It’s easy to buy clothes for a slender girl with beautiful shapes, but owners of curvaceous forms have a little harder, because it’s not so easy to buy stylish fashionable outfits of their size. This is very disappointing for girls and women whose clothing size is over 50. Below we will consider the most popular and interesting options for patterns of summer dresses in 54 sizes.
Taking measurements
The very first step in the design of any product that will be sewn with one's own hands is taking measurements. To feel comfortable and comfortable in the dress, you need to take the correct body position during measurement. It is important not to reduce your size on purpose. For example, if there is a convex belly, then it is not worth it to retract. If this is done, then when using it turns out that the product is too narrow.
For step-by-step construction of a pattern of a dress of 54 sizes, standard values will be taken. For the addition, they take those numbers that are characteristic of this particular option. The increase in volume in the chest girth will be 3 cm, and a half-centimeter is added to the backrest scheme, 1 cm in the armhole part, and one and a half centimeters in front of the dress.
The following parameters are traditional parameters for creating a dress pattern of 54 sizes:
- Product length - 1 m.
- The width of the back (hereinafter referred to as SH) is 38 cm (half - 19 cm).
- The height of the sprout, which is determined by the articulation of the shoulder level with the neck to the waist line on the back is 41 cm.
- The length from the point of the back to the waistline, the distance of which is determined from the beginning of the seventh vertebra of the neck to the Dts waist is 39 cm.
- Girth at the base of the neck - 38 cm.
- The circumference of the chest itself is 108 cm.
- The circumference of the trunk above the chest is 98 cm.
- Waist circumference - 94 cm.
- Hips in the most voluminous part - 120 cm.
- The depth of the dress armhole, which is calculated from the seventh vertebra of the neck to the beginning of the armhole, is 21 cm.
- The height of the shoulder from the waist to the back is 36 cm.
- Armhole width - 12 cm.
- The value of the tuck solution, which is measured from the initial part of the chest to the maximum protruding gap, is 12 cm.
- The height of the chest area is 29.5 cm.
- The height of the widest thigh area is 20 cm.
- Shoulder length - 13 cm.
- The length of the front to the waist level (hereinafter Accident) is 44 cm.
- The length of the shoulder of the front to the waist is 39 cm.
- The gap between the most prominent points of the chest is 22 cm.
- Sleeve length - 59 cm.
- Arm circumference - 34 cm.
- Wrist girth - 19 cm.
- The width of the front part, which is measured by the protrusions of the chest - 46 cm.
After taking measurements to build a dress pattern of size 54, you can check the correctness of this procedure: Ws + Spread + two armhole widths = 108 cm. When substituting the measured values, it turns out:
38 + 46 + 12 * 2 = 108 cm.
In order to ensure sufficient fitting of the dress according to the figure, an additional increase in the spacious presence on the body should be made - 3 cm. It turns out that the semi-girth is 57 cm.
In order to independently carry out a pattern of a simple dress of size 54, certain actions should be performed sequentially. First, a backrest scheme is built, then the front part.
Calculation and drawing of the back
The construction of a pattern of a dress of size 54 should start from the point (hereinafter t.) A, which is located at a distance of about 15 cm from the border of the sheet. Then the vertical and the horizontal fall from it. On the vertical line, T.N is noted with a distance of 100 cm.
The depth of the armhole in the product is noted by laying on the main horizontal t.G. Also, to ensure freedom of fit, 5 mm should be added.
AH is obtained as the sum of 21 cm and 0.5 cm.
The back length is likewise postponed, according to the dimensions AT = 39 cm.
Then the hip line is examined and applied. To do this, put 20 cm from T.T. and mark T.L.
Build Width
Now it follows from the drawn points to draw straight lines in the horizontal direction and you can begin to build the backrest horizontally.
From T. G, half the size of the width is laid aside and T. G1 is marked. The value of the GG1 segment is the sum of 19 cm and 0.5 cm. From this point, verticals are drawn in each direction to build T.V and T1.
For the width of the armhole, the sum of 6 cm and 0.5 cm from T.G1 is postponed. To design the sides of the product, it follows from T.G2 to draw a perpendicular segment. At the intersection with the rest of the lines, T2, L1, H1, respectively, are marked. Now you should make a cutout of the armhole of the throat of the back. For this, a segment is constructed
AA1 = 19: 3 + 1 = 7.3 cm,
where 19 is 1/3 of half the neck girth measure.
From the new T.A1, the difference between the height of the sprout and the measurement of the length of the back of A1A2 is postponed, this is the difference of 41 cm and 39 cm. T.A and A2 are connected by a line that runs smoothly and correctly. It turns out a beautiful neckline.
Shoulder alignment
Now you can draw a shoulder: from T.T1 36 cm of shoulder height are postponed and T.P. In addition, another point is being built for the design of the armhole. G1V should be divided into 3 identical parts; From it lead an arc that has a radius of OP. To calculate the shoulder length of the product, use the following calculation:
DPL = shoulder length + 2 cm.
For tucking 13 + 2 = 15 cm.
The lower point of the shoulder P1 should be located on a previously constructed arc. To apply the armhole of the back, it is necessary to connect T.P1, O, G2.
