Today we sew a comfortable and beautiful fur vest. The pattern is made with reliefs, so that in the end the thing will perfectly fit the figure. Our vest will need a lining. It is better to do it yourself, quilting together a silk satin and a base of thin wool drape.
You need to know the measurements of the girth of the neck, chest, waist and hips, the widest place of the arm, length and width of the back, shoulder length, chest height, distance between the tops of the chest.
- We build an auxiliary grid on which a vest pattern will be drawn. First, draw a rectangle AA * BB *, where AA * = BB * = chest circumference / 4 + 4 (horizontal lines) and AB = A * B * = back length + 20. Inside it, draw a horizontal chest line located at a distance from the top AC = A * C * = chest circumference / 6 + 5; and the waist line at a distance AD = A * D * = the length of the back.
- From the chest line, you need to spend a few more auxiliary. Those that limit the width of the armhole will be called EF (on the back) and E * F * (on the shelves). EF is at a distance of AE = CF = width of the back + 1 from the left edge of the rectangle, and E * F * will be to the right of EF at a distance of EE * = FF * = chest circumference / 8. Find the middle of the segment FF *, let it be the point X. Draw from X down to the end line XX *, and the vest pattern will be divided into halves for the front and back. From the chest line, go up EF up 5 cm (point G), and up E * F * 4 cm (point G *). By connecting the points G, X and G * with a strongly curved line, you get the bottom of the armhole.
- Draw the neckline of the front. To do this, draw points A * I * = A * J * = neck circumference / 6 + 0.5 from point A * and connect the points I *, J * with a circle sector. From point I * lying on line AA *, climb vertically 2 cm and set point H *. The curve H * I * J * is the neckline.
- Step back from the point I * to the left horizontally 4 cm and put K *. Connect the H * and K * of the inclined line - this is the segment of the shoulder from the neck to the tuck (then we will turn the tucks into reliefs). In the same place, on the line AA *, set aside the point L * from the point K * at the distance K * L * = chest circumference / 12 - 1. From K * down to the chest line draw a vertical segment K * M *. Draw the line M * N * = M * K * on the inclined line L * M *. We got a shoulder tuck in front.
- The front shoulder is drawn on the inclined line N * C. Set aside 10 cm to the left and then lower 1 cm down. Put the point O * and connect it to N *. Curve G * O * you will draw the upper half of the armhole front.
- On the back, a vest pattern is constructed like this. To cut the neckline, step back from point A by a distance equal to A * I *, and then go up 1 cm. Set point I and connect it to A smooth curve.
- Now shoulder and tuck. First, follow the line EF from point E, step 1 cm down and connect the resulting point (denote it by Y) with I. Along the line IY, step back to the right 4 cm, put the point K. Put another point 2 cm to the right to the right point N. Move vertically down from K segment KM = 8 cm. Through M and N, draw a segment ending 0.5 cm above N. Designate its end with the point L. The angle KML forms a protrusion of the back. Through LY we draw a segment 10 cm long, marking its right end with the point O. So you draw the shoulder. And the OG curve completes the armhole.
- We proceed to the construction of side slices. From the XX * vertical on the waist line, step back 1.5 cm in both directions and put the points Q and Q *. Connect both points with lines X. On the line BB * from the middle of the back, step back to BR = hips / 4 + 2, from the middle of the front to B * R * = hips / 4 + 3. The lines QR and Q * R * will look like arcs; they intersect with each other in the drawing, so the details that make up the vest pattern, then you need to transfer individually to another sheet of paper. From point B *, step back vertically downward 2.5 cm, from point B– 2 cm. With a smooth line, connect these lowest points on the pattern with R * and R, respectively.
- There were only tucks at the waist. The centers of both tucks are located on the DD * line, at a distance of 8 cm from the middle of the back and front. On the front pattern, back 2 cm in both directions horizontally, 14 cm up and 16 cm down. On the back pattern - 1.5 cm in both directions and 14/16 cm up / down. Connect the dots to draw tucks. Now connect the corresponding vertices of the tucks at the waist and on the shoulders, and from the lower points of the tucks at the waist, lower the verticals down. On them you will cut out the reliefs.
The fur vest pattern is ready! Further, like real tailors, we will make a fitting sample from an inexpensive fabric and customize it according to the figure. You could have done otherwise and talk about what changes are applied to fit directly on the pattern, but the fitting option still remains the most reliable and simple. When you are sure that the sample fits well on the figure, proceed to cutting the fur.