There are types of needlework that a machine cannot replace. Crochet, bobbins, cross-stitch (simple and Bulgarian), hand-made sewing of “haute couture” clothes cannot be replaced by work done in a machine way.
The emergence of simple seams
But now there is a choice - manual embroidery or machine. And there were times when seams, especially primitive ones, did not decorate clothes, but simply and roughly fastened together their details. The simplest seams arose, to which the goat seam belongs. But, as you know, “amulets” arose almost earlier than clothes as such. Dictated by fear of nature, drawings of tribal talismans and amulets were transferred to clothes first with paints, later with threads. That is, the history of the appearance of seams goes back to antiquity. It is older than the origin of the canvas and the art of dressing hides. All the more touching is the fact that the firmware of the clothes (the seam “goat” in particular) has reached our days, is gaining popularity, it is becoming extremely popular.
Russian character of the goat seam
It is documented that the first embroidery originated in China. Perhaps this refers to embroidery on silk, but on coarse canvas and leather, it may very well be that the priority belongs to the north of Russia.
Gradually, all the clothes of our ancestors began to get off with the help of this type of needlework - both male and female. Embroidery becomes artistic. But even complex, beautiful, multifaceted patterns are still associated with idolatry. With the advent of Christianity, a cross appears in embroidery, and the “goat” seam takes on a new life. It is very similar to a cross with the intersection of stitches not in the center, but closer to the edges. The small crossed ends of the stitch resemble horns. Perhaps that is why it is called so affectionately.
Multifunctionality of the goat stitch
From the whole group of simplest seams: “forward the needle”, vestibule, buttonhole, stalk - the “goat” seam is the most popular and multifunctional. Such an important section of tailor's art as hemming the hem and sleeves of women's clothing is impossible without it, especially on thin fabrics. Even with a large number of adhesive or double-sided adhesive sewing tapes, the trousers should be hemmed. It is more beautiful, and more practical, and more durable.
Despite primitiveness, the goat seam can be subjected to a large number of metamorphoses. You can optionally vary the length of the stitch and its endings, each time a new pattern will be obtained. You can reduce the pitch of the pattern, and leave the stitch long. You can even connect the ends of the stitches. It turns out a completely different picture. And you can make a "goat" double and triple, with contrasting threads or threads of the same color in different tones. This "goat" will be called velvet, and in the case of multi-colored threads, "plaid", as it is very similar to the color of the kilt - the national Scottish men's skirt. This seam, along with the herringbone, is also referred to as contour seams. These are neat convex seams. To obtain a spectacular embroidery, it is recommended to first draw two parallel lines on the fabric, the distance between which is equal to the stitch in the line “goat seam”. Scheme with the numbering of actions can also serve as an excellent help.
Embroidery technique with this seam
In any kind of needlework, certain skills are required. So, the “goat” seam - how to sew in this way? When hemming, the tucked-up part of the bottom of the skirt is attached to the fabric as fashionably more often, performing the function of overcasting, but there should be no trace of thread on the front of the product. That is, one must be able to capture not only the thread, but even a part of it, especially if the fabric is thin. The embroidery or hemming process itself proceeds as follows: the needle "looks" from right to left, but advances the other way around. All the upper stitches, as well as the lower ones, are ideally made at the level of one weft thread (at the top - your own, at the bottom - your own), in order to ensure standardization and clarity of the pattern. The number of picked up longitudinal threads should also be exactly the same, both below and above. On the front part of the product, a pattern is obtained, and on the inside, the same rows of parallel columns are obtained (only when embroidering). The whole process suggests that the “goat” suture is done manually, and only manually.
Role of the goat
In needlework, especially when it comes to sewing, there is such a division: seams on fabric and seams in fabric. The latter are obtained by pulling out several adjacent longitudinal threads, if necessary, then with further strict alternation. Having prepared the canvas or some part of it in this way, proceed to further artistic processing of the product. And here the “goat” finish is very appropriate, especially if the thread is of a contrasting color, the edges of the resulting thinned seam in the fabric. If there are several of them, then one or two lines of “goats” can be inserted between them. Red on white is very impressive. And if you combine several types of stitching and contour seams, you get an exclusive for a store selling handicrafts. A hemstitch made with plain threads trimmed with goat embroidery was used to decorate wedding dresses. To perform complex drawings, in which the seam “goat” is involved, a diagram is simply necessary.