Many girls dream of learning to sew, but abandon their idea. Incomprehensible calculations, taking a huge number of measurements from a figure and long construction patterns for not everyone can do.
But there are such models of clothes, the details of which can be drawn directly on the fabric, and for assembly you will need to make several seams on the sewing machine. For example, a dress with a sleeve like "bat". This is a very interesting model, the idea of which was borrowed from the Japanese kimono. Such a cut came into life widely from the high fashion catwalks in the 70-80s and has since been considered a classic. And this means that you can sew a trendy dress without special knowledge and experience of the cutter.
Measurement for dress
For this model, there are two ways to build parts directly on the fabric. But first you need to understand a few points:
- the dress pattern "bat" from knitwear and dress fabric are no different;
- the front shelf and back of the dress are identical;
- the details have no tucks for the chest, since the sleeve model assumes a free fit in the armpit area, where the fabric itself fits into a beautiful drapery.
The first method involves taking the following measurements:
- chest girth;
- hip girth;
- chest height;
- height from shoulder to waist;
- the length of the sleeve;
- length of the product.
No desire or ability to measure a figure? This is not a reason to abandon the venture, since you can sew a bat dress without measurements. To do this, you need a regular t-shirt, suitable in size.
Building parts by standards
How to build a pattern for a dress "bat" immediately on the fabric? Stages:
- the canvas is folded four times;
- draw a line at the height of the chest from the folded angle - this will be the height of the armhole;
- chest girth is measured on the received line;
- at the height of the waist + 20 cm, draw a line on which ¼ hip circumference is noted;
- at the neck from the corner, measure the length of the sleeve + 7 cm - this will be the boundary of the sleeve;
- a neckline is cut out 7 cm wide, the edge of which is raised by 1.5 cm;
- from the obtained point, lower the line of the sleeve so that the edge of the cuff was lowered 7 cm from the upper bend;
- connect the points ¼ of the girths of the chest and hips and draw a smooth line of the lower cut of the sleeve so that the cuff remains at a width of 9 cm.
All cut details can be cut and stitched.
Building parts with a t-shirt
The option with a cut for a T-shirt is suitable if the product is sewn from knitwear. The dress pattern "bat" is constructed as follows:
- the canvas is folded four times;
- the T-shirt is folded in half and applied to the laid out fabric so that the corner of the folded fabric is near the neck;
- the t-shirt is circled and removed;
- the shoulder section is extended by the desired amount;
- the lower section of the sleeve is connected in a smooth line with the side cut;
- outline the neckline.
This option can also be used for dressing canvases, only in this case it will be necessary to lay the t-shirt not fold into a fold, but by 5-6 cm from the fold of the fabric. It will also be necessary to increase the size of the armhole. This is in order to make the dress not so close to the body, which is very important, because the dress paintings will look more beautiful with a free silhouette.
Sewing recommendations
There is one little trick that seamstresses use when sewing from knitwear. The dress pattern "bat" should be built on the fabric only after the decathing of the canvas. This means that a piece of fabric must be stretched and ironed. It’s best to test a small 10 by 10 cm section first and see how it deforms. This will make it possible to avoid shrinkage of the finished product. In addition, it will be possible to determine the need for decanting the entire canvas using the test section, since it is mandatory for natural fibers, but not for synthetics.
It is easiest for beginners to work with knitwear. The main thing is to purchase a knitting needle for the sewing machine and pick up a fabric that will not crumble. How to sew from knitwear? The dress pattern "bat" is immediately built on the canvas, the details are cut out with a small allowance of 0.5-0.7 cm. For fabrics such as diving, lacoste, oil, jersey and velor, a normal machine line is enough.
Things are slightly different with dress tissues. For example, for satin, silk and staple, zigzag or overlock stitching is required. At the same time, 0.7-1 cm should be left for the allowance so that the thin threads of the fabric do not disperse during wear.