It is preferable to plant all berry bushes in late summer - early autumn, and currants are no exception. Her landing is also optimal during this period. If, for some reason, the currant planting material was purchased in a later period, the planting will depend on weather conditions. If, according to weather forecasts, early frosts are expected, then it will be more correct to plant the planting material in a horizontal position until spring and plant it in the spring. If the autumn is warm, then you can plant currants in the first decade of October.
The currant root system continues to grow until late autumn. In this case, after planting, the soil under the currant must be mulched. Mulch can be tops from tomatoes, zucchini, chopped weeds, etc. If the planting of currants is postponed until spring, the planting pit should be prepared in the fall.
Before planting, the material must be soaked in water (put in water) for about three hours so that the root system is saturated with moisture. Currants are planted obliquely. This applies to a bush with several stems, and to a thin twig. When planting currants, be sure to deepen it on the bottom three buds. The aerial part should also be three kidneys, the rest must be cut using a well-sharpened secateurs.
Trimming the aerial part is necessary so that the currant bush does not age prematurely. In the spring, the leaves will begin to open, and the root system, damaged during the transplant, may not be able to cope with the nutrition of the aerial part, if pruning was not performed in the fall. With the uncircumcised aerial part, all nutritious juices rush to the apical kidney, and no pads (fouling branches) form on the branch, therefore, the branch is exposed, the leaves on it will only be at the apex. Without pruning the aerial parts when
planting, the bush will begin to age in the first year.
An inclined landing of currants is necessary in order to quickly form new shoots from those buds that have been buried. If you plant a bush of currant vertically, then new shoots can be expected for a long time, while the yield on the planted bush will be small.
If the black currant is planted correctly, obliquely, two new twigs will form on each stalk the following year. To achieve greater branching of young branches, they need to be removed
apical kidneys. In this case, the two buds closest to the place of nipping will sprout. That is, in the autumn you need to shorten the lateral branches that have grown over the summer, leaving three buds on each. In this way, a currant bush is formed with many branches on each shoot.
If there is a need to propagate currants, then in spring you can pin the lower branches to the soil. But the top of the branch must be brought to the surface. To accelerate root formation, you can make scratches on the bark of the branch and pour it with a solution of the root-forming agent (for example, heteroauxin or root). Sprinkle moist soil on top. You can cover with a film the place of pinning. After a certain time, young shoots from buds in the soil will appear. Throughout the season, you need to monitor the soil moisture in the place where young shoots grow. In the spring of next year, young growth will need to be divided and planted in a permanent place.
Proper planting of currants is the key to excellent harvests in the future.