“And on Tverskaya, and on Tverskaya, the smell of witchcraft coffee ...” was a popular song with such words in the 90s of the past century. Everyone who knew and loved Moscow well purred it under their breath with pleasure. However, for those who are familiar with this wonderful city only by books, movies and television shows, the names "Arbat", "Boulevard Ring", "Chistye Prudy" sound like music. One of such famous places will be discussed.
Historical reference
Of course, you already guessed: this is Tverskaya Boulevard. It got its name from the street to which it originally adjoined. This event happened at the end of the 18th century, or rather, in 1796. However, it is worth looking even deeper into the past.
The principality of Moscow was a tasty booty for the
Crimean Tatars. From their raids, the land of Russia has long been moaning. And in the place where Tverskaya Boulevard is now located, a thick fence wall that towered on an earthen rampart was once rebuilt. Muscovites led by architect F. Kon laid it out of white stone, in several rows. And inside, behind the fence, people settled in, upset at home.
When the enemy was advancing, the townspeople fought from the walls of the White City. By the way, a historical fact: it was the fortress walls that sent Kazy Giray into fear at the time, who refused to storm Moscow. When the restless neighbors calmed down, the Russian state grew stronger and was no longer afraid of foreign raids, there was no need for fortifications. The walls were dilapidated and crumbled, and in 1774 it was decided to demolish them to improve the city, level the land in the district and plant trees - in the manner of western parks. So there was Tverskaya Boulevard - the oldest in Moscow, the largest in the city, known and loved by both locals and guests of the capital.
Restructuring, restructuring
Naturally, this historic place has changed its appearance. Before the first trees had taken root, they were squeezed by the buildings of the townspeople who had actively begun the development of the free territory. Residential houses, trading shops and shops were sculpted at the speed of swallow's nests. And the mayors had to almost fight for Tverskaya Boulevard. Yes, and birch trees, although native Russian trees, did not feel comfortable in the hot Moscow climate. Therefore, soon the white-barrel beauties were replaced by less whimsical, but fragrant lindens. It was then that the innovation was finally appreciated by the townspeople who finally felt like Europeans. Moreover, the architect Karin, who ennobles this project, put a lot of soul and talent into the business.
Boulevard of "new time"
From that distant time to the present day, Tverskaya is the Moscow boulevard, the most popular for walks and meetings. It is worth mentioning that he survived a radical reconstruction in 1812, when the French captured Moscow, and one of the camps was organized on the boulevard. Trees that did not go into bonfires (as you recall, it was winter), burned during a fire. But in the future they quickly restored the boulevard, decorating it with statues and busts of great people, picturesque arbors and sculptures, fountains and bridges, rotundas. In the new pastry shop you could enjoy airy cakes and delicious chocolate. A military brass band played popular tunes. The buildings built along it then and later bore the bright seal of classicism. Then came the apartment
buildings in the modern and eclectic
style . Most of them are now monuments of architecture of federal significance and are protected by law.
Cultural life and leisure
In our life everything flows, everything changes. So the boulevard in the second half of the 19th century again experienced a period of decline. The last Russian emperor even appointed special caretakers from city officials to be exclusively engaged in the improvement of Muscovites' cultural leisure places. He especially benefited from the decree of Tverskaya Boulevard. The exhibition of book novelties, held here for the first time at the beginning of the last century, has become a good annual tradition, as well as book bazaars.
In the mezzanine floor of the Pukolova-Krekshina mansion, exhibitions of works by Russian artists were held. At one of them, Tretyakov saw the painting "Princess Tarakanova" and bought it for his gallery. Currently, Tverskaya is one of the most convenient Moscow boulevards, as if specially adapted for organizing social events.
On its alleys there is a magnificent photo exhibition of Swiss landscapes. There were exhibitions on the space theme. On the boulevard, you can still join in the work of artists, only modern ones.
Restaurants and coffee houses
Speaking about the sights, one cannot but mention the restaurant on Tversky Boulevard. More precisely, a few.
Firstly, this institution “Pushkin” is an elite place, regulars of which are the stars of politics, show business, secular lions and lionesses, explicit and secret millionaires, or simply very rich people.
The halls of the restaurant in their interior contain antiques: furniture, tapestries on the walls, dishes and much more. Each of the halls is decorated in a unique individual style, luxurious, noble, beautiful.
The second catering establishment is the Bagel Cafe and Confectionery. Tverskaya Boulevard is loved by celebrities. And it is not surprising that the “Bagel” sign indicates: “Ksenia Sobchak’s Cafe”. The pastries there are wonderful, and the prices are affordable even for students. At least that's what they say!
Walk to Pushkin and not only
Since 1880, a monument stood at the end of the street, perpetuating the memory of such a great Russian poet as A.S. Pushkin. Tverskaya Boulevard was the first place in Moscow where such a monument was erected. The sculpture of Opekushin stood in its place for 70 years, until in 1950 the monument was moved to Pushkin Square. Two more remarkable monuments decorate the boulevard - monuments to Timiryazev and Yesenin. And the third “exhibit” of Tversky already refers to natural monuments. This is the famous Pushkin oak, which is more than 230 years old. Under his canopy it’s so nice to sit and think about the eternal ...