There are manual and machine types of seams in sewing. The former are most often used for basting cut details and for finishing the raw edges of fabric. To do this, two pieces of fabric are folded and sewn from left to right over the edge. In this case, the stitches are made small, and the material is captured by a needle almost at the edge. At the same time, the seam should not tighten the fabric, otherwise a scar may form when ironing.
Types of hand seams :
- Stitch forward the needle. This is the easiest view. The needle goes forward and pierces the tissue at regular intervals of 2-3 mm. Stitches when sweeping parts are made from 7 to 10 mm long. Most often, such seams are used for basting finishes, assembling fabric into an assembly, temporarily joining parts and marking the middle.
- A seam for a needle. The needle is brought out to the front with the wrong side, and then, stepping back 2-3 mm, pierce the fabric. From the wrong side, a stitch is made, which is 2 times longer than the top, that is, from 4 to 6 mm, and the needle is brought back to the front side. Such a seam is used to temporarily tightly connect the details of the cut.
- Edge seam. Combine sections of parts, and then over the edge, using a silk thin thread, make small stitches, capturing two or three threads of the edge. The connected parts are laid out on both sides, and then ironed. It is usually used when a small piece is missing on the cut part from the edge side.
- Copy stitches. Without tightening the thread, the stitch stitches from 7 to 10 mm long are laid along the contours of the parts. Then they are disconnected and the seam threads are cut with scissors.
- Hidden stitches. Bend the cut allowance for filing, and then sweep at a distance from the edge of 1-2 mm. When laying a seam, it is necessary to draw a needle and thread inside the hem - you should get a stitch with a length of 3 to 5 mm. Having brought the needle out, you need to grab 1 or 2 threads of fabric, and then again draw the needle into the fold. After completion, the marking thread should not be visible from either the wrong or the right side.
- Inverted seam. Sew the material with a seam behind the needle at a distance of 2 mm from the edge. After they turn it inside out, the edge is trimmed, and, folding the seam with an accordion, carefully tuck it in and re-sew it. Before scribbling, it is necessary to lay a basting at a distance of 3 mm at the first seam and 5 mm at the second. Such a seam is used for sewing from chintz, batiste, satin and other similar fabrics.
- Sewing stitch. The pieces of fabric with the front side are folded inward so that one of them protrudes 5 mm, is sutured, the seam is aligned and the protruding edge is tucked 3 mm, labeled, then swept and sewed.
Machine types of seams:
- Embossed seams. Subdivided into interlinear with cord and without cord, interlinear, tuck-in and out-line.
Low-profile types of seams are made on 2 and 4-needle machines, underneath for the convexity lay a strip of soft drap or batting. Preliminary outline the position of the first line. To make the seam more embossed, a thin lining fabric is placed down , and then a cord is stretched between the fabric layer and the lines. To get a seam without a cord, make a protrusion on the needle plate and to bend the material - a groove in the sole of the foot.
Sewing is performed by building up on the front (possibly on the wrong side) side of the part, bent over the notches. From the line to the inflection, the distance is from one and a half to two millimeters.
Tucked out mark with one line on the wrong side. Then the part is bent along the planned line with the front side inward, lining a strip of fabric, healed in one and a half to two millimeters from the bend line. After the seam, either iron or iron.
Adjustment types of seams are performed with and without a strip of fabric. A seam line is drawn from the front. Then they add a strip of fabric from the inside and a connecting line is made along it. The part with the front side is bent inward and sewn up at a distance of one and a half to two centimeters from the line. Bend a strip of fabric and lay it on the other side of the stitch. Bend the part into a strip and embed;
- seams with piping. These types of seams are divided into connecting and marginal;
- folds. They are divided into connecting, finishing, two-sided, one-sided, striked, soft, built-in and tuning.