How to sew shorts on a pattern, with ease and without difficulty? First of all, you need to follow the entire sequence of technology to create a drawing. It is important not to forget to take into account the increase in freedom of fit, which provide movement and breathing. Consider the process of performing work on a specific example.
Measurements
How to make a pattern of women's shorts? To do this, you need measurements:
- ST - half waist.
- SB - half hips.
- PT - increase at the waist.
- PB is an increase in the straight line of the hips.
For example, take the following measurements:
- ST = 38 cm.
- Sat = 48 cm.
- Fri = 1 cm.
- PB = 1 cm.
Create a front part drawing
In the upper corner of the drawing, we build an angle from point T. The seat height must be correctly calculated.
The length of the seat is calculated by the formula:
In our example, TS = 48/2 + 1.5 = 25.5 cm. We postpone the resulting size from point T down.
The place of the hips line is calculated by the formula:
In our example, SB = 25.5 / 3 = 8.5 cm.
We postpone the resulting value from point W upwards and mark point B. From it, draw a horizontal line to the right. How to sew your own shorts on the pattern that we are building, will be described below. While we continue to build the front half of the shorts. The width on the seat line is calculated by the formula:
In our example, 1 = 0.5 (48 + 1) = 24.5 cm. We postpone this value from point and mark point 1.
The step width is determined by this formula:
Substituting our values, we get 12 = 0.1 (48 + 1) = 4.9 = 5.0 cm.
Set aside from point 1 to the right and mark point 2.
From point 1 we draw a vertical upward and at the intersection with horizontal T and horizontal B mark points T1 and B1. Connect the points B1 with the point 2 of the auxiliary line. We determine the fold line for this distance 2. Divide in half and put the point W3.
The fold line is calculated by the formula:
We get ShSh3 = 29.5 / 2 = 14.75 cm.
We draw a vertical through point 3, and from the point 1 we postpone the auxiliary point 4 and draw a vertical down.
The place where the auxiliary point should be is calculated by the formula:
In our example, 14 = 5.0 / 2 = 2.5 cm.
The fastener strip of the shorts is called the bow line. We postpone one centimeter to the left of the point T1 and put the point T11. Connect the points T11 and B1.
The position of the bow line at the waist T1T11 = 1.0 cm.
We determine the position of the auxiliary points D and B1. For the distance B1 and 2 we divide in half and set the point D.
Calculation of the location of auxiliary points:
- B1D = B1Sh2 / 2 = 5.0 cm.
- DD1 = DSh1 / 3 = 1.7 cm.
We connect the point D with the point 1 and on this line we postpone the distance DD1. A straight bow should be drawn through these points T11, B1, D1 and Sh2. Down from point 2 we lower the vertical.
How to sew shorts with your own hands? To do this, you need to finish the drawing and can be taken for needlework. We determine the width at the waistline using the formula below, and set this distance to the left of point T11. We put the point T3, up from which we postpone 1.5 cm and put the point T 31.
Waist Measurement:
- T11T3 = (ST + PT) / 2 + 2 cm (tuck).
- T11T3 = (38 + 1) / 2 + 2 = 21.5 cm.
The highest point on the side:
Connect the point T31 and T11. On both sides of the point T2 we postpone one centimeter. Connect the point T31 and point B of the line. From the point we lower the perpendicular down.
We simulate the belt. Sewing shorts is not an easy task for beginners. First you need to master the design and modeling, without missing sequences. Continuing to build the drawing, from the top edge on each side we postpone four centimeters down and connect the dots. When we cut the pattern and close the tuck, the belt will take a semicircular shape, which will ensure a good fit at the waist.
We simulate the entrance to the pocket. From the side cut horizontally, we postpone eleven centimeters - this is the width of the pocket, and lay 7 cm down. We connect these points with a semicircular line. Here is the finished pattern of the front and back halves of the shorts. Draw a bottom line and set the point N.
Build the back part
The back half of the shorts is created.
The place of the middle cut on the straight waist is calculated by the formula:
In our example, T2T4 = 1/3 = 10/3 = 3.3 cm.
Move this value to the right from point T2, set point T4. From point T4 we set the perpendicular and put point T5.
The belt product is calculated by the formula of trouser balance:
- T4T5 = 0.1 (Sat + Pb) - 1.
In our example, T4T5 = 0.1 (48 + 1) - 1 = 4.8 cm.
Connect the points T5 and Sh1 with a straight line, and at the intersection with the horizontal B mark point B3.
The step width is calculated by the formula:
- Sh1Sh5 = 0.2 (Sat + Pb) + 1.
Substituting our values, we get: 15 = 0.2 (48 + 1) + 1 = 10.8 cm.
Set the step width to the right of point 1 and set point 5.
Auxiliary points for creating a middle cut:
- D1 and 1 = 1.0 cm.
- 221 = 1.0 cm.
