The modern fashion industry offers countless different models of skirts. Nevertheless, the timeless classic in the form of a straight skirt remains one of the favorite wardrobe items for ladies of any age and physique. In addition, the construction of a pattern of a straight skirt does not take much time and can be done by a novice tailor.
Basic skirt models
To begin with, we will analyze what basic styles and models of skirts stand out. One of the differences between these products is their differentiation in length. Depending on it, maxi, midi and mini skirts are distinguished.
Three types of skirts are distinguished by shape: extended up or down, narrowed and straight. Also, skirts are divided depending on the cut. So, the most popular among straight skirts are the classic midi and pencil. After a short excursion into the world of skirts, we will go directly to creating our own skirt.
Fabric selection
If you decide to sew the skirt yourself, then you should first choose the right fabric. Straight skirts made from classic costume fabric will look great. So, choosing the classic black version of the material, you can create a basic thing, which is not difficult to choose the right top. If you select a fabric in a vertical strip, then this will visually narrow the hips. It is also a good option to make a straight skirt from fabrics such as tweed, tight knitwear and velveteen.
Fabric calculation
So, the fabric is selected. But how much will it take to sew a skirt on you? Calculating fabric for a straight skirt is a simple matter. The flow rate is determined on the basis of indicators such as hip volume, skirt length and fabric pattern. If the volume of your hips is less than 80 centimeters, then you can safely take one length of the skirt. Ladies with large hips need to take two lengths.
To calculate the length of the product, you need to place a centimeter tape on the waist and lower it to the point of the proposed bottom of the skirt. Do not forget to include in your calculation fabric for allowances for seams (about 10 centimeters) and for the belt (also about 10 centimeters).
For example, for a girl with a thigh volume of 100 centimeters, you will need to take two lengths from the skirt, plus 10 centimeters for allowances. The belt can be sewn (provided that the fabric does not have a pattern) using the remaining fabric on the side. The length of the skirt will be 65 centimeters. We carry out simple arithmetic operations: 70 * 2 + 10. It turns out that it will take a total of one and a half meters of fabric.
The measurements needed to build the skirt base
- Half Waist (St). It is necessary to draw a centimeter tape horizontally around the narrowest point. Divide the resulting number by two.
- Hip Half Girth (Sat). To measure the circumference of the hips, the centimeter tape must be positioned horizontally at the widest point. The tape should pass along the protruding places. Divide the resulting number by two.
Please note that you should not stretch a centimeter tape, as this can lead to sewing a tight product in the waist and hips.
- The length of the product (Dis) is calculated as follows: a centimeter tape is drawn from the waist line to the estimated length.
- Allowances for freedom of fit are selected taking into account the type and elasticity of the fabric, as well as the desired freedom of the product. The increase in the waist (Fri) is from 0 to 1 centimeter. Hip allowance (Pb) is between 0 and 2 centimeters.
Please note that the free fit increments are taken to build half of the product.
- The position of the hips to build a skirt ranges from 18 to 20 centimeters.
Consider a step-by-step pattern of a straight skirt for beginners. To build the pattern itself, we need a pencil, a ruler, graph paper (if there is no such paper, then a piece of wallpaper is also suitable) and scissors. The sequence of actions is as follows.
Meshing
- On the paper in the upper corner we put the point T. From it to the right we draw a line equal to the following measurements: Sat + Pb - and put the point T 1 .
- From T we draw a line down, equal to the length of the product (Dis). At the end, put the point H.
- We complete the rectangle: to the right of the point H put the point H 1 .
- On the TH line, the position of the thigh line must be noted. To do this, we postpone the distance from 18 to 20 cm down from point T - these are traditional numbers that show the height of the hips.
- From point B draw a line parallel to the line T 1 H 1 and at the intersection of them put point B 1 .
- We divide the BB 1 line in half and put the point B 2 . We draw a vertical line, at the intersection with the line TT 1 we put the point T 2 , at the intersection with the line HH 1 we put the point H 2 .
Build Tucks
In order to build tucks along the front and rear panels, as well as the side seam, you need to perform some calculations. We need to determine its depth. We calculate by the following formula: Sat + Pb - St + Fri.
