The traditions of the Chechen people are peculiar and very interesting. The culture is very original and peculiar, rooted in the deep past. Customs, principles of life - all this is manifested in national clothes, which to this day have been preserved almost in their original form.
Old men's Chechen costume
National Chechen costume always had two components: trousers tapering downwards and half-caftan (beshmet). Clothing was made from materials that did not constrain movements. Half-caftan tightly wrapped around the torso and fastened with buttons in the form of woven knots, which were made of laces. The length of the beshmet was 10 cm above the knees. The sleeves of the half-caftan narrowed to the ends, and the cuffs were decorated with buttons in the form of knots.
Below the waist, the beshmet expanded. A burka was worn on top. This is a cape with narrowed shoulders and expanding downward. Burka protected from rains, heat and wind. And at night it was perfectly used as a blanket.
Additions to the traditional men's costume
A traditional men's suit has always been complemented by a hat and shoes. By tradition, ordinary Chechens wore a cone-shaped hat on their heads, which was made of sheepskin. And for the rich, a hat was sewn from the skin of a Bukhara ram. In summer, all Chechens wore felt hats.
Legs were worn in light leather knee-high boots. Pants tucked in. Wealthy Chechens wore dudes. These are soft men's shoes without heels. Legs were pulled over the trousers. This is a specific type of shoe that covers the lower legs without a foot. The legs were tied at the top with straps.
Festive men's suit
Festive Chechen costumes included a Circassian costume. Clothes were made of dense cotton fabric, and for rich people - from satin, silk, wool. Since not all men had lower shirts, beshmets were worn on a naked body. Later, holiday costumes underwent changes.
Already from the end of the 19th century, when multiply-charged rifles appeared, gas boxes (pockets) lost their purpose. And now this is only part of the costume. The rest of the holiday beshmet was no different from the old.
Cherkessk
Old festive beshmets included a Circassian worn over a caftan. The cut was the same. Circassia was sewn of the best cloth, without a collar and fastened at the waist. The sleeves were longer than the hands, so they were unbent. Small pockets (gas pockets) were sewn on the front in Cherkessk.
Wooden tubules were laid in them, in which sleeves for firearms were stored. Circassia was worn only fastened and girded with a narrow belt decorated with plates. Weapons were hung on it (dagger, checker, gun).
Women's Chechen costume
Chechen women wore more colorful clothes than men. Dresses were of various models, colors and were sewn from different materials. By the side, it was possible to determine the social status and age of the woman. The traditional outfit included four elements:
- lower and upper dresses (in the form of a tunic);
- belt;
- handkerchief.
The length of the tunic reached the ankles. The dress was made of plain light material. The tunic sleeves were straight and long, covering the tassels. A small incision was made on the chest of the dress. The collar was upright, small and fastened with a button. The tunic was worn over wide pants, gathered at the bottom in a ruffle. The outfit was complemented by a hat.
In the past, a short caftan was included in the national Chechen costume. Sometimes with a standing collar. Kaftanchik tightly pulled the figure. The attribute of clothes made of velvet, heavy silk or cloth was sewed. But over time, he disappeared from everyday life and only the bib remained.
He was sewn on the lower tunic. This was a decoration that was made to order. Bibs were made of silver, sometimes covered with gold. Decorated with colored stones. Over time, the bibs became clasps on the bottom dress. The belt was most often made to order from silver. And it was a very valuable piece of costume. The silver belt could be covered with gold, decorated with stones and various engraving.
Chechen women wore a second, top dress (oversized), which resembled a wrap or dressing gown. It was worn on top of the lower tunic. It was revealed to the waist so that the bibs were visible. At the waist, the upper dress was fastened with small hooks. As a result, the female figure was tight and emphasized. The upper dress was made of brocade, velvet, satin or cloth. Allowed a variety of styles, materials and colors. The upper dress was adorned with braid, gold embroideries, pleats and ruffles.
The national Chechen costume was complemented by shoes. She was sewn from soft morocco. There was a seam on the sole. Under the shoes were worn morocco socks. The second option is low-heeled shoes. These shoes had solid soles, but no backs.
Women's party costume
Festive women's costumes were sewn, like everyday ones. But with a few changes. For example, the bottom of the pants was lined with silk. The sleeves were much longer and even reached the floor.
Women's wedding suit
Chechen wedding dresses didn’t open too much, never sewn with frank cutouts. The dress consisted of a lower shirt with a mandatory standing collar. Top dress was worn on top, but not magnificent. But richly embroidered and with decorations.
Chechen wedding dresses had an integral part - a cut in the front. Thanks to him, the impression was made that the dress looked like two petals. The outfit was complemented by a chic silver belt. A luxurious shawl decorated with lace was worn over her head.
Changes in Chechen costumes
Women's traditional clothes have not changed. But the traditional national Chechen costume in modern times has undergone some changes. In the 20th century, a winter coat appeared, which began to replace the cloak. The coat became double-breasted, with a hem below the knees and a standing collar. It is fastened on the buttons made of belts and threaded in cord loops.
Breeches are widely used. And soon began to be considered a national attribute of the costume. In the 1920s, beshmet began to be replaced by Caucasian shirts - long and straight. With wide, beveled at the brushes sleeves, with fasteners on buttons.
Interesting facts about the traditions of the Chechen people
Chechen men's clothing was mostly sewn in dark colors. White was a sign of wealth. Only beshmets stood out as a bright spot, since their color represented a contrast with other components of the costume. But touching the hat meant a mortal insult to the owner of the headgear.
Older men wore insulated and longer beshmets. Some were quilted on a thin layer of cotton or wool. The traditional outfit was both a weekend and home clothes. In the Cossack troops, caftans had the status of form.
According to the tradition of the Chechen people, women in cold weather could not wear warm clothes. All that was allowed was to throw a scarf over his shoulders or put on a second dress. Women could go out only in a headdress. The scarf was a symbol of chastity, social power and the guarantor of sacred purity.
Jewelry emphasized belonging to a particular class. Young women and girls wore long scarves and shawls. And the elderly first put on a cap (bag), in which the hair was removed. And then they threw a large scarf decorated with fringe on top.
The most beautiful belts were family jewels and passed down through generations. They were presented to the girls by their mothers before the wedding. Top dresses were worn only by young people. For adult (married) women, it was considered too bright, and they could wear it only in solemn occasions.
If the family was under the persecution of blood feud, then the clothes were worn black. A stand-up collar of a female wedding dress symbolized modesty and was an obligatory attribute.