For several seasons in a row, bomber jackets have not left fashion catwalks, and it’s just comfortable everyday clothes. Today's models are not much like the original American jackets for pilots of military aircraft, so the options are significantly increased. You can sew a bomber with your own hands (see the patterns below) for cold weather. There are many models: a romantic jacket, casual or sports. The bomber pattern is a simple pattern with a minimum of details, so even a novice needlewoman will cope with sewing a fashionable update. As skills improve, models can be complicated: sew a lining, make kangaroo pockets or standard, detachable sleeves and a hood, sew different decor.
Traditional bombers
The first bombers appeared during the First World War. Pilots in conditions of low temperatures and the absence of protective glasses in the cockpits of combat aircraft needed exceptionally warm and windproof clothing, so the military departments of the United States and many European countries began actively to develop new uniforms. The British launched the mass production first, then the Americans presented their version of the bomber. Later models were already designed for use in heated cabins.
American pilots often sewed chevrons, squadron emblems, and other insignia on jackets. This trend has persisted to the present: bomber jackets are often decorated with a large number of massive stripes. But the most recognizable detail - a bright orange lining - the American bomber jacket acquired much later. Such models appeared only in 1963. In the event of a bailout or emergency landing, the pilot turned the jacket inside out to facilitate the rescue operation.
Features
Bomber is often used not only as casual, but also as elegant clothes. Such a jacket may well replace a strict jacket at semi-official events. In this case, the product is made of rather expensive chiffon, silk, wool or even lace. It seems that any jacket with a zipper can be called a bomber, but in fact it is not. In order for the bomber to be recognizable, it is enough to withstand three main signs.
Firstly, the jacket has a loose silhouette, usually sewn without tucks. Secondly, a bomber jacket is a single-breasted jacket. The fastener is made with a zipper, and the slider usually makes it possible to unzip the bomber from the bottom and from the top. Thirdly, knitted elastic is usually sewn on the bottom of the sleeve and jacket. In the case of flirty models, this part can be replaced with a satin stretch canvas or ribbon. At the same time, the width of the "gum" can increase to 20 cm.
It features a jacket and a neckline. Usually it has a rounded shape, it is processed with the same fabric as the bottom and sleeves. It can be a traditional finishing gum, silk, satin or eco-leather. The collar can be made of the main fabric in the form of a turndown or high stand. Pockets are optional, although they will not interfere for convenience. They can be traditional or made in the form of a kangaroo. Classic American bombers stand out with a bright orange lining, but a jacket can be made without it.
Types of Bomber Jackets
A bomber jacket is a very comfortable model of a jacket that does not constrain movements and is quite unpretentious to wear. Some models can protect from rain or snow, but mostly these are clothes for warm spring or autumn. Often needlewomen are looking for a pattern of an elongated bomber, because most models are traditionally short and not suitable for cool weather.
There are three main types of bombers. At a fashion show in the spring of 2016, Gucci Fashion House introduced a glamorous jacket. Such models sew from dense crepe satin or silk, decorative brocade. These materials are not too hard, and crepe satin can be used without additional lining. To make the silhouette sharper or to highlight some details, make a lining of organza, georgette or other light tissues. Both shiny and matte plain fabric, oriental ornament or intricate patterns for decoration are suitable.
A sports bomber is a modern approach to a conventional windbreaker. Standard manufacturing materials: viscose, jeans, neoprene, knitwear, velveteen, ponte. The color is usually plain, with elastic bands used as a minimal decor. A bomber can be feminine. Cocktail jackets are made of light fabrics: brocade, georgette, mesh, brocade, silk. Such products are characterized by floral patterns and floral prints.
Materials and Tools
How to sew a women's bomber jacket on a pattern? For starters, you can use the universal finished pattern, which is suitable for growth of about 170 cm and sizes from 42 to 50. For such a product, you will need about 2 meters of knitted mesh fabric, 0.5 meters of ordinary knitwear to match the jacket, zipper, sewing machine, scissors and needles, 0.5 m fabric with faux fur for monogram decoration.
Female bomber pattern
Only an experienced needlewoman will be able to properly build a pattern on her own, while the rest is better to use the finished option. For the simplest jacket, only the basic elements are needed: a back, a shelf and sleeves. The standard bomber pattern can be adjusted according to the figure, taking as a basis a jacket that is good for you in size. Remember to add seam allowances and allow for shrinkage of the fabric. The fabric for sewing a bomber is recommended to be washed and ironed with a hot iron before cutting to avoid distortion during operation.
