The art of knitting arose long ago. An inquiring human mind, even in ancient times, having looked at plant weaves in nature, applied this knowledge to its own benefit for the invention of subsequently the great craft of knitwear production.
Nowadays, the applied value of
knitted things has changed and expanded so much that manual art is not called anything other than art. Knitting is a huge segment in the total capacity and tools of this unique craft. And today we’ll deal with such a part of it as knitting with raglan patterns.
Raglan: what is it?
Let's start with the definition. Fashion history ascribes the name "raglan" to a special type of cut sleeves, drawn together with the shoulder part of the shelf and the back of the product, to the British military commander Baron Raglan, who, after losing his arm at the Battle of Waterloo, wore clothes made according to this principle. Thus, he masked the lack of a hand. No one knows if such a trick helped him, but the term “raglan” has taken root and since that time means precisely such a cut.
Raglan in jerseys
This type of clothing cut is convenient in many ways: it makes the shoulders soft, the absence of a seam eliminates the possibility of the product getting wet when it gets in the rain. Not only the seamstresses appreciated the principles of constructing such a sleeve. Knitters also long ago adopted it.
The knitting pattern for raglan sweaters is simple and convenient. There are two ways of such knitting - bottom and top. Starting work from the bottom of the elastic is probably more understandable for beginner needlewomen, but the correct calculation of raglan knitting from above makes it possible to learn a faster and more economical way of knitting, and also allows the knitter to significantly increase her skill level.
Raglan knitting on top: benefits
Getting started from the neck has many advantages:
- the absence of seams, which is of particular importance in the manufacture of children's clothing;
- Significant time savings on stitching parts;
- the possibility of changing the length in one direction or another, if the need arises;
- knitting raglan with knitting needles involves a small number of ends of the threads, and the dissolution of the product subsequently gives a thread quite suitable for new work.
Disadvantages of the method
Many consider the disadvantage of knitting raglan a large number of loops involved in the work (we consider knitting seamlessly in a circle), as well as a certain limitation in the choice of patterns - not all of them are convenient or even possible in circular knitting.
However, when acquiring the necessary skills and using simple devices and tools, the craftswoman quickly gets used to not noticing these inconveniences in work, since knitting a raglan from above is a fascinating needlework.
Tools and fixtures
The following tools are needed for a convenient and comfortable workflow:
- Circular knitting needles. It is advisable to have several pairs, differing in numbers and length of fishing line. The beginning of work and the elasticity of the neck of the “sweater-raglan” model with knitting needles, as a rule, are knitted small, in the future a transition to large tools will be required.
- Set of hosiery knitting needles (for knitting sleeves using a seamless method).
- Markers for marking sleeves, shelves and backs.
- Row counter (not always required, but when knitting in a circle it is often necessary).
Knit raglan from the neck: calculation of loop test
Before proceeding with the manufacture of the model, a loop test should be calculated. To do this, they knit a sample of the selected pattern from 35-40 loops 12-14 cm high. It should “lie down”, since knitted knitwear has a tendency to resize. You can wet it, dry it and steam it. After that, the density of knitting is calculated, i.e. through simple measurements with an overlaid ruler, they find out how many loops and rows are contained in one centimeter of a connected web.
A smaller measurement error is allowed if they are made in a square with sides of 10 cm. Then the indicators are divided by 10, so they get more reliable information about how many rows and loops fits 1 cm of the pattern chosen for the future model.
Since such a procedure is necessary, many professional knitters use a template that can be made by hand by cutting out a square with a side of 20 cm from thick cardboard or plastic. In the middle of the workpiece, cut another square with sides equal to 10 cm. A peculiar frame is obtained. It is superimposed on the sample. By counting the loops and rows included in the template, and then dividing them by 10, you can quickly find out the necessary information. For example, the knitting density of our loop test was 2.5 loops per 1 cm. 3 rows in the height of a sample of 1 cm.
Neck length calculation
Knitting raglan with knitting needles on top provides the correct calculation of the length of the neck. We have already set the knitting density, then we measure the circumference of the neck. According to accepted Russian standards, a 48th-size women's sweater has a neck length (or neck circumference) of 36 cm. It is necessary to measure the neck of the person for whom the future product is knitted, and according to accepted standards, the measurements can be adjusted.
So, the neck circumference is 36 cm. Given the calculated density - 2.5 loops per 1 cm, we find the number of loops necessary to start knitting - 2.5 x 36 cm = 90 loops.
Calculation of neck loops by segments
The correctly calculated number of loops determines the successful knitting of the raglan from the neck. The calculation is very important, but it should be borne in mind that the neckline of the back is significantly higher than the neckline of the front. That is why the easiest way to parse loops is based on a percentage ratio: 44-45% of the total number of loops falls on the neck of the front, 34-35% on the neck of the back and 10-11% on each shoulder.
