Abbey of Saint-Denis is most often not included in the standard excursion tourist program. This is due to the fact that it is located in a very disadvantaged suburb of Paris. But this place is of great historical value, it is certainly worth a visit.
The legend of the abbey
The origin of the name Saint-Denis is associated with the legend of Dionysius - the first bishop of Paris and the patron saint of France. As the story goes, he was sent to these lands by the Pantik to convert the Gallic pagans to the Christian faith. He was executed on Montmartre during the reign of King Valerian: his head was chopped off. However, the body of St. Dionysius came to his head, took it in his hands and walked about six to seven kilometers to the northeast. After which it fell next to a small settlement, which was later named after him: Saint-Denis. This story happened back in 258 AD. Still on the icons of St. Dionysius is depicted holding his head in his hands.
At the burial site of Dionysius of Paris, or rather even above the grave itself, in 475, the church of the monastery of Saint-Denis was built with the blessing of St. Genevieve. In those days, there was a Gallo-Roman cemetery. And in the 7th century, by order of King Dagober the First, an abbey was erected around. The ruler himself wished to be buried here. All the monarchs of France were buried in the abbey : kings and queens, princesses and princes. Information on the number of burials of higher persons differs in different sources, because far from all burials have survived. Many graves were destroyed.
Gothic style originates here.
The church of St. Dionysius itself was reconstructed many times: in the seventh century during the creation of the monastery, during the reign of Pepin Korotky. In the XII century, the abbey became already very influential and powerful in France. Therefore, it was decided to expand it and build new buildings. This large-scale reconstruction began to be carried out by Abbot Suger, an enlightened and outstanding religious figure of his generation, a traveler. He was appreciated and listened to by several French kings at once (for example, Louis the Fourth and Louis the Seventh).
The idea of reconstruction was to reflect the increased weight of France and its culture in Europe, and throughout the world. The construction lasted more than a dozen years. The abbot wanted to preserve the original appearance. Thus, as a result of a mixture of architectural traditions and trends, a Gothic style emerged : a fusion of Burgundian and Romanesque styles. And the first building erected in Gothic, was the church of the abbey of Saint-Denis.
Suger-architect owns the creation of high stained-glass windows with images of stories from the Bible, a “stained glass rose” above the entrance, which became the abbey’s decorations. The church of Saint-Denis continued to be restored after the death of Abbot Suger. In the following centuries, something constantly changed in it, therefore, the decoration of those centuries has survived only partially.
Tomb of the French Kings
In the 13th century, Louis IX ordered the transfer of the burial places of all monarchs who ruled before him to the territory of the Abbey. The church also began to serve as the tomb of the kings of France.
By tombstones of different times, one can trace how funerary art has changed and developed in different centuries. Some of the plates and monuments are decorated with statues, figures of sleeping monarchs (this is characteristic of the twelfth century), in the Renaissance, tombstones were decorated with compositions already with the hope of resurrection.
Abbey of Saint-Denis during the days of the revolution in France
The Hundred Years' War, the Huguenot Wars inflicted significant damage on the architecture of the abbey, but the tombs suffered mostly during the French Revolution. The ashes of the Autocrats were dumped in a ditch and buried, a large number of works of art stored on the territory were removed or lost.
They say that the revolutionaries put on public display the body of King Louis the Fourth. For a while, anyone could come up and stare at the remains. Some bodies were torn to pieces, torn apart by necrophiles and even sold.
With this black page, the story of the Saint Denis Abbey almost ended. The cathedral was to be demolished by decree of the National Assembly, but at the last moment it was canceled.
In 1814, the relics of kings dumped into "mass graves" were dug up, collected in a crypt in the assuary. And in 1869, the basilica of the Abbey of Saint-Denis itself was restored by the wonderful French architect Viole-le-Duc, who restored more than one great monument. He worked, for example, on the cathedral of Notre Dame, Mont Saint-Michel and others. In the XVII century, Saint-Denis again began to function as a tomb for the crown.
King's burial ceremony
In the XVII century, according to the theory of French lawyers, the king should be immortal. This was emphasized in every way with the help of a large number of burial rituals. The autocrat had a dual essence: man and the anointed of God. For example, the funeral of King Henry the Fourth lasted forty days. The interiors of the monarch were removed after death and buried in the abbey of Saint-Denis separately and without ceremony. The heart was cleaned, insisted on alcohol and folded, rubbed with herbs in a cloth bag, then in a lead box, which was already placed in a silver box. The hearts of the monarchs were kept in different places. They attached particular importance, because it was with their heart that they supported France. The body was embalmed, buried separately. The king’s effigy was also made from straw, however, after the French Revolution, none of them survived. The effigy of Henry the Fourth imitated with the help of special rituals the life of the living king for 10 whole days.
In Saint-Denis, all the royal regalia accompanied the embalmed body until the very last moment: pronouncing the iconic phrase of the transition of the throne to new hands.
The king is dead ... Long live the king!
After this phrase, the regalia of the king as quickly as possible followed in Reims for the coronation.
The meaning of Saint Denis
Starting from the XI-XII centuries, the abbey had a great weight in France: not only the monarchs were buried here, but the heirs studied, the queens were crowned here. The monastery of Saint-Denis conducted educational activities in the Middle Ages, the monks were engaged in charity work: there was a hospital, a nursing home and a shelter.
The Abbey’s Basilica has architectural significance: it is the source of the development of the Gothic style, stained glass art was born here.
Necropolis of Saint-Denis reflects the development of the funeral ceremonies of France and is a unique monument with 51 tombstones.
In 2004, the heart of Louis XVII, the son of Marie Antoinette, was buried here, although he did not rule, he was recognized as king by many European countries in the United States.
How to get to the Abbey
The thirteenth line of the Paris metro will lead you to the basilica . The stop is called Basilique St Denis in the direction of the outskirts station.
You can also use the high-speed train (in Paris it is abbreviated as RER), line D, the station is called: Saint Denis.
Operating hours of the Basilica
You can get to the adjoining part of the church for free. From here you can look at the burial through the grate. The basilica is open to visitors almost every day, except when there are funerals or weddings. The entrance to the necropolis is paid, it is located on the right side of the Cathedral of Saint-Denis. Photos inside are prohibited.
No events in the history of France could completely destroy this burial place of the great monarchs, a monument of French culture, a witness to the change of times and cultures. The visitor will undoubtedly be greatly impressed by the Gothic arches of the cathedral, virtuosic stained glass windows and gravestones very different in style: from gloomy medieval to inspiring the hope of resurrection and eternal life of the monuments of the Renaissance.