Fashion steps forward day after day, the style and style of women's dresses is changing. New models are a little embellished, but the basis of the pattern remains the same.
Nowadays, it’s quite difficult to look irresistible and have in your wardrobe the thing that will only be with you, as the shops are full of monotonous styles of dresses. But there is a way out of this situation - to sew on your own the model you like from a fabric as you like. And this thing will be in a single copy, that is, you definitely will not meet a girl in the same dress and will not get into an awkward situation.
Many are sure that this is impossible, but this opinion is erroneous. There is no difficulty to create your own wardrobe, and accordingly save a bunch of money spent on exclusive fashion items.
Patterns of dresses are known only in two versions - these are simple and complex models. It is best for beginners to start sewing with simple things. First of all, they can be worn both daily and for any celebration. Secondly, they will never go out of style. Simple patterns of dresses for beginners can be found in our article.
Rules for taking measurements
Starting to create a pattern, you need to remove the dimensions from the model.
- Half neck circumference. It is necessary to measure the base of the neck and record the size of half the measured measure. That is, if you get 36 cm, then you need to record 18 cm.
- Half chest circumference. We measure by the protruding parts of the shoulder blades and the high part of the chest. This measurement is responsible for the size of your figure. It is also necessary to record half.
- Waist, half girth. It is necessary to measure the narrowest place at the waist, we also write half the size obtained.
- Hips, half girth. Measured by prominent buttock points. It is worth considering the bulge of the abdomen. The measure is also recorded by half of the result.
- We measure the height of the back to the waistline. We begin the measurement from the seventh cervical vertebra, it is noticeable by the protrusion, to the waist line. In this case, the measurement is recorded completely.
- The width of the back. From the protruding points of the shoulder blades, we measure the width of the back, from one axillary zone to another. As a measure, half of the result is recorded.
- We measure the front height to the waistline. On the protruding point of the chest, starting from the base of the neck at the shoulder, to the waistline. Full measure is recorded.
- Chest height. We put the edge of the centimeter tape at the base of the neck and measure the height to the highest point of the chest. We write the measurement completely.
- The center point of the chest. We measure horizontally between two high points of the chest. The measure is recorded by half the result.
- Determine the length of the shoulder. Measured from the base of the neck to the joint of the shoulder. Write down the entirety.
- Girth of the hand. It is necessary to measure the circumference of the arm near the armpit. The measure is fully accounted for.
- Girth of the wrist. The wrist joint is measured around the circumference. The measure is fully used.
- We measure the length of the sleeve to the elbow. Measured starting from the joint on the shoulder and lowered to the elbow. We record the measure completely.
- The length of the sleeve. It is necessary to measure, also starting from the joint on the shoulder and descending to the hand. The measure is fully used.
- Determine the length of the product. It is necessary to measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the desired finished length. The measure is also used fully.
- Allowances for loose fit:
- Chest line - 5 cm.
- Waist - 1 cm.
- Hip - 2 cm.
Building patterns
To build a pattern of dresses for beginners, you need to use a large sheet of paper. If there is no such, then you can take unnecessary residues from the wallpaper.
On the left, postpone the length of your dress, for the convenience of work, step back a couple of centimeters from the edge. Mark the deferred length with points A (top) and H (bottom). To the right of points A and H, draw perpendicular lines.
Define the width of the dress pattern
To do this, it is necessary to postpone the measure “half-circumference of the chest” from point A to the right side and plus an increase in the chest line of 5 cm, put point B. Put the same measure from point H in the direction to the right and get point H1, connect points B and H1 with a straight line . You should end up with a rectangle.
Measure the size of the length of the back to the waist
It is necessary to measure the size from point A downward to the waist of the back length, adding half a centimeter, and mark point T. From the obtained point, draw a perpendicular to the right to line B and H1 and mark the intersection with point T1.
Determine the line of the hips
We measure from the point T in the downward direction half the measure "to the waist of the back length" and mark point B. Also from the obtained point draw a perpendicular to the right to line B and H1, the intersection point is denoted by B1.
Determine the width of the back
From point A in the direction to the right, we measure the measure of "back width" + an increase along the back line of 1.5 centimeters and put the point A1. From it we draw down a perpendicular line of arbitrary length.
We measure the width of the armhole
It is necessary to measure the "half-circumference of the chest" divided into 4 parts + 0.5 cm, put the result aside to the right of point A1 and put the point A2. From point A2 we draw down a perpendicular line of arbitrary length.