It must be remembered that before starting the calculation of loops by segments, it is necessary to subtract loops from the total number of loops (90), which will be directly raglaned lines. There are four such lines. If a line in one loop is planned, then the total number of loops is reduced by 4 (1 x 4 = 4 loops), respectively, ragged lines in 2 loops each reduce the total number of neck loops by 8 (2 x 4 = 8 loops).
In our example, each raglan line consists of 2 loops, so the total number of neck loops for calculating by segments is 82 (90 - 8 = 82 loops). This will be the starting number for calculating:
• transmission 82 x 44% = 36 loops;
• backs 82 x 34% = 28 loops;
• shoulder segments 82 x 11% = 9 loops per part.
Beginning of work
We start knitting. You can start the raglan sweater with a neckline, but it’s better to tie it after the whole product is knitted. So, we collect 90 loops on the knitting needles in any way that provides an unstable elastic edge.
We knit the auxiliary row with facial loops and combine knitting in a circle. We make the marking of the future ragged lines and the central loop of the front. To do this, we use markers, safety pins or threads of contrasting shades, i.e. any convenient fixtures. The left ragged line will be considered the beginning of the row.
Sprouting
For a good fit of the future product, we start knitting raglan with knitting needles by tying the sprout, i.e. increase the height of the back by partial knitting and align the number of loops of the neck of the back to the number of loops involved in knitting the neck of the front. So, we knit raglan knitting needles. The scheme is as follows:
The first row (front) is knitted along the back from the left to the right raglan line. Raglan lines are knit in this way - yarn, 2 front, 3rd removed with a twist to avoid holes in the canvas. Then we turn the work over and knit the wrong row, ending it like this: remove the looped loop, knit 2 loops, a crochet, two loops of the raglan line.
We raise the 2nd increase of the ragged line from the broach and extend the partial knitting by knitting 2 loops, the third is removed with a loop. This continues 8 rows, each row of partial knitting adds 3 loops, as a result of which we get the same number of loops of the front and back. From the next row, the front loops also enter partial knitting; knitting continues in the same vein, gradually and carefully adding 3 loops in each row. The eighteenth row is the last in partial knitting. From the nineteenth row we make full knitting circles, adding in each front row on the yarn on both sides of the ragged line, and in each wrong side - knitting them.
The initial partial knitting of the raglan from the neck, the calculation of which only at first glance seems difficult, is important for a high-quality fit for the future product. In order not to confuse the rows, we use a counter. Thus, we knit to the height of the armhole.
Tying the product body
Raglan with knitting needles, the scheme of which is simple, fits 30-32 cm. This length of raglan lines is standard for a women's sweater of the 48th size. You can measure the height of the armhole and, multiplying by the number of rows of 1 cm, check with the standard. Trying will exclude the mistake: the raglan lines of both halves should meet under the armpit. Having knitted the required number of rows in the "raglan-sweater" model with knitting needles, we proceed to the formation of the product body.
On additional knitting needles (preferably a fishing line or thread), loops of the sleeves are removed, distributing the loops of raglan lines proportionally between all the details. The next row combines all the loops of the front and back and knit to a certain length in a circle, no longer making an increase.
If you want to make the sweater more feminine in shape, you can tighten the product by making calculations of the decrease to the waistline and additions to the hips. Decreases and increases are made along the seam line. The work is completed with an elastic band.
Sleeves
It’s easier to knit the sleeves in straight rows, but if you want to see them as seamless as the body, it is more convenient to work on stocking knitting needles, not forgetting to draw bevels, i.e. make reductions in every sixth row along the line of an imaginary seam.
As soon as the sleeve is tied to the cuff, they begin to knit a 2x2 elastic band from two front ones on the decrease line. It should not be tightened too much. After the first two front knit one wrong side, the next wrong side knit from the broach, continuing this algorithm. The second sleeve is knitted by analogy with the first.
Product gate design
As the sleeves are ready, it remains to tie the collar of the sweater. All loops of the neck are transferred to the spoke. The first additional row is carefully removed. Gathering loops for knitting gum, make the same increases as in the elastic bands of the sleeve, i.e. every second purl rises from the broach of the previous row. The collar height is also purely individual, or corresponds to the selected sweater model.
Raglan line design methods
In our example, we used the simplest raglan line, consisting of 2 facial loops. Often raglized lines act as magnificent decorative finishing. There are many options for knitting them: it can be intricate braids, stylized stitches and cascades of holes. Knitwear applications can also be knitted in different ways. The crossed loop does not form holes, and knitting the crochet with a simple loop forms a line of holes along the raglan.
So, the article presents the simplest knitting pattern for raglan. Nevertheless, even the most experienced craftswomen use this principle of model building in their works. Note that such a method as knitting a raglan from the neck, the calculation of which is quite simple, opens up many possibilities for decorating the model - from choosing a pattern to elegant design of the neck and raglan lines. The discovery of such a method of constructing a pattern of a model not only diversified the art of clothing production, but also elevated it to a higher level of development, nourishing the amazing ideas of skilled knitters.