Building a frame for the installation of drywall constructions is a quite feasible task without specialists, this requires a little skill and patience.
The main condition for constructing the frame is that it can move a little and not be rigidly fastened around the edges if it is planned to primer the surface at the seams.
For a wall with glued wallpaper, this does not matter, because if cracks appear, they will not be visible. But from the point of view of technology, this, of course, is very bad, because cracks will never lead to good. Many people think about how to attach a profile to a profile. To the basis? A lot of nuances? And this desire is quite true, because even making a small mistake, you have to redo everything.
Before starting work
It is necessary to sketch out on paper the optimal plan for how to fix the profile to the profile so that there is not much waste, and place the frame and drywall in the best way. See under what option the material savings will be the highest. Estimate the size of the door, and if the sheets are larger than necessary, then a freight elevator with a wide door is necessary, because in the worst case sheets of 3 by 1.2 m may not enter the doorways.
You need to calculate the amount of material. To avoid confusion, it should be remembered that UD is a guide profile, it is mounted on walls, it is 28 by 27. CD is the main profile, only these two are enough for walls, but when installing the ceiling frame, you need one more, it plays the role of jumpers between profiles. Calculating the required number of UD profiles for the ceiling is simple, according to the formula K = P / 3, where K is the number of profiles 3 m long, P is the perimeter of the room. If the dimensions are 3100 mm, then, so as not to add 100, you can make 4 m K = P / 4. For the wall, instead of the size of the room, you need a perimeter of the plane.
CD Profile Calculation
When working, it is necessary to take into account the length and width of the room. We divide the latter by the distance between the profiles and select the length depending on the length of the room, if 3 m - profile 3 m; 3.5 - then 4, so that the work goes faster, you can not worry about the leftovers - they will go instead of crabs, we will save on material.
For example, the width of the room is 5600 mm, the length is 3100, and there will be a strong ceiling with a design for the chandelier. Then the step between the profile is 600 mm, 5600 is divided by 600, it turns out 9.3. That is, we need 9 blanks with a profile of 4 m, given the length of the room 3100. In extreme cases, you can buy 10 profiles with a length of 3 m, cut the 10th into 100 mm segments and add to the nine available, but we also need 9 connecting segments, and it is not known whether we will win.
Calculation of other materials
The calculation of the jumpers is carried out according to the same scheme, but taking into account the dimensions of the drywall plate: the distance between the jumpers is 1200 or 600 mm, ideally, so that there are less consumables. To fix the UD profile, we need a 6 x 60 dowel-nails. It is easy to calculate, divide the length and width by a distance of, say, 400 mm, then we need 44 dowels.
We also believe that to attach the bracket we need 2 dowels per 1 element, suspensions - taking into account the pitch of 600 mm - 5 pcs per CD profile, we have 9 of them, which means 5 x 9 = 36, we multiply by 2 and get 72 pcs , add 44 dowels that we need for the profile, and we get 116 pcs.
Many beginners do not know how many self-tapping screws are needed and how to properly attach. Profile to profile is securely attached using 2 screws. To fix the profiles between the brackets, you also need 2 screws, a profile and a connector - 2 pcs., Jumpers with it - 4 pcs., Plus 50-60 pcs. For each sheet, in total about 500 pcs., If you take with stock, given that some may break down and so on.
How to install profiles correctly?
How can I attach a profile to a profile? Installation rules are simple.
In order to qualitatively connect two elements of the frame with each other, you need to fix them with small special metal self-tapping screws - fleas, which are designed for use on these profiles.
When attaching along the edges of the room, it is impossible to connect profiles with each other so that the ceiling can move freely and there are no cracks and defects in the plane.
How to attach a profile to a profile with a T-shaped connection without a crab? It is necessary to bend either the central plane of the profile or the side faces. In the first version, a less reliable fastening is obtained. To connect the side faces, you need to bend them and attach using 2 fleas on each bent shelf to the profile.
For X-shaped bonding of elements, crabs are used. They can also be fixed to the T-joint, having previously removed one face.
How to attach a profile to a profile without a crab? In order to correctly connect the profiles, it is necessary to cut off the edges at the abutment points, if they interfere, and additionally strengthen the fastening with self-tapping screws - small screws called “bugs” or “fleas”.
If we need to lengthen the profile, this can be achieved by joining the profile with an overlap or end-to-end - using a piece of an unnecessary profile element or guide, respectively, fastening them with fleas for reliability.
How to connect profiles?
Many people ask: "How to attach a profile to a profile? What is the difference between screws from each other?" You can fasten the elements with the help of various self-tapping screws, which are called bedbugs, bedbugs, bugs with a drill and tacks. But how can I attach a profile to a profile using self-tapping screws? To do this, you only need to press hard and scroll, marking the point. Therefore, they are not made too long for convenience.
Bed bugs, screws, screws and screws differ only in that they are designed for different profile thicknesses: bugs with a drill - for profiles up to 1 mm, so that you can simultaneously drill a hole and tighten it securely in one go without a drill and changing nozzles on a screwdriver.
How to fasten a profile to a profile with a tack self-tapping screw? This screw is the same bug, but is intended for thick profiles, 1-2 mm. Unlike a small bug, it can be used for profiles, as well as thicker structures, which is very convenient when you buy them with a margin.
