One of the main installation operations in sewing is the insertion of the sleeve. A uniform fit and a beautiful sunset speak of the skill of the seamstress who performs this process. Therefore, it is worthwhile to analyze in more detail all the nuances, because the topic of how to sew in a sleeve will be interesting to beginner needlewomen.
Types of sleeves
Before embroidering a sleeve in a dress or jacket, it is necessary to consider the types of sleeves in detail , because there are several of them and they differ from each other:
- With landing - the length of the ridge is longer than the armhole, usually 5-7 cm.
- With assemblies - with this method, assemblies are the first to be made, and only then the sleeve is inserted. The length of the sleeve is longer by 2-3 centimeters per armhole.
- Without landing - the length of the ridge and armholes are the same, landing does not need to be done, it is important to correctly set the labels. For this type of tailoring you do not need to do a fitting.
- With a gusset - an insert in an axillary zone that clothes did not hamper the movement.
Depending on the type of sleeve that the client wants, select the appropriate workpiece and cut the part. If you use the first or second option, you must definitely try on, because in the process you will have to correct something, each has different parameters that may not exactly match the patterns.
Methods for tapping sleeves
It’s not worth it to sew in the part right away, because you need to do a fitting. This will provide an opportunity to correct various nuances. The fabric differs in its properties and characteristics - one stretches too much, you need to reduce the width, the other is dry, you need to expand the armhole. That is why we first sew the sleeves by hand, without a machine, with large stitches. There are several ways to sew a sleeve using sewing:
- In the finished armhole of the product.
- Circular landing.
- In an open armhole or shirt sleeve.
Each of these methods differs from each other, so it is worth considering them separately.
Insert in the finished armhole
This method involves sewing the finished sleeve. To do this, you need to sew the sleeve parts, then the shoulder and side seams, only after that carry out the subsequent installation. After all the manipulations described above, you can proceed to basting. To do this, turn the product inside out, and the sleeve is visible, insert it inside the armhole, combining the edges of the parts. Then combine the shoulder seam and the central part of the okat, fix it with a pin, then compare the remaining two points of the sleeve with the corresponding notches and evenly distribute the fit.
After this, we proceed to basting - we make 2 loose stitches with a stitch width of not more than 1 centimeter. They need to be laid in such a way that the second line closes the gaps from the first. In this case, while sewing on a typewriter, the landing will remain at the place where you made it.
After trying on, if you do not need to change anything, you can talk about how to sew a sleeve on a typewriter. To do this, you need to deviate 1 cm from the edge of the product. An important point is that the machine does not tighten the seam, because it can burst during socks. Therefore, after sewing, you need to stretch it a little, in which case you will be sure of the quality of your product. For those who are thinking about how to sew a sleeve so that the wrong side is beautiful, there is only one answer - treat the edge with an overlock or a special line on a typewriter.
Circular landing
The second option may seem a little easier, because how to sew a sleeve using the circular fit method implies the following. The bottom line is that you need to lay two lines, and then pull them to the required size. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the size of the okata will be much less than the armhole. Usually, the first stitch is made at a distance of 8 mm from the edge of the sleeve, and the second at 3 mm. Next, you need to combine the three control points and make a seam.
If everything is done correctly, the sleeve will look great on the customer, in case of creases, it is necessary to correct the situation. That is why you should not immediately think about how to sew a sleeve on a typewriter, but use a basting.
Shirt sleeve
This type of insert involves a non-stop fit sleeves. There are no particular difficulties, so do not rack your brains on how to sew a sleeve beautifully. The main point is the combination of control points and a line on a typewriter. The insert is made into an open armhole, only after that it is possible to grind the sleeve-side seam. This option involves sewing without any nuances. But if you have problems, they can be easily solved.
For too dry fabric after sewing you need to make notches, in this case, the front side will look more beautiful. It is also important to do an intermediate ironing after each operation.
On the sleeve you can add:
- patch - sewn onto the elbow, is a decoration element, mainly oval, located on the front part in the elbow area, the edges need to be pre-worked;
- gusset - use if the finished product is a little fettered movement or according to the style it should be, has a diamond shape, may be one or two parts.
How to sew a gusset in a sleeve? Leave in the side seam in the area of sewing in the sleeves an un-sewn section to the size of the part, align the edges from the wrong side, and make an outline. After that, on the front side, check the correctness of the actions performed, if everything is correct, then make the line a typewriter.
Cuff insert
In shirts, cuffs are a must. On a women's blouse, this can be a thin strip that is used to process the edge of the sleeve, and on a men's shirt, it can be cuffs with loops and buttons, as well as the ability to adjust the width.
There are a few points to keep in mind:
- cut the part you need size and shape;
- glue the blank on one side with duplicate material - this will enable the cuff to keep its shape.
After these manipulations, you can make a workpiece - sew parts together. Now it’s worth considering how to sew cuffs into the sleeves. This is not so difficult - the first thing to do is to fold the fold so that the width of the sleeve matches the width of the workpiece. After that, insert a sleeve 1 cm into the inside of the part and make a line along the edge so that everything is sewn from the wrong side as well. When the cuffs are attached, the finishing stitch remains - you need to do it 5 mm below the first in a circle. Now make loops and sew buttons. At this stage, you can consider the shirt or blouse complete.