Mount Elbrus is the highest not only in the Caucasus, but also in Europe. This is a cone of an extinct volcano with two peaks, whose height is 5642 meters (western peak) and 5621 meters (eastern peak). Between them at a height of 5325 meters is a deep saddle.
Climbing Elbrus attracts the attention of not only domestic climbers. Climbers from near and far abroad come to test themselves and admire the views that open from the peaks.
Climbing routes
Danger during climbing are snow-covered cracks in glaciers, strong wind, low temperatures and lack of oxygen when climbing to a height.
You can conquer the peak from the north side. During the climb, magnificent views of the snow-capped mountains are revealed among the green glades. There are no lifts, asphalt roads, shelters and cafes on the northern slopes, so climbers need to rely only on their own strength.
Climbing Mount Elbrus from the western side is considered the most extreme. There are also no lifts, snowmobiles that bring climbers to the desired height, there is no infrastructure. There are many cliffs and glaciers on the route, so only experienced climbers go here. When climbing to the peak from the east from the Irik-Chat pass (height 3667 m), a beautiful view of the eastern peak opens. Here, on the glacier, the technique of moving on ice is being worked out, they are trained to work with a rope and insurance methods.
Climbing the summit from the south
For climbing Mount Elbrus, more than two hundred routes have been laid, designed for both experienced climbers and beginners. Climbing the summit from the southern slopes is popular among beginner climbers. It starts from the base of Azau (altitude 2200 meters). Here the first acclimatization to mountain conditions takes place. Further, the path leads to the high-altitude shelter "Bochki", Pastukhov Rocks, after which the ascent to the top of Elbrus begins.
Experienced climbers can conquer the mountain on their own, and people with no experience organize groups and make an ascent accompanied by a guide. Due to the difficult weather conditions on Elbrus, it is better to climb in the summer months and in the autumn no later than October.
What is the "Pastukhov Rocks"
This is a group of rocks located on the southern slope of Elbrus. The stone ridge was named after the Russian climber and military topographer Andrei Pastukhov, who studied the Caucasus Mountains. When climbing to a great height, a person must undergo acclimatization and get used to the conditions of lack of oxygen high in the mountains.
By tradition, the Pastukhov Rocks, whose heights range from 4,600 to 4,800 meters, serve as a place for acclimatization before climbing to the top of Elbrus. Here the group sleeps in tents. Inadequately prepared to climb the summit, people can climb the cliffs on a snowcat (special transport for moving on glaciers) and enjoy the mountain scenery, and then go downhill on a snowboard or ski.
Some information about Andrei Pastukhov
Pastukhov Andrey was born in 1858 in the Kharkov province. He graduated from a military gymnasium in St. Petersburg, then was sent to the Corps of Military Topographers, and later received an appointment to the Caucasian Military District. He made maps of mountain ranges in Dagestan, and in 1889 he conquered the eastern peak of Kazbek from the northern side. Before him, no one had made such an ascent.
A year later, the Russian climber first climbed the western peak of Elbrus without conductors. In this campaign, he compiled a map of glaciers and collected a large collection of mountain minerals. During 1890, the topographer made several ascents to the mountains, during which he laid various routes. Only in 1896 did he make a second ascent to the eastern peak. During this ascent, the group that accompanied him spent the night on a rock ridge, after which the name of Pastukhov rock was assigned to it.
Classic climbing route
The classic climbing route to Elbrus is of difficulty 2A. Any physically healthy person with experience of walking in the mountains can climb. To complete the route, you will need equipment and warm clothes, because the weather on Elbrus is unpredictable.
After a little acclimatization at the Azau station, the group with all the equipment is lifted by cable car to a height of 3800 meters to the Bochki shelter. Here are insulated trailers designed to stay on the basis of 50 people, as well as 2 kitchens and a dining room. The shelter has electric heating. To adapt to being in the mountains, on "Barrels" you need to spend 2-3 nights.
After that, climbers move to the high-altitude "Shelter of the Eleven" and make a training trip from there to the Pastukhov Rocks. The trail runs along the ice floor covered with snow.
Climbing to the top of Elbrus begins at night. From the shelter to the rocks of Pastukhov you need to go about 2 hours. After 300-400 meters up from the cliffs, a direct rise begins, after which the road turns into a saddle. After an hour's rest in the saddle, you can climb to any peak.
Equipment for climbing Elbrus
To climb the southern slope you need to have with you:
- wool or cotton thermal underwear;
- a pair of sets of underwear and warm socks;
- a sleeping bag that can withstand temperatures up to -5 ° C;
- thermal mask to protect your face from frostbite or a protective cream;
- windproof warm jacket with a hood or windbreaker that can withstand temperatures of -2 ° C;
- alpine boots with solid soles and welts for attaching cats, as well as removable shoes.
In addition, you will need cats, an ice ax, a first-aid kit, toiletries, ski poles, warm gauntlets, a headlamp. Be sure to take a ski cap and sunglasses with ultraviolet filters.
Climbing Safety
Before climbing, the group must be registered in the search and rescue group EMERCOM of Russia. When registering, indicate the number of people, the time of going out on the route, the control time of return, as well as the data of the team leader. During the ascent, you must not leave the route indicated in the package.
Be sure to check the availability of equipment, first-aid kit and walkie-talkie or other means of communication. Properly selected ammunition and clothing will make the climb enjoyable and will not turn it into a battle for survival.
Particular attention should be paid to acclimatization to mountain conditions. Climbing the summit is possible only 3-4 days after staying on the "Barrels" and a test trip to the Pastukhov Rocks. Elbrus does not forgive irresponsible preparation. Many people may experience oxygen starvation, severe headaches. Some, due to a lack of oxygen, fall into an inadequate state and lose their sense of reality. If this happens, you must go down.
Of the products you need to take boiled meat, vegetables, dried fruits, nuts. Before going to the route, you can cook borscht, scrambled eggs, chicken cutlets, porridge in the shelter. Chocolate is not recommended because it causes nausea and a bad effect on the liver.
Descent from the top of Elbrus
Many come to the resort "Elbrus Azau" to go skiing. There are 7 ski slopes on the south slope for experienced skiers and beginners. Their total length is 11 km. In fact, the entire descent is one track about 6 km wide, on which there are no signs and dividers, and protective nets are only in some areas.
There are several stations on the ski run site to which the ski lifts deliver the skiers. The highest point to which they rise on the lift is the Gara-Bashi station, it is located at an altitude of 3800 meters (slightly higher than the Bochki shelter). Even higher to the "Shelter of the Eleven" can be reached by snowcat. The section between Shelter of Eleven and Gara-Bashi can be mastered only by experienced skiers. Some extreme skiers come to the Pastukhov Rocks. Skiing in these places is very dangerous, because you can fall into a crack or get into an avalanche.
The safety of skiing on the slopes of the Elbrus Azau complex is controlled by the rescue service, especially dangerous places are fenced with a protective net, video cameras are installed on each section of the route. Inexperienced skiers are better off riding with an instructor, because wild mountainsides can be unpredictable.