Also, many screws of this type have special notches, which prevents unwinding during operation. Additional drilling of a hole is not required, self-tapping screws are twisted by pressing in a profile. The following describes in detail how to attach a profile to a profile.
Profile Installation Instructions
The profile must be connected with 9.5 mm long flecks. At the corners, it is necessary in the structure to remove one side face to the width of the adjacent part, with the addition of 20 mm for a sheet of drywall, so that they are without a gap.
For reliability, in the adjoining profile, you can remove the central face, and the side faces can be bent and fastened to the main profile.
This is a guarantee that the chandelier attached to the frame will not fall over time. But often without this addition, the design is quite durable.
An “ear” mount is used for complex elements where one face is required. For example, to fix a structural element in the form of a rack, vertically to the ceiling, when building a wall from drywall.
Mounting uprights
With this method, all unnecessary faces should be cut out at the junction, leaving the only one necessary for the junction. It should be fastened with a dowel at an angle of 45 degrees, in place of the bend.
Many make the mistake of attaching only one face to the ceiling, without a dowel at the bend. In this case, the stand is held unreliably and will stagger. Additional reinforcement of the face usually does not work - it still moves on a bend.
For building the walls for the first time for the wall from drywall, you also need "ears" for installation, that is, the edges of the profile, without the element itself.
The ends of the excess edges of the profile should be removed, leaving the necessary, the desired length. The profile is used for additional fixation of two elements located in parallel.
How to make a metal frame for the wall?
How to attach profile to profile? A photo where you can view the assembled frame from profiles is given below.
Move on. Where to start and how to fix the profile to the profile for drywall?
The profile is fastened in the same way, but taking into account the verticality of the surface, without jumpers and many reinforcements. To begin with, using the level, the verticality of the future drywall wall is measured. Using a laser level and a pencil, we draw places for attaching a UD profile. If we have only a water level, then you need to pull the thread along the entire wall, after securing it to the dowel-nails.
By manipulating the thread, it is necessary to achieve an even arrangement of the profiles along the perimeter of the wall so that the thread not only does not touch the protrusions and irregularities, but also has enough space for the CD profile.
How to attach a profile to a profile when building a vertical frame? This is done when the UD profile is attached around the perimeter, after which you need to carefully measure everything and then fix the CD using fleas to the UD profile. They should be no closer than 400 mm from each other, after the exact location of the entire frame, the brackets should be carefully nailed onto the dowel-nail.
Marking UD profile for the ceiling
First, a thread is pulled along which a reference level is measured, usually about 10 cm below the base. Then the horizontal level of the future plane is measured, and marks are put.
Then you need to attach a guide profile to the marks, you can’t attach drywall to it later, because the ceiling and walls move relative to each other, depending on humidity and ambient temperature.
Holes need to be made every 50 cm, for 3 m you need 6 pcs. On the reverse side, it is better to stick a sealing tape before installation - it dampens vibration, protects against cracks and creates additional sound insulation.
Then on the wall you need to draw a mark on the extreme hole, then attach the edge to the base and mark the profile so that it is in a horizontal level. On the opposite side, make a hole, again comparing all the marks, and only then thoroughly fasten the profile to the remaining holes.
Marking of other elements during the installation of the frame
We measure the attachment points of the side suspensions - this is a U-shaped bracket that is attached to the base, in this case to the ceiling, and to the profile.
It should also be determined in advance that the distance between the edges of the profiles does not exceed 120 cm, that is, it is possible to make less, but no more than 120 cm from the edge, so we form a fastening line for the main profiles on which the drywall sheets will be held.
It is important at this stage to determine the lighting and wiring diagram so that they do not fall on the frame, because it may not withstand the load of the lamp. It is better to fix them also to the base, and it is important that the fastening points of the lamps and profiles do not intersect.
When fixing suspensions, which in the future will become brackets, it is also important to attach the seal to the flat side and fix it with the skirt down in increments of 1 m.
When is the ceiling frame built? How to attach profile to profile?
Step-by-step instruction:
1. We take the main profile, it is often shorter than the ceiling, so the profiles are interconnected with a special mount that reliably keeps it from bending.
2. In the role of fastening, even the same piece of profile can come up. It’s very convenient to attach a water level to the profile so that you can work without problems on the level, without looking up from the workplace and without making unnecessary movements. The profile is attached to the suspensions using self-tapping screws.
3. Then, after preliminary assembly, crabs are attached to the main profile - special clamps-connectors, which greatly simplify the installation of load-bearing profiles - short transverse guides, they are attached to the main profile.
4. All the other components of the frame are attached to the crabs, depending on the design, because in addition to the plasterboard ceiling, the option of fastening and the wall adjacent to the ceiling is also possible.
Safety precautions
Safety should not be neglected when performing work, use sharp scissors, throw trim profiles under the legs into the work area.
Before attaching the profile to the profile, there must be a separate place for drywall that will not interfere with the profile or work. All parts, profiles and tools should be located in specific places.
The screwdriver must be in good condition, the cords, carrying must lie on the floor and in no case should be below the possible flight path of the cut piece of profile.
The ladder should stand steady. Bottom of the working area and the possible fall of the drywall sheet, you can not move the partner and helpers, you need to be a little out of the way, but not directly under the sheet.