Today, there is such a large assortment in women's clothing stores that it might seem that a sewn women's windbreaker with your own hands, the patterns of which will be discussed in this article, is completely unjustified. However, if you think about it, you can find a lot of advantages and advantages of independent tailoring.
First of all, it is a saving. As a rule, sewn things cost several times cheaper. Also, do not forget that, independently modeling the style, you can take the most liked parts of various models and combine them together in your product. Well and the most important thing is the color and size, which, as practice shows, it can be very difficult to choose when choosing a ready-made windbreaker. That thing is great, it is great for the color of the eyes, but it’s small, it’s perfectly sat down, but the shade does not satisfy the needs. So it turns out that in a huge assortment of fashion stores, you can lose several hours of time and still not find a suitable option.
Whether dealing with self-tailoring! Moreover, the pattern of the windbreaker of the female model is built very simply, and even the most inexperienced craftswoman can sew it.
Taking measurements
Sewing any clothes begins with taking measurements. The pattern of a women's or men 's windbreaker is built on the basis of the main measurements: waist, hips and chest circumference, shoulder width, sleeve length and product length. This thing differs from other women's outerwear in that it does not make tucks on either the chest or the waist, which greatly facilitates the construction of the template and minimizes the number of measurements taken from the figure.
Build a shelf template
To build a template you will need a newspaper, glued sheets of paper or construction film. They will need to indicate the boundaries of the drawing. It should be a rectangle with sides that will correspond to the half-circumference of the chest + a few centimeters for a loose fit (the amount depends on the style), the other side should be equal to the length of the product from the shoulder to the bottom.
The pattern of the windbreaker of the female model in the drawing is constructed as follows:
- At a distance of 25-30 cm (and for large sizes 35–40 cm) from the upper side of the rectangle, a parallel line is laid , which is designated as the chest line.
- Then divide this line into parts: the width of the back, the zone of the armhole (the size of the half-circumference of the chest is divided by 4 and 2 cm is added), the zone of the front shelf.
- After proceeding to the neck in the upper corners of the rectangle. 6 cm back from the corner towards the rectangle and deepen the neck on the back by 5 cm, and in front by 5-6 cm.
- Further from the extreme points of the neck note the shoulder seams, underestimating them by 1.5 cm from the upper side of the border of the drawing.
- Then find the middle of the armhole on the chest line and lower the straight lines from the edge of the shoulder sections. After the armhole is drawn, rounding the corners.
- If the length of the product is above the hips or the measurement of the hips is similar to the chest, then all the constructions on this can be completed. If the hips are wider, you should take into account the difference and flare the side cut, falling from the point of the middle of the armhole perpendicular to the lower border of the drawing.
Thus, as a result of all the manipulations, a pattern will be obtained for the female jacket of the windbreaker, or rather, the halves of the back and front patterns. Next, proceed to the development of the sleeve.
Sleeve construction
The finished pattern of the female windbreaker should consist of a half back, front shelf and sleeve. Different cutters use different methods for constructing the sleeve, but the principle is always the same: the ridge should fit perfectly into the armhole on the front and back. To build this element, it is necessary to combine the ready-made shelf templates at the shoulder seams and translate the armhole line onto a separate sheet. Next, the rounding at the shoulder must be closed in a circle. Along its lower border, place in the center the measure “the width of the upper part of the arm. On the top - retreat upward 1.5 cm and smoothly reduce the rounding from this point to nothing. Then it remains only to outline the line of the ridge and make a control measurement of compliance with the cut length of the armhole.
Build a hood and collar
The pattern of a women's windbreaker with a hood differs only in that, in addition to the shelves and sleeves, a template for the hood should be developed. Make it simple enough. You should measure the circumference of the head and measure the length from the forehead to the back of the head through the crown and the height of the hood (from the shoulder to the crown). The construction is done in a rectangle, where the sides are equal to the height of the hood and half-circumference of the head.
The measure taken from the forehead to the back of the head should be laid through one of the upper corners of the rectangle, while the sharp edge should be rounded and the straight line should be lowered by 1-2 cm to the forehead area. In the area of the back of the head, the line should be shifted 3-4 cm inward the rectangle. The base line of the hood along which it will connect with the windbreaker should be made curved. At the nape - raised 3 cm, and to the face, on the contrary, lowered. This will ensure the correct fit of the hood and eliminate unnecessary creases on the back of the head.
The collar is much easier to do. It will require a strip of fabric equal to double height and width corresponding to the cut of the neck.
Style Modeling
The basic pattern of the windbreaker of the female model is already half the battle. Everything else is just the details. At the modeling stage, the arrangement of pockets, stripes of decorative elements and other shaped elements is being worked out. By the way, pockets can be welt with zippers or patch pockets, as well as a combination of one with the other.
According to this description, you can sew completely different models. Need a large women's windbreaker? The pattern, the description of which is presented above, is perfect for absolutely any complexion. Flare the bottom a bit, add drawstrings and cords on the sides to pick up the side seams, the same design for the sleeves and collar - and a great windbreaker for a curvy lady is ready.
Cuff gum design options
Windbreakers are characterized by cuffs at the bottom of the product and on the sleeves. For their design, you can take special knitted knitwear or scar fabric or, using the main fabric and wide elastic band, make these elements yourself. A strip of fabric to the length of the stretched elastic and its double width, the elastic placed inside the elastic, stitched every half centimeter - and the cuffs are ready.
A bit about choosing fabrics
The most successful material for a windbreaker is raincoat fabric. This material is well protected from the wind and can withstand a little rain. If you take a warm fleece for the product, then the pattern of the windbreaker of the female model will miraculously turn into a warm and cozy anorak.
An option with faux leather or varnish fabric will also look good. However, the choice depends on your own preferences and taste.
Work with lining
If you sew a windbreaker without a lining, then this will be a great option for cool summer evenings, but if you need a warmer model, it is better to make a lining, or you can even use a quilted coat with a small layer of padding polyester.
To cut the lining fabric, you will need the same pattern of the windbreaker of the female model. First, all the elements of the top of the product are collected, after the lining is completely sewn, and after they are connected.
The assembly sequence is as follows: first along the neck and front section; further down, and then in the sleeves.
So that all the connection points are beautifully designed, they are sewn through a hole in one of the sleeves. The sleeve is sutured at the very least.