To build a shoulder tuck on a pattern of a dress of size 54, one should measure 1/3 of the shoulder value to the right from T. A2. A perpendicular of 8 cm is dropped from the received T.V1, T. B2 is marked, from the T.V1 a tuck length equal to 2 cm is measured, and T. B3 is noted. Now B2 and B3 can be combined by a segment.
Waist area
To make the product look good at the waist, you need to calculate the difference between the mesh of the back and a quarter of the circumference of the waist. For the size in question, this value is calculated as follows: 1⁄2 the width of the back with a lap for a spacious fit + half the width of the armhole with the addition - 1⁄4 of the waist circumference according to the measurement:
(19.5 + 6.5) - 23.5 = 26 - 23.5 = 2.5.
To indicate on the diagram, take a rounded figure of 3 cm. To the resulting number, add 1 cm to ensure a spacious fit.
Transmission scheme
On one sheet of paper, all the back lines extend to the right. From t.H1, t.H3 is approximately removed at a distance of about 50 cm. A straight vertical line is drawn up to obtain new points L3, T4, G3.
Line width
To apply the main width of the front part from T.G3 to the left side, 1⁄2 of the width in the chest area is carried out according to the measurement, add a little to the spacious fitting and get T.G4. When calculating G3G4, it turns out:
23 + 1.5 = 24.5 cm.
A perpendicular segment descends and rises from this point, and T.T5 is placed at the intersection.
To make the width in the armhole area of the front of T.G4, half the cut-out width is added with an increase of 6.5 cm, so T.G5 is obtained. A new vertical descends, at the intersection points T6, L4, H4 are marked.
To determine the height of the front part, T.Sh. from T.T4 and 44 cm is counted.
Definition and construction of the neck
To calculate the size of the throat in width, a horizontal line is drawn from T.Sh. On the straight line, a segment of a third of the neck half-circumference is separated. It is also worth adding 1 cm for any size. It turns out the segment:
1 = 19: 3 + 1 = 7.3 cm.
The segment 2 is calculated as follows:
a third of the neck circumference + 1.5cm = 19: 3 + 1.5 = 7.8 cm.
For the cutout, a line is constructed between 1 and 2 neatly and smoothly. Divide the formed segment into 2 equivalent parts, draw an additional line of 7.3 cm through it.
Chest area drawing
Initially, the central point of the chest area is determined. From T.G3, half the length of the maximum protruding point of the chest area is laid down according to the formula: G3G6 is half 22 cm, that is 11 cm. Then the connection of T.G6 and W1 is performed.
To build the height, extend the segment 16 down. Build T.S at a distance of 29.5 cm.
Now you can determine the top of the chest tuck. It will be located slightly above the most prominent point of the chest. From T. C1 measure 2-2.5 cm and note T. C1. From it, the value of the tuck solution is counted according to the measurement taken - 12 cm. Point C2 will be obtained. Using a compass, a segment C1C2 is carried out. Arc radius - 12 cm.
To determine the depth of the chest tuck, you will need to calculate the difference in half of the circumference of the chest area and ½ of the circumference of the chest:
54 - 49 = 5cm.
This distance is drawn from t. C2, so get t. C3, T, C1 and C3, then connected by a straight line. As a result, the equality 12 = 11 should be satisfied.
Shoulder construction
To build the pattern of the sleeve of the dress 54 sizes from T.T5 lay 39 cm from the top of the shoulder length in front to the waist line. Then the G4P2 segment is divided into 4 equivalent sections, the most extreme point from the bottom is marked - O1. An arc of radius O1P2 is drawn from it. To build the shoulder length of the front of the product from 2, measure the distance of the same size with the shoulder. One lower point should be on the arcuate section 23 = 13 cm.
Through T.P3, O1, G5, a neat curve is drawn, which will become the boundary of the armhole.
Tucks at the waist
First, calculations of tucks are carried out according to the values obtained when measuring: (Front width + armhole size) - a quarter of the waist circumference =
= (23 + 6) - 23.5 = 5.5 cm.
To build tucks on the side and at the waist, the number calculated above is used. Tucks are constructed with the following depth parameter:
- tuck on the side - 2 cm;
- right waist - 2 cm;
- another small waist tuck - 1.5 cm.
Sideline made on the hip
In order for a pattern of a dress of size 54 to fit, and the dress itself later perfectly fits on the hips and does not turn out to be narrow, it is necessary to provide for a volume that is lacking in this part. For the calculation, use the formula: half-circumference of the femoral part according to measurements + 2 cm for free fit - the width of the mesh according to the constructed scheme (the difference is 62 cm and 57.5 cm).
One part of this value is added to the femoral anterior part, and the second to the back.
The result should be a pattern of a dress of 54 sizes in full size for a magnificent woman.
After drawing the drawing lines on the paper, you should check the results. To do this, the finished pattern of a dress of 54 sizes is cut out, the resulting paper product is worn on itself and the accuracy of the construction is estimated. If everything suits you, then you can start applying to the material, and then sewing.
It’s not so difficult to build and sew a dress of the right size, if you use competent instructions that describe in detail all the details of the production of such an outfit.