The Slutsk belt (photo on the left) is a national treasure of Belarusians, a historical symbol and brand of the country, as well as an example of applied art of the 18th century. However, in modern Belarus there are very few of them left.
For example, for several years in Minsk, belts from Russia, Ukraine and Lithuania were exhibited in the National Art Museum . So, let's remember how this art was created and what fate awaited it.
The mistake of scientists
The history of the Slutsk belts originates in the 16th century, in the Commonwealth. It was then scientists that caused them to appear. Historians have expressed the opinion that the gentry class comes from the ancient steppe people, which is known from the annals of the Romans and Greeks, the Sarmatians. It was this assumption that triggered the development of a new ideology in the 17th century - Sarmatism. Aristocrats liked this statement, and they began to consider themselves the descendants of this steppe people, and commoners - immigrants from the Slavs and the Baltic.
Since the Sarmatians were people from the East, silk belts that were imported from Persia and Turkey in the 18th century began to be very popular with the gentry. Such a belt was considered a symbol of the wealth and power of its owner, as well as an important component of the so-called “Sarmatian” costume. Thus, it was the fallacy of historians that caused the phenomenon of Slutsk belts.
Production start
In the XVIII century, the gentry in the Commonwealth made up about 15% of the population. Therefore, the demand for silk Turkish belts was quite large. And, as they say, demand creates supply.
Then hetman of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, Mikhail Kazimir Radzivil, put forward the idea of producing fabrics according to the Turkish model on Belarusian lands. In 1757, on his orders, a loom was secretly taken out of Turkey . However, this was only half the battle. Still needed a master who knew how to cope with technology and knew Turkish customs. And such was found. Hovhannes Majaryants is a master from Istanbul, who then lived in the city of Stanislav. The people called him Yan Madzharsky. So in the Commonwealth appeared the first Slutsk belts. The factory (manufactory) was originally located in Nesvizh, but later (in 1762) it was moved to Slutsk. There she worked the rest of the time. Hence the corresponding name of the product.
Pinnacle of excellence
Initially, only craftsmen from Istanbul worked in the Slutsk manufactory. But later, local weavers also mastered the technology, and oriental ornaments and patterns on the belts were replaced by local motifs.
Twenty-five years (starting in 1781), the leaseholder of the factory was Leon Madzharsky, the son of the Turkish master who laid the foundation for production on Belarusian lands. For the continuation of his father's business, as well as high successes and achievements in this field, he was awarded the state award, received the rank of chamberlain and noble title.
The skill of local weavers grew by leaps and bounds. So, the highest level of production was the bilateral four-faced Slutsk belt. Such a thing was very universal: it was worn both on holidays and on mourning. According to Turkish customs, only men could become masters.
According to legends, if a female hand touched gold or silver threads, they faded. Therefore, women were not even allowed close to the loom. To master the production technique, men underwent seven-year training. And this despite the fact that their business was only to weave. All patterns and ornaments were invented separately by artists.
Copycats
The belt has become a necessary item in the wardrobe of any self-respecting aristocrat. The products of Slutsk manufactory were very successful and soon displaced their eastern competitors from the market. The profitability of the enterprise prompted neighboring countries to repeat this success.
So, King of the Commonwealth Stanislav Augustus Poniatowski decided to open a weaving factory in the city of Grodno. And he asked the Radzivilov for a master who could establish production. However, he was denied. But, despite this, the factory in Grodno opened. Slutsk belts began to be faked everywhere: starting from Warsaw and ending with the French city of Lyon.
To deal with counterfeit goods, the Radzivilov factory began to label their products. So, on each Slutsk belt, a label was inscribed that indicated the place of production: “Me fecit Sluciae” or “Sluck”. When the Belarusian lands were part of the Russian Empire - “In the city of Slutsk”.
Manufactory Sunset
But bad times came for Slutsk manufactory. The third section of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth in 1795 marked the beginning of the victorious procession of French fashion. The assortment of Slutsk belts was sharply reduced. At first they were simply hidden in chests, and then they began to donate to churches and churches. Some were burned in order to obtain precious metals. One Slutsk belt contained up to one hundred grams of silver and gold.