Side seam tuck:
- We postpone equal distances from the point T 2 to the left and right along the depth of the tuck: 4. From the marked points we extend 0.5 cm up and put the points T 3 and T 4 .
- T 2 T 3 = T 2 T 4 = Tuck Depth: 4.
- Connect the points T 3 and T 4 with point B 2 .
- Divide the line T 3 B 2 in half, set aside 0.5 cm to the right and set point P. Connect the points T 3 , P, B 2 .
- We do the same with the line T 4 B 2 : divide in half, set aside 0.5 cm to the right and put the point P 1 . Connect the points T 4 , P, B 2 .
We make tucks of the front and rear panels. Calculating their length using tricky calculations is not required. It is known that the tuck of the front panel should be from 8 to 10 cm long, and the back - from 15 to 20 cm. How exactly to determine the desired length? It is worth focusing on your type of figure and the height of the hips. So, if you have high hips, then the length of the tucks should be chosen as minimum, and if the hips are low, then the tuck should be long.
Consider the example of averaged values, how to properly build darts. So, their length for the front and rear panels is 9 cm and, accordingly, 17 cm.
Tuck the rear panel:
- From the point T along the waist line, lay the point T 5 to the right, lower the perpendicular 17 cm long and put the point TT 5 .
- The turn of the tuck of the back panel is calculated by dividing its length by six, that is, it is 2.8 cm. We postpone this number in each direction from the perpendicular and put the points T 5 / and T 5 // respectively.
- We connect these points with the point TT 5 .
Tuck front panel:
- We postpone the point T 6 from the point T 1 along the waist line to the left, lower the perpendicular 9 cm long and lower the point TT 6 .
- The turn of the front panel tuck is calculated in the same way as in the previous paragraph. Set the resulting number (1.5 cm) in each direction from the perpendicular and put the points T 6 / and T 6 // respectively.
- We connect these points with the point TT 6.
Skirt silhouette
Creating it is very simple. On the bottom line from the point H 2 in each direction, we postpone the narrowing in the amount of 1.5 cm and we obtain, respectively, the points H 3 and H 4 .
Connection of the lines of the side seam, waist and bottom
Back panel: T, H, H 3 , B 2 , P, T 3 , T 5 // , TT 5 , T 5 / , T.
Front panel: T 1 , H 1 / , H 4 , B 2 , T 4 , T 6 / , TT 6 , T 6 // , T 1 .
Belt construction
We multiply the Merck St by two and add 10 cm in order to make a fastener. This will be the length of the belt. The width in the classic model is 3-4 cm.
Open skirts
After we made a pattern of a straight skirt, it is necessary to lay out the resulting blanks on fabric.
The pattern should be located on the fabric so that the shared thread is parallel to the panels. If you put the fabric differently, it is likely that the product will stretch very much.
So, we bend the fabric in such a way that the front panel can be cut out integrally, with one canvas.
We put the back panel in view of the fact that we will not have a cut-off slot, that is, we leave two centimeters on it. Do not forget about seam allowances!
The belt must be placed on the fabric in the same way as the panel: its length runs perpendicular to the lobar thread. You can also cut the skirt directly onto the fabric, as shown in the video below.
Tailoring skirts
Having opened all the details, we proceed to sweeping. First you need to connect the front and rear panels. To do this, we sew, respectively, the side seams of the product. After this, we proceed to the hem of the bottom. Next we sharpen the belt. After all parts of the skirt are sour, try on it. If necessary, eliminate defects. We flash the product on a sewing machine and try on a new thing!
With the help of step-by-step instructions and patterns of a straight skirt for beginners, her sewing was a success!
Now you can see for yourself that creating a thing with your own hands is not so difficult. In addition, despite the fact that a straight skirt is considered classic and universal, hand-sewn, it will be a success.
Combine a straight skirt with classic blouses, both plain and multi-colored. An ideal complement to the image will be shoes with a small heel. Office outfit is ready!
If you like experimenting, then try this combination: a straight black skirt in combination with sneakers and a sweatshirt with a cute pattern. Get an unusual outfit of ordinary things.