According to the standard model, a bomber pattern is developed for a girl or boy, a man or a teenager. Sometimes it’s enough to add a few decorative details in the appropriate style so that a unisex jacket is worn with pleasure by a small fashionista who loves pink ruffles, or a teenager who refers to a specific subculture.
Fragment Preparation
For cutting on a bomber pattern, fold the fabric in half. Then line one side and two identical fragments along it: the front and back. At this stage, you need to add about a centimeter on each side to the seam allowances. The back part can be set aside for now, and the front part fold in half again and cut along the fold. In this place lightning will pass. Next, you can proceed to the cutting of details for the sleeves for the pattern of a female bomber jacket. Fold the other section of the canvas in half and cut out the necessary elements, not forgetting to add a centimeter for the seam on each side.
Stitching jacket parts
The back and front parts must be connected at the shoulder seams. At first it is better to fix everything with needles, and only then to machine. Following are attached parts for the sleeves. To find the middle of the fragment, a piece of fabric needs to be folded in half. Place the center of the part in the upper middle of the circle for the sleeve of the product. Expand to make sure everything is done smoothly. A straight stitch should start from the middle, heading to the front of the jacket, then from the middle to the back. After you need to fold the seams that come from under the sleeves, connect them with pins and attach. It remains only to flash the sleeves from the junction with the base to the wrist.
Bottom gum insert
How to sew a bomber on a pattern? When the base is ready, it remains to insert an elastic band, form cuffs and a collar, as well as sew decorative elements. For the bottom strip, prepare a knit fabric. To cut the desired length of elastic, first measure your hips with a centimeter tape. The elastic should be slightly shorter than the actual length of the bottom of the bomber. The width of the strip may be different. Optimal - about 12 cm. The lower part of the strip is sewn in a zigzag along with the base. The upper part must be left unfolded for connection with a zipper, and then fixed with a hidden seam.
Cuff shaping
To form the bomber cuffs, you need to cut off a piece of regular knitted fabric measuring 12 cm wide and 20 cm long. The length must be adjusted to the size of the wrist. The ends of the sleeves are inserted into the cuff and fixed with sewing pins. Inside, the cuff is attached with a zigzag stitch. Outside you need to make a hidden seam.
Collar Formation
To form a collar, you need to measure the neck of the product. Cut a suitable strip of length from a regular knit fabric. To make the collar line smooth in front, cut the corners at the ends of the strip diagonally. Then fix the fragment of the collar around the neck of the jacket and sew this piece of the product.
Monogram patch
Sample decor can be done using a stencil. Cut letters, numbers, or a silhouette from faux fur fabric, and then attach them to the finished product from the back or front. Usually the decor is glued or sewn. If you chose the first option, then a sheet of paper should be put inside the bomber jacket so as not to stain other parts of the clothes.
Lined bomber jacket
It’s a little more difficult to sew a lined model, but if you approach the matter responsibly, even a beginner needlewoman will cope. The most difficult thing is to connect the lining with the sides and the collar. The main connection points are the inside of the collar, the insertion point of the sleeve (usually the bomber sleeves remain thin, in some models they are attached with a zipper so that a vest can be made from a jacket), the lower part of the product. Traditionally, the lining should be orange, but you can choose any material and color.
Other bomber patterns
Using the same technology, you can sew a men's, children's or teenage bomber jacket. The difference will only be in the size of the pattern and the fabrics used. In most cases, it is enough to reduce the size of the parts. The pattern of the male bomber is distinguished by straight lines and clear shapes, while in a product designed for women, you can slightly lower your shoulders.
How to wear a bomber jacket?
A bomber is a good option for the offseason. You can wear a warm sweater for a free model, and when it gets warmer - wear with a T-shirt or shirt. Today, there are very few companies that produce bombers in the original design (originally it was the clothes of American pilots), and the fashion industry has offered many options for stylish images with romantic, sporty and casual bombs. Of course, this only played into the hands of fashionistas.
Bomber stitches from wool, leather and even suede, add quilted sleeves or apply bright prints on the entire surface of the jacket. You can wear such products with jeans as well as dresses or skirts; stylish and concise bomber suits for semi-official events. According to the pattern of a children's bomber, you can sew a universal product that will be combined with jeans and plain trousers. If we talk about more or less traditional models, then do not abuse other elements in the military style. Maximum - rude boots and dark jeans.