From ancient times, a metallized thread or gimp has been used to decorate fabrics. Clothing embroidered in gold or silver has always been considered a sign of wealth and belonging to an aristocratic family. The art of decorating fabrics with precious patterns is still very much appreciated. This work is very painstaking and requires special skills and patience from the craftswomen.
Lurex and Gimp
The thread of the film, coated with a thin layer of metal, was called "Lurex", in honor of the manufacturer of nylon and polyester yarn - the company Lurex. It can be any shade. The color depends on the composition of the adhesive with which the foil is applied to the base. Shiny material, including metallic threads, is commonly called lurex. For the manufacture can be used foil made of brass, copper, aluminum.
The metallized thread for embroidery in Russia was called the cantle and looked like a thin wire, which was not easy to make. The metal was heated and slowly pulled out of it a strong and uniform wire. That is why the word has become synonymous with long and troublesome work. Gold embroidery was used to decorate church utensils, uniforms and festive clothing made of various materials: cloth, velvet and morocco.
The technology for the manufacture of metal threads
Metallized yarn of silver and gold over time began to be made by other methods. The technology of its production has changed, various textures have appeared. Gradually, other materials, including silk thread, began to be added to the composition of products . The embroidery technique was also improved, and pearls and precious stones began to be used to further decorate fabrics. The color scheme of metallized threads was complemented by various shades. Matte and glossy options have appeared. Modern Lurex is created from copper, nickel or aluminum, which are painted with special pigments and coated with a vinyl acetate composition. As a basis, nylon fibers or dacron thread are used. They are covered with metal foil.
Disadvantages of Lurex Thread
Due to the special properties of the material and special additives, it is possible to achieve a rainbow overflow of threads, a glow in the dark and a light-absorbing effect. But, despite the modern technologies used for the manufacture of metallized threads, they have several significant drawbacks that complicate the implementation of embroidery using such yarn.
The main problems associated with the use of lurex are:
- Loose threads. They are easily torn and stretched.
- The ends are fluffy and tangled, which makes embroidery difficult.
- The thread slides off the needle.
Craftswomen, often working with Lurex, additionally fasten the thread on the needle with a small knot in order to save material and prevent the threads from swelling too much. In order not to tear the yarn, they try not to pull it. Another technique that is often used by needlewomen: embroidery with metallic thread, combined with other types of yarn. Most often it is cotton. When working with a mouline thread, one thread is drawn from the skein and added to the lurex. This option is also found in cross-stitch kits, where you need to combine different types of threads yourself.
The use of metal threads in needlework
A real gold or silver thread is practically not used to decorate household items and everyday clothes because of the high cost. Most often they are decorated with carnival and theatrical costumes, expensive designer products and shoes. Accessories are also decorated with lurex. In modern embroidery, a nylon-based thread has spread. This material is cheaper, more flexible and quite durable, unlike ordinary gimp. Lurex is used not only for embroidery, but also for knitting or crocheting. An additional metallized thread is introduced into a skein of ordinary yarn, which gives the product knitted from it an attractive shine.
Gold embroidery in the modern world
The difference in the technique of embroidery with cantle is working with the surface of the material, and not flashing it through. In this type of needlework, the required number of threads is pre-determined and cut based on the type of pattern. Then, each piece of yarn is fixed to the fabric using a transverse stitch. Modern needlewomen often use gold embroidery to create beautiful brooches and other women's jewelry. Much less often, metallized thread is used to decorate costumes and dresses. Modern technologies allow you to create a drawing using an automated system. But the art of hand-made gold embroidery continues to be highly regarded not only among lovers of luxury.