Chimney ceiling passage: types, requirements, installation instructions

Installation of the ceiling-passage unit requires certain skills from the contractor. Home masters with insufficient experience can make some serious mistakes. And that is characteristic, most of them are at the places where the chimney exits the wall or intersects with the roof.

It should be noted that this unit is very responsible and any mistake in installing it can lead to various undesirable consequences, including fire and fire.

Varieties

Chimneys can be classified into several types depending on their location:

1. Indigenous - located at some distance from the furnace and connected to it through a sleeve. This option is convenient due to the fact that the chimney can be connected to several stoves.
2. Wall - in most cases they are built into the main wall, but in some cases they are allowed along it.
3. Mounted - build on the stove.

Thus, the way the PUF pipe emanating from the furnace is structured will also determine its passage through the ceiling of the wall or ceiling. But in most cases, preference is given to mounted chimneys.

Rules that should not be neglected

As already noted above, the installation of the chimney does not allow negligence and it must be carried out with all responsibility. To do this, consider a number of rules:

1. Before installing the chimney, it is necessary to carefully plan its location, so as not to damage the main components of the roof. In addition, there should be no more than 3 turns.
2. The length of the horizontal section of the pipe emanating from the furnace should not exceed 1 meter.
3. When installing a metal pipe, it is necessary to provide a gap to the flammable finishing elements (from 1.5 meters, not less).
4. The installation of the chimney must be carried out in such a way that its cut is not facing the leeward side. Otherwise, the force of natural traction will be significantly reduced.
5. It should be possible to clean the pipe in the chimney duct. This is a very important condition.

As professionals note, PPU single-wall pipes must be additionally protected with heat-insulating material.

At the same time, the heat-insulating layer on the outside must, in turn, be protected by a metal casing (made of galvanized steel). Such a measure will prevent fire and condensation. What materials can be used will be discussed in the next section.

Using basalt wool

Basalt wool can be used as a heat insulator, but before buying, you need to make sure that it can withstand high temperatures (more than 600 ° C). Many experts are inclined to the common opinion that this is not the best option. And there is a definite explanation for this.

The fact is that during the manufacture of this insulation, resins are used as a binder, which, under the influence of high temperature, begin to emit formaldehyde.

In addition, after fixing the ceiling-passage unit in the chimney, condensate sometimes forms, and when moisture and mineral wool interact, it loses its heat-shielding properties. These qualities can be restored as moisture evaporates, but only partially.

Sand

Until recently, sand was used in everyday life for these purposes. However, this option had a significant drawback due to the peculiarity of the material - fine grain. Therefore, over the course of the exploitation period, sand woke up through small cracks.

In this regard, the stove had to be periodically cleaned and once again to fill the unit.

Clay

You can also use clay. Just before that, it must be diluted before acquiring a pasty consistency. After that, the whole mass is sealed with the obtained mass.

Expanded clay

This is the best option among all possible for a ceiling-passage unit with insulation. The space is filled with expanded clay small or medium fractions. It is known to many professional builders as a natural material that is light in weight. And its advantage is that even after getting wet, it is able to restore its properties.

Other ways to avoid severe overheating

As some owners of private real estate note, it makes no sense to carry out thermal insulation of the passage node. In their humble opinion, you can do without it. In addition, if the space is not filled with anything, this will not allow overheating and burning of a certain part of the chimney. And due to the ventilation created in this place, the pipe section will cool much faster.

In reality, this option for organizing the ceiling-passage unit can be successfully challenged. The thing is that a hot pipe radiates heat, which is why the nearby tree begins to dry, which in the end does not benefit the material. Fire can occur even at lower temperatures (+ 50 ° C). Therefore, it is necessary to take care of the necessary measures, for which resort to several methods:

1. Installation of a water jacket in the chimney - heated liquid can be used for heating. Only it will be necessary to install a special tank and draw water out of the pipes.
2. You can simply install only one tank, where the water will be heated. It is only necessary to ensure that it does not boil, and also periodically drain and add fluid.

Ultimately, the temperature in the chimney can be significantly reduced, as, in fact, the risk of ignition of building materials.

In addition to water, you can resort to air cooling of the ceiling-passage unit. To do this, another chimney must be placed on top of the chimney (so that one is in the other). And in the upper and lower parts you should put a grill for the passage of air flow.

