.
- The guides are attached to the walls with dowels and the upper frame with self-tapping screws. The operation can also be performed after facing the upper level with drywall. In this case, the self-tapping screws for mounting the PN to the upper level should be longer.
- Directly to the crate of the first level, the frame of the second is mounted.
- Racks are made of PP and screwed to the ceiling rails with short self-tapping screws in increments equal to the width of the drywall sheet.
- Two PNP are connected by self-tapping screws so that the racks and transverse profiles of the crate of the box are installed at the right angle in the resulting structure, that is, the bottom wall of one profile should lie on the side wall of the other.
- The resulting twin structure is worn on the lower ends of the uprights and fastened with self-tapping screws.
- Perpendicular to the uprights, transverse profiles are inserted into and connected to the wall rails. The resulting box construction is fixed with screws. If the width of the box exceeds 60 cm, the transverse profiles of the box are additionally attached to the ceiling with suspensions.
Ceiling box with a niche for lighting
How to make a two-level drywall ceiling with a niche? Same as in the example described above. Only a small addition will be required. After marking, guides are attached to the wall and base. Racks are mounted to them. Their lower edges should be flush with the lower shelf of the guide on the wall.
Further, the process is somewhat different from the installation of the ceiling box. So, how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling? You need to perform the following actions:
- Cross profiles are attached to the guides on the wall and directly to the racks.
- To form a niche, transverse profiles are released per rack at 100-250 mm.
- The cantilever parts of the transverse profiles are combined. The resulting construction protruding from the wall is sheathed with plasterboard. Niche gets a finished look.
Two-level ceiling with curved transitions
A curved transition between the upper and lower levels is usually collected with a height of 100 mm. The easiest way is to make it a flexible profile, fixing it with self-tapping screws with first-level PP rails. If there is no flexible profile, it can be replaced by PN.
When the height of the frame is more than 100 mm, the method described above is used (for mounting the box). The required height of the frame of the two-level ceiling made of drywall is formed by racks and dual guides.
Covering two-level structures with plasterboard
To prepare sheets for facing curved surfaces, they are cut with a jigsaw. The cutouts for the fixtures are also performed by pre-drilling a hole for the file in the removed fragment. It is better to break straight sections, having previously cut them along the marking line. In this case, almost no dust is formed.
How it's done:
- The cut line is drawn several times along the attached profile or ruler with a sharpened knife.
- The sheet is placed on the edge of the table or stack of drywall so that the edge of the table or other support coincides with the cut line.
- By clicking on the free edge of the sheet, a free-hanging section is separated along the cut line.
- The cardboard shell on the back of the sheet is cut with a knife.
- Roughness along the fault line is cut with a plane or sharpened knife.
The prepared fragments of the casing are fixed with self-tapping screws to all profiles that the part closes, including the guides. To avoid damage to the edges of the sheet, do not screw the screws too close to the edge.
Self-tapping screws must be inserted into the material a millimeter below its surface. All these irregularities are subsequently putty.
To simplify the process of setting self-tapping screws, a special bit with a limiter should be used. Sheets are fastened every 200 mm. Under each junction of two products, a profile must be mounted to which they are attached.
Putty and paint
The preparation of gypsum putty is as follows:
- Water is poured into a clean container (at the rate of 1 liter of liquid per 1.5 kg of mixture).
- A gypsum mixture is poured into a container of water with a thin stream, evenly distributing it over the entire surface.
- Within three minutes, the mixture swells.
- The finished composition is thoroughly mixed with a perforator with an appropriate nozzle.
- After a three-minute exposure, it is ready to be applied to the treated surface.
Since the composition sets in 30-40 minutes, it is prepared in portions of not more than 5 kg.
First, the joints of the sheets with fasteners are putty. The applied mesh is glued onto the applied layer. Then a second layer of putty is applied over it.
Reinforcing corners are attached to the profiles with screws and covered with putty. If the corner protrudes above the surface of the sheet, its entire surface is putty until complete alignment.
For such work you will need a wide spatula. The mixture is superimposed on it with a narrower tool.
After the entire prepared composition is developed, the container and tool are washed until the gypsum is completely removed. Otherwise, irregularities from the hardened material will seriously complicate the putty process.
Perform the installation of a two-level ceiling made of drywall and in the kitchen. Photos of such structures look pretty attractive. After the installation is completed, 3 mandatory operations are performed:
- The surface is carefully sanded, smoothing out the sag and furrow. The work is carried out in two stages. First, grinding is done with mesh # 80. The necessary smoothness is achieved after processing grids No. 120-150.
- Be sure to clean the surface of dust after grinding. If this is not done, dust will interfere with the painting.
- The polished and cleaned surface is covered with a primer layer using a roller or brush.
To perform high-quality grinding, it is necessary to illuminate the ceiling with a lamp from a close distance to reveal remaining irregularities. After the primer dries with a roller and a brush in two layers, the surface is painted.
After the paint has dried, you can proceed with the installation of the fixtures. It is worth emphasizing that for the entire period of work, it is necessary to remove all household appliances from the premises, which include cooling fans: computers and laptops, microwave ovens. If this is not possible, disconnect everything and cover it tightly with plastic wrap. Otherwise, the fans will clog tightly with gypsum dust.
Installation of lighting
Lighting devices are connected to pre-made wiring using terminal blocks.
Recessed luminaires in the design of two-level gypsum plasterboard ceilings are fixed in the cut-out holes by grippers on the springs. The LED strip is previously exempted from the protective coating pasted on its back side. As a rule, a tape of small power is used. Therefore, its fastening to drywall can be performed without a heat sink aluminum profile.
A niche between the base and the second level is used to install the power supply. In the case of installation of two-level ceilings with lighting in rooms of high humidity, the power supply must be moved to another room where the humidity does not exceed the norm.
For electrical safety, all work on connecting lighting devices is carried out when the voltage is off.
Conclusion
Two-level plasterboard ceilings with lighting, photos of which can be seen in our article, fit perfectly into the interior of any room, add sophistication and emphasize the originality of the design decision.
Almost anyone who has the minimum knowledge and the necessary tools for the job can handle the installation.
In case of doubt, you can always seek help from specialists who can quickly make a two-level suspended ceiling from gypsum plasterboard to the hall. Photos of these structures clearly demonstrate their originality and beauty.