1831 was a turning point in the history of manufacture. After the uprising, the Russian authorities completely forbade wearing gentry suits, and consequently, belts. In 1848, the factory in Slutsk was closed.
Account per unit
The Belarusian historian Adam Maldis calculated that during its existence the Slutsk factory produced about 5 thousand belts. And each of them is unique and inimitable. After the belts lost their practical use at the end of the 19th century, they became an artistic value. Both museums and private collectors began to collect them. For example, the famous and successful Russian merchant Schukin hunted them for about two decades and bought from Vilnius and Warsaw antique dealers. He bequeathed his collection to the State Historical Museum. And, according to experts, it consists of 60 fragments and 80 whole belts.
There is historical evidence that in 1939 32 belts were stored in the Nesvizh Castle of the Radzivilov, of which 16 were Slutsk. The collection was transferred to the State Art Gallery of the BSSR. However, during the years of German occupation, it disappeared without a trace.
To date, only 11 belts have survived in all of Belarus, of which 5 are Slutsk, and the rest are copies made abroad. In general, it is practically impossible to name the exact number of these art objects located in Russia, Poland, Ukraine, Lithuania and other countries.
Today in Slutsk
Since 2012, in Belarus, on behalf of the President, a State program has been operating whose task is to revive the traditions and production technologies of the Slutsk belts.
On the site of the old manufactory are the buildings of the RUE “Slutsk belts”. This enterprise was formed in 1930 as an artel, uniting embroiderers and weavers engaged in folk crafts and possessing the corresponding skills and craftsmanship. In 2011, the company turned 75 years old. The main products manufactured at the factory are bedspreads, towels, napkins, dolls and souvenirs. All this is done manually on special looms - Krosna.
Since 2012, the Slutsk Combine began to produce copies of the Slutsk belts, as well as various souvenirs with their motifs (accessories for books, keys, telephones, art panels, etc.). The years of studying the secrets of weavers and the artistic features of the masterpieces of the XVIII century were not in vain - the company has recreated a long-forgotten unique technology. So, the first Slutsk belt (photo) - an ideal copy of a historical masterpiece - was presented to the President of the Republic of Belarus. Today it adorns the Palace of Independence.
Products "Slutsk belts" today are very popular. Here you can buy beautiful tablecloths, Belarusian towels, napkins and much more. And these are not just things, but real works of art.
Museum of Slutsk belts
The company has a unique museum. There you can see with your own eyes copies and fragments of masterpieces, modern options, as well as watch how they are made.
The Museum of the History of Slutsk Belts includes several halls. The first zone is “Strata of History”. Here you can see how the appearance of the Slutsk belts has changed in different periods of time, among different peoples.
The Slutsky Belt zone boasts an original work of art of the 18th century, as well as its copies and fragments. And in the “Manufactory” department you can get acquainted with the state of production of the XVIII century.
The hall "Fragment of the Radzivils Palace" is a recreated piece of the Nesvizh castle of that time. After all, the Radzivils were representatives of one of the richest, most influential and noble Polish-Lithuanian clans. Their castle was furnished with luxurious furniture, decorated with paintings by famous artists and covered with Persian rugs. In contrast to the noble chambers in the People’s Zone, you can also see how ordinary people lived.
The museum has a unique machine designed by the German company Mageba, especially for the reconstruction of the Slutsk belts. It is controlled by two computers, contains 6 shuttles and 1,200 threads. There are no analogues of such a machine in the world.
Issue price
Today, unique equipment recreates the Slutsk belts. How much are such masterpieces? According to the leading artist of the factory, copies of Slutsk belts will cost buyers from 10 to 50 million Belarusian rubles. This is from 1000 to 5000 US dollars.
Not cheap, let’s say so. Where does this price come from? Even today, using modern technology, it’s a lot of work. It takes about 60 hours to create one belt! The process uses very thin natural silk threads containing silver and gold. And if you increase the speed of production, they can break. The final price is calculated depending on the length of the belt, as well as the amount of precious metals used for sewing it.