The fashion for the skirt model is changing, but there is a constant classic that is always in trend. Strict skirts, pencil skirts and pleated skirts are still relevant today. Only the length mod changes, it jumps above the knee, then below.
Skirts with bow folds that reach about the middle of the calf are now in fashion. For tailoring products use the thinnest lightweight fabrics, and dense, which perfectly keep their shape.
This model emphasizes a thin waist and looks great on tall and small women. It goes well with stilettos and flat shoes. Depending on what fabric the product is sewn from, you can wear a skirt even with moccasins.
Creation of a pattern of a skirt with pleats
Having a pair of skirts with pleats of different colors, you can create several additional images. Patterns of skirts with bow folds are built quite simply. Such a model does not require the construction of a drawing, but for the first time you can practice on paper to understand how to correctly draw and lay the folds. The fabric can shift during operation, and the folds will be of different widths. If you practice initially on paper, it will be easier to deal with the fabric. In order to sew a skirt with bow folds, one evening is enough.
Fabric selection and calculation
First of all, you need to buy fabric. For summer, it is worth choosing thin lightweight fabrics. In the fall, dense fabrics are suitable, it is possible with the addition of wool. It is also worth considering your complexion. For lush hips, you should not pick up very dense fabrics, they will add even more volume.
Next, you should determine the length of the product and buy two lengths of fabric plus a margin for the belt. If the length of the product is 1 meter, then you need to buy 2 meters of fabric + 10 cm per belt, 1 cm will also be used for sewing on the belt and 5 cm for hemming the bottom. Total 2 m 16 cm.
Auxiliary stages for beginners
In order not to make mistakes with the calculations and not to redo the work, it is better to make a pattern on tracing paper, it is much easier to mark all the calculations on it. Such a blank can be used more than once, but for different fabrics and with different lengths.
If you have confidence in your actions, you can do everything right away on the fabric. To build a drawing you need to have two measurements. The first is the length, and the second is the waist circumference (OT). The first measurement was used to calculate the fabric per product, i.e. its length. The second measure is needed to calculate the width of the fabric. If OT = 70 cm, then the width of the fabric should be three times greater, this additional fabric will be laid in folds. Also, do not forget about seam allowances.
So (70 * 3) +6 cm (side seams of 1.5 cm) = 216 cm.
Crease calculation
The main element in such a skirt is a bow fold. How to calculate number of folds? It is worth remembering that the folds can be of different widths, small and large. Take a centimeter tape or ruler and see what width visually suits you. Take for example a fold of 7 cm wide.
70 (FROM): 7 (crease width) = 10 (number of creases). In this model there will be 10 folds. 5 on the front panel and 5 on the back.
Work with fabric
It is advisable to write down the main data so as not to confuse anything, let it be before your eyes.
Patterns of skirts with bow folds are transferred to the material from tracing paper or drawn with tailor's chalk on the wrong side of the fabric. Before you open the matter you need to iron. 10 cm can immediately be cut off to a belt and glued with doubler, even if it lies so far.
But first, cut the fabric into two cuts of 1.6 m and fold them face to edge. Edges can be cut immediately, they do not go to work. The width of the skirt was a total of 216 cm, divide it by 2.
216: 2 = 108 (the length of one panel). From the cut edge, put 108 cm and hold it at an angle of 90 degrees down. Get two segments 1.08 x 1.60.
Assembly parts
For convenience, the edges can be chipped with pins so that the fabric does not travel under the presser foot and stitch the edges of the product. On the one hand, do not stitch to the edge, but leave 18-20 cm for stitching zippers. The stitched side edges must be processed on the overlock so that the fabric does not crumble. If there is no overlock, you can get by with a zigzag. Iron the seams through the iron.
Next, you need to process the bottom, with a hall of tissue 2.5 cm * 2 on the bottom. So it leaves 5 cm, which were originally laid on the hem of the bottom, it remains 1 m 1 cm. Iron the bottom, work with the iron through an iron, so that there is no gloss on the fabric.
Folds are the most crucial moment
Correctly laid folds are a guarantee of success
Half of the work has already been done, a little more - and a fluffy skirt, with hands made, will be ready. Most importantly, slowly go through this stage so that the folds are even, the whole look of the product depends on it.
We decided that the width of one fold is 7 cm. In order to form it correctly, you will need three times as much fabric.
7 * 3 = 21 cm is the amount of fabric that will go into one fold. How to lay a bow fold? It is necessary to mark a section of 21 cm by 7 cm. There will be 3 such sections. The middle section - 7 cm - will come to the fore. Two side parts of 7 cm are divided by 2, it turns out 3.5 - this is the depth of the fold. The remaining folds are formed in the same way. Each bend needs to be fixed with pins.
The final stages in tailoring a skirt with bow pleats
The next step will be the sewing of a zipper, you can use a secret or regular.
We pass to the belt. There are different patterns of skirts with bow folds. There are models when instead of a belt a coquette is cut, but such a product is more difficult to sew. In our version there will be a skirt with an ordinary belt, so we take the already prepared section glued with doubler. OT = 70, which means that the length of the belt should be 70 cm + 2 cm on the side seams + 3 cm for the button or button.
Belt length 70 + 2 + 3 = 75. It turned out to be 5 cm in width. To stitch it to the skirt, it would go 1 cm on each side. The finished belt will be 4 cm wide.
Sew the edges of the belt from the wrong side, unscrew and iron the belt from the front side, now you need to sweep it to the skirt and pull out the pins. A little more work - and a fluffy skirt with your own hands will be done.
When the belt is swept, you can make the last fitting and make sure that the product sits well on the figure.
First we attach the belt on the wrong side, and then we attach the edge on the front side so that the seam looks even and neat.
The last detail is a button or button. If you stop on a button, you will also have to sew a loop for it.
Patterns of skirts with bow folds are easy to build, and to sew such a skirt is also easy. But you can hear a lot of compliments about your appearance.