As the memoirs of contemporaries testify, the famous English writer Arthur Conan Doyle was very fond of tweed. The fabric, traditionally made in Scotland, pleased him so much that he “gave” a cap from this material to his character - Sherlock Holmes. There are only a few references to this in the book, but today no one can even imagine a great detective dressed in clothes made of another fabric.
Costume book illustrators and filmmakers represent an
English detective in a coat and tweed cap. This is how the Soviet Sherlock Holmes-Livanov is dressed, as well as his foreign colleagues performed by Robert Downey Jr. and Benedict Cumberbatch.
What is this fabric?
Modern tweed is a woolen fabric woven from threads painted in different colors that form a relief surface. The national pride of the Scots, along with the traditional kilt (men's plaid skirt) and whiskey, is tweed. Today, this traditional Scottish material is available in a wide variety of colors and several density options. It is worth mentioning the fact that this is the only material in the world produced from local raw materials using genuine national technology on a commercial scale. The most recognizable drawings decorating this material are the herringbone, front sight and cage.
In addition, tweed - the fabric is durable, very soft and warm, and besides, it does not crease. Initially, men's warm jackets were sewn from tweed for hunting, and then in the classic fashion it was used for sewing men's and women's suits, coats and hats. Modern designers have found many other options for its use and make bags, shoes and even handkerchiefs from this fabric.
Tweed fabric: description and specifications
As already mentioned, this material is made from processed and specially dyed untwisted thick yarn obtained from high-quality sheep wool. In the manufacturing process, wool fibers are intertwined diagonally, forming a twill fabric structure. The color of the tweed is quite motley and is obtained by mixing multicolored threads dyed in discreet natural colors. Tweed is a fabric, in the manufacture of which the maximum number of yarn colors used can reach six.
Who invented it?
At the beginning of the 19th century, in the Scottish town of Harris, on the island of Lewis, they first started making tweed. At that time it was heavy and dense, thick and rough material, from which clothes suitable for British weather conditions were made, which reliably protected from wind, cold and rain. For dyeing yarn used natural natural dyes of soft colors. In those days, tweed was used for tailoring men's suits and hunting jackets.
The fabric, the reviews of that time so testify, was so rough and scratchy that for the trousers a lining was made specially from another material so as not to irritate the skin. Over time, production technology has improved, and tweed has become an increasingly thin, elastic and soft material.
Why is she called that?
Modern researchers speak of two possible variants of the origin of the name of this Scottish fabric from wool. According to one version, the material got its name in honor of the Tweed River, flowing along the border between Scotland and England. According to the second version, the illegible and poorly readable handwriting of one of the Scottish suppliers contributed to the fact that the London merchant read “tweed” instead of “tweel” and sent a batch of fabric with the same name for sale. It is quite interesting that tweed, fabric expressing status, and individual style, and the ubiquitous jeans - the phenomenon of mass culture, belong to the class of twill - materials with a diagonal weave of fibers.
Main types
Trying to adapt to the requirements of an ever-changing fashion, tweed noticeably changed and became very diverse:
The fattest, warmest and most expensive look is harris. It is also called English tweed. The fabric, the composition of which and the manufacturing methods have remained unchanged since the 19th century. As at that time, the yarn for it is dyed only with natural dyes, it is produced manually in Scotland using old looms.
Chevyot is considered the best material for tailoring a coat. They are made from the wool of a sheep breed called "Cheviot" and get a dense and coarse tweed fabric. The price for it is quite high, but, according to experts, such a coat will last more than a dozen years and at the same time it will not lose its appearance and qualities.
A very warm and heavy bedford cord with a wave-like pattern is used in the manufacture of winter hunting suits and jackets.
For sewing jackets and suits for hunting, as well as everyday vests, medium-density material is used - donegal.
Thicker tracksuits and coats are sewn from thick and heavy fabric - the so-called carpet-tweed, painted in a brownish-olive shade.
Pepita, or shepherd’s cage, is a type of tweed fabric used in the tailoring of jackets in an informal style.
One can hardly name a more recognizable tweed pattern than a Christmas tree. In its classical form, it is performed on medium-density fabric in brownish-yellow colors. In the modern interpretation of this figure, other color combinations are also used.
"Men's" fabric
In his autobiographical book, Remembering Windsor, former King Edward VII (Duke of Windsor) says that tweed fabric is also loved by British rulers such as Edward VII and George V.
The Norfolk jacket intended for hunting became the first popular item of men's wardrobe from this material. Paul Poiret introduced tweed jackets into European (in particular French) men's fashion . The English classic tweed jacket for daily use was created much later and was sewn from brownish-green fabric. Over time, suits made of this material became popular among creative and scientific intelligentsia, youth and students.
Tweed and Women's Fashion
Thanks to the inimitable Coco Chanel, the tweed fabric and costumes from it fell into women's fashion. It was she who slightly changed the composition of the fabric, adding cotton to it, and also developed a model of a fitted jacket without a collar. European fashionistas did not immediately accept the new look of the costume, but overseas, in the United States of America, they took it with a bang. Working and busy Americans liked a simple and elegant suit. Many famous and popular ladies from different times, such as Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy, Kate Moss and Lady Gaga, are happy to go in tweed suits. Tweed reached the peak of its first wave of popularity in 1966, and in 1980 went out of fashion and was almost forgotten until 2007. Starting from the fashionable autumn-winter shows of 2013-2014, various types of clothing made from tweed fabrics are present in most collections.
Issue price
Today it is quite simple to purchase tweed fabric, the description and characteristics of which were given above. It is worth remembering that the price of this material depends on the quality of the wool itself, its processing technology and, of course, on the manufacturer.
We will not dwell on 100% synthetic Chinese fabric called “tweed”, since it has nothing to do with real tweed. Qualitative material is produced only from natural components: wool with a small amount of silk or cotton in the composition.
Thin tweed fabric for sewing dresses and suits can be bought in Moscow at a price of 500-600 rubles per meter. Thicker and denser costume material will cost from 1300-1400, for a coat - from 2000 rubles and more.
Customer reviews
If you are thinking about buying or making a suit of yourself from an expensive fabric such as tweed, making the right decision will probably help you from the feedback of those who already wear tweed clothes. Most buyers note the main drawback, in their opinion, is the high price of both tweed fabric and products made of it. In addition, there are some features in the care of tweed things, somewhat complicating the lives of their owners.
First of all, only hand wash in special detergents intended for wool, as well as drying of washed clothes in a horizontal position, is allowed. However, tweed suits, dresses and jackets had more advantages than disadvantages. Here is some of them:
- things practically do not crease;
- tactilely very pleasant and comfortable to wear;
- even with constant wear, the clothes do not look shabby or worn.
Many of the owners of tweed wardrobe items are thinking about buying any more stuff from this natural and beautiful material.