- 551 = 1.0 cm.
We find the auxiliary points for the formation of the middle cut according to these formulas, set aside one centimeter from these points D1, Sh2, Sh5 and put points 1, Sh21, Sh51. A line of the middle strip of the back half of the shorts is laid through points B3, 1, Sh21, Sh5. How to sew shorts on your own? Step-by-step operations will be described below. We finish the simulation.
Hip Measurement:
In our case, B3B4 = (48 + 1) - 24.5 = 24.5 cm.
Move the width on the hips to the left of point B3 and mark point B4. This is a cutting barrel.
Measurement on the straight waist is calculated by the formula:
- T5T6 = (ST + PT) / 2 + 3 cm (tuck).
For our values, T5T6 = (38 +1) / 2 + 3 = 22.5 cm.
The position of the point T6 is determined using two arcs that intersect each other. We draw the first arc from point B4, the radius of which is equal to the distance B4T31 up from point B4. The second arc is drawn from point T5, the radius of which is equal to T5T6 to the left of point T5. At the intersection of these two arcs, the point T6 is obtained.
The place of the back tuck T5T7 = 10 cm.
The location of the rear tuck: from the point T5 to the left, lay ten centimeters (the standard value for all sizes) and mark the point T7. Tuck length is ten centimeters, tuck solution is three centimeters. From point T7, lay one and a half centimeters in each direction and connect to the end of the tuck. How to sew shorts without experience and skills? A detailed description and recommendations for design and sewing will help you with this.
We simulate the belt: we postpone four centimeters on each side from the upper edge of the shorts and connect the points. Draw the bottom line of the shorts. We have finished designing the patterns of the front and back half of the shorts.
Tracing paper pattern
Now we transfer the drawing of shorts to tracing paper, do not forget to mark the control points with letters. Then we begin the simulation.
We remove the tuck from the front half. To do this, transfer its solution to the side seam, put off the tuck solution and draw a new side line. Draw a pocket.
Modeling a pocket
Burlap pocket modeled directly on the drawing. The fold of burlap runs parallel to the midline of the shorts. We circle the first burlap detail on which the cutting barrel is sewn. Next, we circle the second burlap part with a cutout for entering the pocket.
Modeling a cutting yoke
We will make a yoke down the middle cut. To do this, lay aside seven centimeters, and four centimeters along the side cut, connect the points when the tuck is closed. We get a yoke.
Patch pocket
We retreat two centimeters down from the yoke line and draw a parallel line. This will be the level of the patch pocket. Five centimeters retreat from the middle cut and draw a pocket. The flap pocket valve is sewn under the yoke and has a button in the middle.
The finished drawing on the tracing paper must be cut, prepare the fabric and the necessary accessories for the job. These are useful tips for beginners on how to sew shorts with your own hands.
Material
In order to determine exactly how much fabric we need and which one, you need to take a drawing from tracing paper with you to the store. The seller will definitely advise and tell you what footage to take so as not to be mistaken, because the width of all fabrics is different. How to sew shorts? We will help the pattern, built with your own hands.
Details for shorts:
- Front half - 2 pcs.
- Detail of the back - 2 pcs.
- Pockets on the front halves with detachable barrels and external burlap - 2 pcs.
- Internal burlap - 2 pcs.
- Patch pockets - 2 pcs.
- Valves - 2 pcs.
- Coquette - 2 pcs.
- Belt (fastener) - 4 pcs.
- Slope.
- Loops - 5 pcs.
Seam allowances:
- On the side and step sections, you need to add 1.5 cm.
- On average sections - 1cm.
- On the bottom of the product - 4 cm.
- For the remaining sections - 0.7 mm each.
Tailoring
It is necessary to grind all the tucks, and iron them to the line of the middle seam. How to sew shorts correctly? This requires equipment on which we will perform this simple work.
It is necessary to process pocket parts on the front halves, sew them to the right place and iron them. Then you need to sew patch pockets.
The next processing step is the valves. On them the coquettes on the back halves are adjusted, after which the WTO is applied.
It is necessary to complete the side seams, sew step sections. Then lay the line from the fastener mark (where the zipper will be) down to the step seams.
Zipper and other operations
With the help of sewing operations, you can make a zipper, and you need to iron everything.
It is important to know how to sew shorts where loops will be present. This operation is not complicated. The main thing is that their location is uniform along the belt. It is necessary to prepare five loops from a strip of fabric.
After that, they should be swept to the upper cuts of the halves of the shorts at the seams of the tucks. It is necessary to make the middle back seam to the edge of the top of the product.
Belt processing
Stitch the belt parts together. After that, sew a belt to the upper section of the shorts.
When the belt is ready, the belt loops must be turned up, their ends bent and stitched along the belt along the upper edge. On the right side at the end of the belt, process the loop. This completes the sewing of the product.