Fashionable stylists and simple lovers of sewing are always interested in the history of the appearance of various costumes, dresses, etc. And this is no accident, because it has long been noticed that after a certain period of time, fashion repeats. This applies to both women's and men's clothing and shoes. Among Russian fashion designers it is customary to include elements of ancestral costumes in their collections, in particular, ancient Slavs. One of these outfits is Poneva.
general description
Many fashionable dress lovers do not even suspect what poneva is. And this outfit is a voluminous woolen skirt that used to be worn by married ladies. Often this skirt was blue in a large cage, and its lower part was always beautifully decorated. Basically, this element of clothing was popular in the southern regions of Russia and some regions of Belarus.
Wearing traditions
To understand what ponev is, you need to dig deeper into the history of wearing it. Women at that time were dressing when they got married. Together with the poneway, a kitschka (a type of ancient female headdress) was dressed , as well as special details of the chest and shoulder clothes.
In addition to married, dressed up in poneva and those girls who have reached puberty. This peculiar tradition even had its own name - the rite of maturity. It is interesting that after dressing ponew about a girl, one could say so: "she took off her shirt." It was understood that the place of the children's shirt was now taken by an adult robe. If the girl is wearing a ponev, then this means that she can already be wooed. But for the most part, poneva is clothing that was intended for married women. Moreover, this skirt was compared with the “woman’s bondage” in the sense that every woman must go her own way - giving birth to children to continue the family.
Rite for girls
According to the descriptions of historians and ethnographers in Russia, young girls under 16 years old did not wear separate skirts. Their usual attire was a shirt, which was belted with a belt of wool. And when it came time to put on adult things, then they performed a whole rite. The girl stood on the bench and walked on it back and forth. At this time, her mother followed her, holding an open pony in her hands, and persuaded her to "jump in." At first, the girl strictly refused, but then jumped into a ponev. At that time, every girl already knew in advance how ponevaya looks and what she symbolizes. After all, dressing with ponev was considered to make it clear to all unmarried guys that matchmakers could be sent to this girl. And on the Russian land in antiquity, not a single young woman refused to marry.
Appearance
What is poneva from the perspective of tailoring and sewing? Its main difference from the standard skirt is that traditionally, to create a poneva, three or more fabric sections were arranged. Usually, women were worn over their shirts, wrapped around the waist and fixed with a cord. In some regions, Poneva did not stay at the waist, but below or above it, depending on the fashion trend. In front of this skirt, a beautifully embroidered apron was also worn.
If you ask what poneva is in terms of composition, then the fabric for its manufacture includes hemp or nettle base, as well as woolen ducks. Some owners of this special skirt preferred a canvas lining.
Regional differences
To this day, all the elements of the Russian folk costume have survived, in which ponev occupies an important role. But it is noteworthy that in different Russian regions ponevs differed in coloring, cut and method of wearing.
As for the colors, there are a lot of options. Even each village could boast of its own ornament or special color scheme. The main type is a dark blue Ponev with a checkered pattern. In some places, black ponevs were more common, and in the territory of the Ryazan province women wore red striped skirts or blue smooth ones. Pure red color was used in the Voronezh and Tula provinces.
By tailoring, special women's skirts can be divided into the following: poneva oar, with firmware, blank, open at the front or side, typesetting. Swing, in turn, are divided into such as: rastopolka (in front of one panel, and behind two); raznopolka (all parts of different lengths). Such a fashion was of character for the Smolensk province. And in the Kursk, Kaluga and Oryol provinces, it was fashionable to wear an open pony at the front, sticking corners into the belt.
To leave for the city, the peasant women wore a ponevoy with a prowl. The seam was a fourth piece of fabric that could be temporarily sewn into the skirt in the front or side. Often this stitch differed from the base in color or was limited to strips of kumach.
There was also a Ponev type-setting, for which four pieces of fabric were immediately prepared. At the same time, three parts were traditionally checkered and one was monophonic, for example, black. All this was going to a special cord, which was called "endurance." The most important difference between typesetting poneva from all others is its colorful design.
Types of Jewelry
By tradition, it was customary to decorate ponev’s hem, stitching seams, cut edges, etc. For this, embroideries, paper ribbons, various stripes and rhombuses were used. In terms of decoration, there are also differences depending on the area.
So, in Voronezh, ponevs were decorated with bright orange embroidery from a woolen thread. Different sparkles and sockets were also added to it. And the poneva, in which the looped seam was used with red threads, was called “trinitka”. After this treatment, the fabric of the skirt looked like fur.
Differences in decoration and color selection of ponies were determined not only by belonging to a particular area, but also by its purpose. The most beautiful conceptual, of course, was considered wedding, several people were involved in the creation.