We determine the neck cut from the back
We divide the “half-neck" measure into three parts and add half a centimeter, put the result aside from point A to the right, mark it with point A3. Next, we measure the “half neck circumference” measure by 10 parts plus 0.8 cm and measure the result obtained from point A3 upwards, we get point A4. The angle formed at point A3 must be divided in half by a straight line and the result should be postponed: divide the half-circumference of the neck by 10 and minus 0.3 cm, we get the point A5. Next, connect the obtained points A4, A5 and A. with a smooth line.
Build a shoulder section
For high shoulders, it is necessary to postpone 1.5 cm from point A1, for normal shoulders 2.5 cm, sloping - 3.5 cm, mark point P. Connect points A4 and P. Connect shoulder length plus tuck 2 cm from point A4, put the point P1. On the obtained segment A4P1, we postpone 4 cm from the A4 point and mark it with the O point. From the received point we measure 8 cm downwards and mark it with the O1 point and to the right of the O 2 cm point, mark it with the O2 point. Connect the points O1 and O2. Through point O2, we postpone from the point O1 a size equal to the length of the segment OO1 - 8 cm, mark the point O3. This is necessary so that the tucks on the dress are equal. Point O3 and P1 are connected by a straight line.
Determine the depth of the armhole
Divide the half-circumference of the chest into 4 parts plus 7 cm, measure the result from the point P in the downward direction, mark point G. Through this point we draw a horizontal line to the right and left sides. At the intersection with the line B and H1, mark the point G3, with the line of the armhole - G2, and at the intersection with the line A and H we set the point G1.
Back, armhole cut
The distance from point P to G is divided into three parts and plus 2 cm, we measure the result from point G in the upward direction, mark it with point P2. We divide the "armhole width" measure by 10 and +1.5 cm, set the result aside from point , dividing the angle in half, mark point P3. The segment GG2 is divided into 2 parts and marked with a point G4. Next, connect the points P1, P2, P3, G4 with a curved line.
Armhole, cut front half
We divide the measure "half-circumference of the chest" into 4 parts plus 5 cm, set the result aside from point G2 in the upward direction and mark it with point P4. Divide the half-circumference of the chest by 10, postpone the result from point P4 towards the left and mark it with point P5. We divide the G2P4 segment by 3 and measure the result from the G2 point in the upward direction. We connect the points P5 and P6 between each other with a dashed line, divide it into two parts and in the direction to the right, observing a right angle, measure 1 cm and mark point 1. We divide the angle from point G2 in half and measure the line equal to a tenth of the measurement “armhole width" + 0.8 cm, mark point P7. The resulting points P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 are connected by a curved line.
Cut neck front
We divide in half the measure "half-circumference" of +1.5 cm, mark it on the pattern from point G3 in the upward direction and mark it with point B1. We measure exactly the same distance from the point G2 in the upward direction and mark the point B2. The resulting points B1, B2 are interconnected. We divide the "half-neck" measure into three and +0.5 cm, measure from the point B1 the direction to the left and mark with point B3. We divide the same measure “half neck circumference” into three and +2 cm, measure downward from point B1 and mark point B4. We connect the obtained points and divide the segment into 2 parts. We again take the measure “half neck circumference” +1 cm and draw a straight line along the division point of the segment B3 and B4 from the center point B1, we get the point B5. We connect the points B3, B5, B4 with a curved line, we get the neckline of the front pattern.
Center and chest height
We use the size of the center of the chest, measure it from the point G3 towards the left, we get the point G6. From the obtained point, draw a line intersecting with the line B1B2. At the intersection, we get point B6. From it, in the downward direction, measure the height of the chest, we get the point G7.
Tuck construction, types
Shoulder and chest tuck. Why are tucks necessary on the chest of a product? The thing is that the tucks on the chest on the dress are placed so that the dress has a shape in the place of the convex chest, and therefore they began to be called lapel. They can have their origin from a lateral cut, shoulder, from the neck or from the armhole. The place of their beginning depends on the chosen dress model and, naturally, on the volume of the chest. Their direction is always only towards the center of the chest, this should be taken into account when constructing the pattern.
We measure from the point B6 in the downward direction 1 cm and mark with the point B7. We connect B3 and B7. Dotted line connect B7 and P5. By measuring the segment B7B3 minus 0.3 cm, we measure the result from P5 in the direction to the right and get point B8.
We measure the segment B7G7 from point G7 through the resulting point B8 and put B9. Connect P5 and B9.
Side seam, define the line
In the direction to the right, we measure from the third part of the measurement “the width of the armhole", mark the point G5. AND we draw a line vertically through it. At the intersection on the armhole line, we mark the point P, on the waist line - the point T2, the hips - B2, and the bottom - H2.
