To sew a set of bed linen, you should study some types of stitches that are used specifically for this purpose. This is a double seam, which is also called French in another way, as well as a seam, which is also called a denim, or a seam in the castle. Each of them consists of two lines. In this article, we will consider each linen seam - how to sew, how to sweep, as well as common mistakes in their implementation and how to prevent them.
What is a linen seam
The linen seam (the master class will be considered in this article) provides special durability, as well as an aesthetic appearance of bedding. Such seams are used in cases where the product will often need to be washed and subjected to various other considerable loads. When washing in washing machines, quite often those seams that were processed with a conventional overlock quickly become unusable, which, of course, cannot be said about linen seams. A seam on a typewriter in a sewing factory is performed using a special foot, which greatly simplifies the entire process. But at home, we have to do in other ways.
Linen seam
Sewing stitch (jeans) is used when sewing bedding, sportswear, as well as suits that should not be lined.
It is necessary to fold two pieces of matter facing the inside, releasing a section of the canvas of the lower part to the width of the seam (seven millimeters) plus two millimeters for processing (allowance). Sweep the parts with a seam “forward needle”. Stitch both parts one millimeter from the fold.
Care must be taken to ensure that all fabric folds are even and neat. The appearance of creases or pinches on the fabric is not allowed. At the end of the line, carefully remove all basting. Turn stapled parts in different directions. Bend the seam itself to the side so that with its help it turns out to close the tissue section. Bast again.
Now you should lay another line, which should be located at a distance of two millimeters from the folded edge. Carefully remove the basting. We have taken apart one linen seam - how to sew and sweep it, as well as why it is needed. There was the last touch: at the end of the work, iron the seam.
What is the presser foot
The standard set of a modern sewing machine includes a special foot for performing a narrow turn on thin fabrics. This foot can have different names and even have slightly different sizes. But it is perfect for making a seam. True, you should tune in to the fact that you won’t be able to get a good seam with it right away, you will have to spend some time training.
Linen double seam
A double or inversion seam is used in those situations that require the trimmed edges of the fabric to be inserted inside the seam. This type is used when making bed sets (pillowcases, duvet covers), as well as things sewn from delicate fabrics with high flowability (unlined suits).
It is necessary to fold the parts of the product so that the wrong side of both canvases is directed inward. Carefully trim tissue sections. Step away from the edge of the canvas three millimeters. Now sweep the fabric using the “forward needle” stitch for this purpose. Sew on the typewriter with the usual line and carefully remove the entire basting. Now you need to carefully trim the trimmed edge so that the second seam comes out more neat.
After the entire mark is removed and the edge is aligned, the parts should be turned out and positioned so that the front of the fabric is directed inward. Now sweep the seam along the seamy side, and then sew again on the sewing machine. The second line should be spaced from the edge from five to seven millimeters. Carefully remove all basting and iron the seam. So, one more linen seam is considered. How to sew and what products are obtained with its help, we found out in this section. And now it remains to clarify some general rules for all linen seams.
Useful Tips
Do not forget that any fabric should be inspected before use for defects and mark unsuitable areas, if any. Also, the canvas must be washed and ironed. Thus, you will prevent unpleasant surprises in reducing the size of the finished product after washing. In order for the aligned sections of the material to maintain their position during operation and one sheet along the sections does not move relative to the other, they should be chipped with pins across the edge of the sheet. The pins must be inserted into the fabric so that their heads are turned toward the slices. But they take out the pins when sweeping from the fabric one at a time - as the need for their use disappears, and immediately enter into the place where they are stored permanently. All pins are also carefully inspected before use, and if any of them suddenly come across rusty or broken, they should be ruthlessly disposed of. The former will leave an indelible mark on the fabric, while the latter may simply tear the canvas or pull the threads out of it.
The secrets of a good seam mark
The marking is required to be made exclusively on the table from right to left, using the “forward needle” stitch. In this case, two or three stitches no more than one centimeter long are strung on the needle. When basting, you can allow a small run in the length of the stitches (more or less by one millimeter). The nodule and temporary tack during sweeping are placed on the outer layer of the fabric. This is done so that you can control the fastening of the thread. Before fastening the thread, they check to see if the stitch turned out to be curved, and the connection is very weak or, on the contrary, too tight. To perform temporary fastening, one or two stitches of short length are produced using the back-needle method. To prevent the fastening from opening, leave the edge of the thread about two centimeters long. When sewing parts, sew the stitch not exactly along the basting seam, but close to the basting stitches on the seam allowance side. Then the basting threads can be easily removed, and the product will not be narrow, since the seams of the basting are always somewhat distributed during the fitting.
The most common mistakes that can be made in the process of performing a double seam, and how to prevent them
In this section, we will understand how to sew a linen seam beautifully and accurately, and what needs to be done to avoid such common mistakes in its manufacture.
1. On one side of the seam the canvas is stretched, and on the other - tucked up. To prevent this phenomenon, you need to combine and chop the slices, placing the fabric completely on the table. If the slices are lobar, then basting and stitching need to be on the same side at a distance of seven to nine millimeters from the slice.
2. Thread or fabric protrudes from the face of the product in the connecting seam. Such a defect may occur if the line is a curve, and the seam width norm (from five to seven millimeters) is not maintained.
Also, the cause may be an insufficiently or unevenly trimmed seam allowance after the first line, which should be from three to four millimeters.
3. A fold is formed in the fold of the inner seam. This folding may occur if the initial stitch is not properly aligned with the fold of the inner seam.
In this article, we examined what a linen seam can be - how to sew with a seam and in which cases it is better to use a double seam. As it turned out, making such seams at home is not at all difficult. All they require is a little neatness.