Metal knot

Today, sandwich pipes are widely used. In fact, these are two metal cylinders of different diameters inserted one into the other.

But how to do everything? The work will be carried out as follows:

1. First you need to purchase a finished metal passage pipe, which is otherwise called a box due to the characteristic shape of the cube. It can also be made independently of galvanized iron, taking into account the diameter of the pipe and the thickness of the overlap material. At the same time, the diameter of the hole should be slightly smaller than the size of the chimney of the ceiling-passage unit.
2. In the next step, you need to prepare the pipe for installation. Due to the fineness of the metal, it is not able to isolate a heating chimney from combustible material. For this, basalt fiber with a foil surface can be used. It is glued to the inner walls of the box, as well as to those parts that will be in contact with the ceiling.
3. A spot is planned on the ceiling, which is subsequently sawn with a jigsaw.
4. Now you can install the box.
5. A special metal panel (often made of stainless steel) with a hole cut in the middle should be fixed on the ceiling, and its diameter should correspond to the size of the circle in the box.
6. At the final stage of arranging the ceiling-passage unit, you should arrange a chimney on the floor of the second floor (if this is a house) or an attic (whether it is a one-story house or a bathhouse). This is done using the same panel or metal sheet with a hole cut out in the middle.
7. The location of the pipe must be calculated so that the joint of its two parts does not fall on the internal cavity of the duct, which is already located in the ceiling. It should be lower or higher.

As previously noted, instead of basalt fiber, it is better to use other materials - sand (although also not the best option), clay, expanded clay.

The material will serve not only as a heater, but will also be a good heat insulator.

Drywall Box

In this case, the installation instructions for the ceiling-mounted unit looks the same as with a metal box, except that other materials are used. The procedure itself is as follows:

1. In the ceiling, it is necessary to equip the hole with a square shape. In this case, the distance from the walls of the ceiling to the surface of the pipe should be at least 200-250 mm.
2. Using heat-resistant drywall, make a tall box. It will block the pipe from overlapping.
3. From the ceiling side, a metal sheet with a circle in the middle (in accordance with the diameter of the chimney) is also fixed on the hole made.
4. A metal pipe is pushed through the sheet.
5. In the interfloor overlap, a heat insulator is laid around the entire perimeter and to the entire height of the box.

As previously noted, during the installation of the ceiling-passage unit, claydite and other materials can be used instead of mineral wool.

Chimney outside

If the external walls of a house or bath are made of brick or other non-combustible material, then it is not so difficult to remove a chimney through them. To do this, a through hole is made in a round shape, subsequently a metal sleeve is installed there.

But in the case when the aperture is done perfectly round in exact accordance with the size of the sandwich, you can do without this element. Also, it will not be possible to insert a sleeve if the chimney through the wall passes at an angle different from the straight line.

During the installation of the exhaust pipe, one should not forget that its joints should not be in the thickness of the ceiling. Existing gaps must be filled with the selected fireproof seal. By and large, the installation of a ceiling-passage unit for a bathhouse or a house is reduced to installing a pipe in the wall and connecting it to a vertical chimney.

At the same time, if the house is built of wood or using frame technology, then you should follow the same rules as arranging a chimney through a ceiling. In other words, you should also make an opening here, but already in the wall and install the finished box or make it yourself. Then fill the inner cavity with a heat insulator and close on both sides with metal sheets (galvanized iron).

A number of rules for securing the passage

To perform the correct installation of the metal chimney to the wall, you need to follow simple rules:

1. For a pipe with a tee and a condensate drain in its lower part, it is best to use a special bracket.
2. When installing the sections one into the other, the chimney should be fixed to the wall by means of clamps every meter.
3. It is necessary to ensure that the fasteners do not coincide with the joints of the sections.
4. Bypassing the overhang of the roof, it is necessary to use the knee, the angle of which is only 30 ° or 45 °.

If the installation of the drainage system has not yet been completed, then leave space for laying the gutter using fasteners of suitable length.

In conclusion

The installation of the ceiling-passage unit (PPU) must be approached with all responsibility. During operation or during operation, fire hazard situations may occur. When the stove is working, the nearest areas on the wall or ceiling (depending on the chosen method of installation of the chimney) will become very hot. And if you do not take appropriate fire safety measures, then fire can not be avoided.

This article was devoted to this, which shows the need to equip the passage unit in the ceiling or wall. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the recommended distances relative to the material of the floor.