Tucks on the dress on the back along the waistline
Building on. The tucks located at the waist of the dress are called the waist tucks. They are necessary to create a fit dress at the waist. They can be located both on the whole back or front part, or on individual stitched parts, in these cases they are detachable, in addition, the darts can be located on the cut-out line of the armhole. Many people use tucks on waist products, whether it be a skirt or trousers, they are also referred to as waist tucks.
The measure "half waist" +1 cm on freedom of fit minus the size across the width of the dress (in our case this is the TT1 line) - this will give us the width of the tuck on the dress.
Hip line
To measure "half hips" +2 cm to fit freely minus the width of the dress B1B along the hips. Divide the result into 2 parts, one of which is used on the front half, the second on the back of the product. Measures the result from point B2 to the right and left and mark it with points B3 and B4. We mark the same distance from point T2 in two directions along a horizontal line and put points T3, T4. Connect point P with T4 and T3. Dotted line connect T3, B4, and B3, T4. To the side of the dividing points, measure half a centimeter and connect with the curved line and points T4, B3 and the second side B4, T3.
Waist line on the front half
To measure "front waist length" we add 0.5 cm and postpone the result from point B1 in the downward direction, we get the point T5. Points T4, T5 are connected by a curved line. Measure the segment T5 T1 and set it aside from point B1 in a downward direction, we get point B5. Point B5 and point B3 are connected by a curved line.
Tucks on the back
Divide the G1G segment in half and mark the middle of the segment with the G8 point. From it, in the downward direction, lower the perpendicular and at the intersection with the line of the hips put point B6, and with the waist line - T6. From point T6, it is necessary to postpone half the width of the back tuck to the right and left, marking with points T7, T8. After that, measure from the point G8 downwards 1 cm and connect with the point T7, upwards from the point B6 3 cm and connect with the point T8.
Tucks on the front half
Draw a straight vertical line from point G6 in a downward direction to the thigh line. The point on the waistline, where it is crossed by a vertical line, is designated T9, on the hips - B7. We postpone from the point T9 half the width of the front tuck and mark it with points T10, T11. From B7 in the upward direction we measure 4 cm and connect this point with T11, and from G7 down 4 cm and connect the resulting point with T10.
Bottom line of the front half
From points B4 and B3 from the thigh line, draw perpendicular lines to the bottom line and mark them with points H4, H3. Remember: if your dress expands to the bottom, from the received points you need to postpone segments to the right and left, equal from 3 cm to 7 cm, and connect them with B4, B3. From point H1 down, measure the length of the segment T5T1 and mark with point H5. It remains to connect the obtained points H5 and H3.
This is just the foundation of a simple dress, thanks to which you can simulate your exclusive model. Tucks will become assistants. How to make tucks on a dress? Let's consider them in more detail.
Variety of tucks on a dress
A tuck is the part of the fabric that needs to be removed to emphasize the shape and a smooth transition from one convex zone to another.
Tucks on the dress are found in two main types. The first option is tucks with one vertex, which have the appearance of a triangle, while their shape will never change, you can only change the size and depth. The wide base of the tuck triangle is always located on the convex zone, for example, this is the female breast or the convex line of the thigh. The second option is tucks with two peaks. They have the form of two folded triangles, while they have one vertex. Two tops are used in cases with integral parts of the back and front of the product, located on the waist line.
Embossed tucks on the dress perfectly emphasize the chest. They support it from below, the most optimal option for using them in clothes is a dense fabric. More breasts - and therefore more convexity must be given to the tuck. To the center of the chest, the pattern should be the most convex part. Relief types of tucks on the dress are located both vertically on the product, and can be made from the armpit. This will give your breast splendor and accuracy.
The lateral tuck on the dress is called the chest or tuck along the chest line. It is located more often on the waist in front and behind the product - dresses. There are also models with tucks that have a beginning from the side seam. Tucks are placed on the dress at the same distance from the center of the front of the dress and two from the center of the back of the product.
How to make tucks on a finished dress?
If the dress you bought does not sit well on you or you want to further emphasize your figure, then you can make auxiliary tucks on the finished product. To do this, put on your dress, look in front of the mirror exactly where you want to remove the excess fabric, and mark the place of the tuck with soap on the wrong side. Observe symmetry: if you remove the excess on the right, then on the left you need to remove the same amount of fabric in the tuck.
Sweep the intended tucks and try on the product. The first time did not work? Try a few times and then you will find the exact places of the excess tissue. If there is no desire and ability to remake yourself, contact a clothing repair company for help.