The French town of Luneville in the Middle Ages became famous not only thanks to the palace of Stanislav Leshchinsky and magnificent porcelain, but also the beadwork technique invented by local craftsmen. Initially, it was invented with the aim of replacing lace from silk threads, which were extremely expensive. In 1865, the tailor Louis Ferry-Bonneshaw began to add beads and bugles to embroidery. This allowed you to create a chic decor for any wardrobe items. A lot of time has passed since then, but today Luneville embroidery, patterns of which are often created by the most famous designers and artists, is in demand and is used to create couture dresses.
Materials
Luneville embroidery requires use of special tools and fixtures. In particular, in order for flowers from sequins, rhinestones and beads to appear on the fabric, you need to stock up with a special crochet hook and a hoop or frame for stretching the warp. The latter should have a design that does not allow sagging of the base. Otherwise, ugly “wrinkles” form around the finished embroidery.
In addition, to get a chic Luneville embroidery, the photo of which, posted on social networks and specialized forums, will delight not only your friends, but also experienced craftsmen, you need to pick up successful patterns. To apply them to the fabric, special stencils are used.
Threads
They can be from one hundred percent polyester, and silk or cotton. In any case, the main criterion for selection should be the strength of the thread and the ability to hold nodules. With regard to its color, experts disagree on this issue. Some masters recommend using a thread of any shade of ivory, since it is almost invisible to the eye and does not fit only on a black base. Other embroiderers advise starting from the color of the textile base. It is believed that threads of German brands Mettler Seralene N120 or Gutermann N100, both 100% polyester, are best suited for bead embroidery.
Scissors
This tool is also essential to cut the threads during embroidery. It is better to choose a model with a small and pointed tip, the size of a little more than nail scissors.
Luneville hook and the choice of textiles as the basis
Since it is impossible to do without this tool, we should talk more about it. The hook for Luneville embroidery is a handle, usually wooden, which holds a fairly sharp needle with a slot in the tongue. The choice of its size is carried out based on the type of fabric that they are going to use. Professional tools are usually designed so that you can change the needles depending on the fabric, inserting them into the handle and securing with a side screw.
Luneville technique is suitable either for very thin textiles, or very rough. Most often, silk, velvet, organza and cambric are used, on which any embroidery looks great.
Luneville technique
Before starting work, you will need to fix the hoop or frame on the machine, since both hands will be involved in creating flowers on the fabric. The left one will have to hold the thread, and the right one - insert the hook from top to bottom in the base fabric to get a neat Luneville embroidery.
Master Class Leading experts in this field usually begin with a demonstration of creating simple stitches. Step by step, it looks like this:
- at the end of the thread make a knot;
- bring it with your left hand under the fabric in the place where the first stitch should be made;
- hook the thread with a needle, which is inserted with the right hand from top to bottom;
- pull the thread;
- turn the hook 180 degrees.
Following the latest recommendation is crucial. As practice shows, if you do not constantly make rotational movements clockwise and counterclockwise, then quite large and ugly holes may appear on fabric, especially thin ones. As a result, Luneville embroidery will have a sloppy or shabby appearance.
Row of stitches
To get, for example, a thin stalk of a flower, repeat the same steps. In this case, you need to try to create stitches of the same length. For this:
- after a short distance, the hook is again inserted into the base;
- hook the thread;
- wrap it around a hook;
- turn it counterclockwise 180 degrees and pull it up, trying to keep the thread straight;
- turn the hook clockwise, etc.
If you fill your hand, you can work much faster than in other techniques.
Luneville embroidery with beads
Having mastered the creation of patterns only with a thread, you can proceed to work on more complex and beautiful options.
The main difference between the process of embroidery with beads is that crochet actions are carried out from the wrong side. Step by step, it looks like this:
- make a knot on the thread and pull it through the base fabric to the front side;
- put on a few beads;
- the fabric is turned over;
- move the first bead placed on the thread;
- Luneville hook is introduced from the bottom up;
- wrap around the thread;
- pull the hook down.
As a result, 2 loops should form on the wrong side. They need to be connected in a single chain. For this, the first is pulled into the second loop, turning the hook 180 degrees. Then they act in a similar way. If everything is done correctly, then on the front side you get a neat string of beads, and on the wrong side - a chain of eyelets of the same size.
Books
As already mentioned, the first country where a similar embroidery appeared (Luneville), is France. There is a school of Lessage, where novice craftswomen can be trained. The best of them then get the opportunity to work in the most famous fashion houses, decorating wedding dresses and evening dresses from the famous couturiers.
Books on the Luneville embroidery technique can help everyone else. The most famous of them is the work of art critic Gail Narsh. It is called the “18th Century Embroidery Technique”. In it, the author describes in detail various ways of decorating fabrics and provides illustrative examples with diagrams and photos of finished works.
Another book that can help those who wish to learn to decorate clothes and home textiles with beads, rhinestones and sequins is Luneville Embroidery by Didier Carpentier. It presents the secrets of experienced craftswomen and posted drawings with samples of the most popular patterns.
Now you know how to create Luneville beadwork. You can create schemes for your work yourself, taking as a basis ready-made stencils. Remember that the main thing is patience and the desire to achieve excellence in your work, allowing you to create real masterpieces.