Modern fashion offers a huge variety of types of clothing. Many models are equipped with decorative or highly functional collars and hoods. Most needlewomen who have a sewing machine would like to try to refine their clothes with such a cute detail. However, not everyone knows how to sew a hood. The pattern seems very complicated, and the work is almost impossible. In reality, this is not at all the case - we will try to help with this issue in this article.
Hooded collar pattern
Most models are a continuation of the top of the product. Thus, you can sew any hood, a pattern of fur, knitwear, leather or any other material is built approximately the same. The main difference will always be in the seam allowances and product depth. The pattern of the hood-collar will vary in shape and volume. With the size, everything is clear: there are large, medium, small and purely decorative mini-details of the top of clothes. But in form, there are a huge number of hood variations: suitable features are selected for the product in accordance with the model and style of clothing. The main rule when cutting the hood-collar is that the neck, as well as the sections of the shelf, will coincide with the line of fit. We will consider the simplest option, having mastered that it will be quite easy to modify it for any style and fabric.
Building Patterns: Beginning
In order to draw the correct diagram, you need to prepare a sharpened, but soft pencil, eraser, ruler and graph paper. Instead of a special, already drawn basis, you can take the remains of wallpaper or newspaper, but you will need to monitor the correct construction and evenness of all drawings. By the way, the pattern of the children's hood is no different from the adult, which means you can use the same construction scheme:
- Mark the point "O" and build a right angle from it.
- To find the correct position where the hood will be threaded into the neck, from the received point "O" you need to lay a segment of "O-KO". It will be equal to four or five centimeters - this value directly depends on the rise of the hood itself. For full or stooped people it is worth taking five centimeters.
The beginning has been made, at the next stage of creating the pattern, you need to take into account the model of clothing.
Improving fit
The pattern of the hood from the fur will require much less effort. Shaggy fabrics look good in bulk products and do not require special bends. However, in our universal pattern, we will consider creating a tap: from the “KO” point obtained in the previous step, we need to postpone a value that will be in the interval between zero and one centimeter. It is this figure that will show whether there is a tap at the hood in the center in the neck area. For effective head bending, such a tap is best done. At the end of the obtained segment, put the point "K".
Further construction of the hood
From the obtained point "K" we make a notch on the horizontal, which comes from point "O". This will be the “K1” point. To make such a mark on the stitching line, you need to use a radius that will be equal to the maximum width of the hood. To do this, you need to measure the length of the neck on the main drawing of the product or on ready-made clothing, to which a new part is sewn.
Explanation of this formula:
- The width of the hood is equal to the sum of the values of the length of the neck along the back + the same indicator in front + tuck solution + Ppos.
- Typically, the solution of the element "tuck" has a value from one and a half centimeters to three.
- Ppos (landing allowance - a constant value for all sizes) is from 5 mm to one centimeter.
Points K1 and K2
When a hood is created, the pattern should be as simple as possible, but clear. If the first attempt succeeds, you can transfer the drawing to an old oilcloth or a piece of cloth that does not spill along the edge to be used in the future. We continue to work:
- It is necessary to draw a line between the points "K" and "K1". From the obtained segment, it is necessary to lay the line "K-K2". It will be equal to the neck length already calculated above + the sum of Ppos with the tuck solution, divided by two.
- From the new point “K2” we build a perpendicular going up to the line “KK1”, where you need to put aside one or a half centimeters and put a new mark “K21”.
- The stitching line will go through the marks “K”, “K21” and “K1”.
- On the perpendicular, which has a base at the point "K2", you need to postpone the length of the future tuck. Usually its length is in the range between eight and twelve centimeters. From the point "K21" to the right and left we measure half the solution of our tuck. This is a fairly simple, but mandatory moment, very important for further cutting.
The design of the sides of the tucks
Recall that the pattern of the fur hood may not have any additional fitting lines. But tucks will still come in handy both when wearing and when building. To complete everything correctly, you need to know several indicators, among which:
- The height of the hood is the segment "KO" and "K3". It will be equal to VK + one to five centimeters and equal to Vgol + one to five centimeters. Explanation of the formula: Vk is the height of the hood, Vgol is the height of the head.
- From the “K3” mark to the right, you need to postpone a segment equal to the following indicator: Divide the bar into three, add five to nine centimeters and put a mark “K4”. Naked in this formula is the girth of the head.
- From the mark "K3" you need to draw a bisector in the direction to the right and down, it will be equal to three and a half - six centimeters. At the resulting point, put the mark "K31".
- From “K4” along the perpendicular, in the downward direction, measure a segment of 0-2 centimeters and get the mark “K41”.
Making future slices
Before stitching the hood, you need to draw a few more lines in the drawing. The occipital and upper sections of this model should pass through the marks "K41", "K31" and "K". In turn, the front edge must be formed using a smooth line that connects the marks “K1” and “K41”. Next comes the crucial time for cutting the product: you must remember to add allowances for future seams and do not accidentally cut out the space inside the tucks. They are always stitched, just folding the fabric in half - nothing needs to be cut! You need to sew using the same threads with which the whole product was sewn, and the seam and needle are selected depending on the type of fabric. If you choose a material that will not be strewed around the edges, you can sew a hood with seams to the outside. Such models will look good on teenage clothes and jackets for guys.
Another form of hood
There are a huge number of types of such parts. Some will look good on any model of clothing, while others are only suitable for tracksuits and windbreakers. The pattern of the hood-collar, which we examined, is considered universal, suitable for children's things, fur products and knitwear. But there are also other models, we will study some of them.
Hood helmet. A feature of this model will consist in tailoring its front end. It is constructed in an unusual way, based on the purpose of this part. The hood-helmet should protect your face from any weather and harsh wind. To construct this model in front, a special slope will be created, which identifies this type of upper part. The total number of tucks that are made along the neckline may vary in different ways. But those that we built above will be required. Design abilities in this model can be manifested in the design of the upper cut or the front part.
Hood for women coat
Since the volume of the classic model used for stylish women's clothing is quite large, it can be used for sewing in large fur coats and down jackets. Each wardrobe comes in handy with such a hood. Its pattern is built on the neck of the product. The main charm of such a drawing is that the shape of the line for sewing the part itself into the neck and the main line of the neck will follow one line. For competent and quick construction of such a hood, ready-made patterns of the back and front of the future product will be required. The tuck of the shoulder section must be transferred to the neck, and both patterns are combined along the line of the shoulder sections.
It doesn’t matter which hood the needlewoman liked, a little patience and basic knowledge of drawing drawings will help create truly unique models of clothing. Also, with the help of our recommendations, you can ennoble a coat or jacket, in which the collar was worn out. Children and men will like hood helmets that emphasize their inner strength and at the same time reliably protect their neck and face from wind and snow. Simple models of this part we have given in the photographs. Remembering the tucks and the fit line, you can build a pattern of absolutely any hood in one or two hours without nerves and rush.