Double-breasted jacket: from antiquity to modernity

A kind of jacket with sleeves was found already in the iron coffins of the Bronze Age. From this we can conclude that so popular today men's and women's clothing, was known in ancient times. Models of jackets now range from light overcoats without sleeves, reminiscent of leather shells, to jackets and summer jackets, which are sometimes difficult to distinguish from outerwear.

A short men's single-breasted or double-breasted jacket first appears in England at the end of the 19th century and is called “sack”. However, this piece of clothing also had a predecessor, which was already encountered in the Gothic era: it was a tight-fitting jacket that was extended and extended during the Renaissance, it was his Spain that was able to adapt to the rigor of the Jesuit counter-reformation. The jacket again becomes freer for the Baroque period. And by the second half of the 17th century, there were three main elements that make up a modern men's wardrobe - a single-breasted or double-breasted jacket, vest and trousers.

Under Louis 14, the jacket was called jusokor (fr. "Adjacent to the body") or camisole. It was knee-length, the fabric used was heavy, richly embroidered for sewing, the camisole had large pockets, wide sleeves and a large number of buttons.

What other types of jackets exist?

Until the moment when the usual double-breasted jackets appeared, they underwent a variety of changes in cut. For example, there were short men's jackets without a floor - katsafireki.

In the Biedermeier era, a tweed was popular - a slightly fitted or straight, throat-covered jacket that was sewn of light woolen fabric. Taid for a long time maintained its position as an integral part of the men's wardrobe.

An element of national costumes such as kamizola was widespread - it is a light jacket with short or long sleeves.

We all heard such a name as "Cossack." Now it is called a jacket with long floors, but this is not entirely true. Under this name different types of clothes worn at different times were combined. So, casague was a typical clothing of musketeers, had open hanging sleeves, it was worn from the 16th to the 19th century as outer clothing for the army. In the 19th century, the slightly fitted clothes to the crinoline were called Cossacks. And at the end of the 18th century, the long floors of the Cossack, decorated with buttons and a gown, became the embodiment of elegant clothing for traveling and riding.

Vams (doublet) was originally a fitted jacket on a cotton lining, which was worn under armor during the Middle Ages. And in the 15th to 17th centuries, clothes were worn under the upper cape; they were always made with sleeves and covered only the upper body. After the 18th century, it was completely replaced by a vest, which is now worn perfectly under a double-breasted jacket.

In the 14-16th century, short men's clothing - a jacket - was popular. Initially, it was meant as an element worn over a vass. The jacket had bag-shaped sleeves and a fringe-shaped ornament. And in the 16th century, the jacket took the form of short clothes with folds on the back and a deep neckline, the sleeves tapering to the wrist.

What is he - a double-breasted jacket?

A double-breasted jacket is already a modern variation on the theme. It differs from those described above in that it has two symmetrically wide floors that can be fastened both on one side and on the other side. For this, on each field there is a row of two or four pair buttons. Today, as a rule, one of these rows is decorative in nature, which is why the jacket fastens only on one side: this style has an additional hidden button - a jigger, which supports the second floor and prevents excess fabric from sagging.

In addition to the classic version, there are also modern ones - for example, casual. This style allows you to not fasten the lower button on the side of the right hand.

Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/F8788/


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