Sewing clothes is an interesting lesson that allows you to add your own zest and uniqueness. This article will discuss in detail how to sew a half-skirt with your own hands. And also what material to choose. We give the rules of calculations and measurements for sewing.
What type of figure is this skirt model suitable for
The half-skirt is a unique style that suits almost everyone. Different models can easily hide wide hips, as well as emphasize the waist. Flared skirts are ideal for owners of the figure of an inverted triangle. Solid dark products below the knees will help to hide a wide part of the figure.
What fabric is suitable for a skirt of such a style
A convenient material for such a cut is a canvas made of natural components.
- Silk. Despite the beauty of the product, it is the most inconvenient material for sewing.
- Synthetic fabrics. Used only for evening toilets.
- Skirts made of fine wool. It is a universal option for the cool season. Mandatory processing of the seams.
- Cotton material. It does not require overcasting of the edges provided that the cut is closed.
In a skirt made of thin fabric, seams cannot be closed, therefore it is necessary to overlay them.
Variety of models
Despite the fact that all models are based on the same cut principle, they have noticeable differences: length, fabric, waist line, etc. There are also models on elastic, on a wide or thin belt, with side fasteners (zippers, hooks )
Let's consider some models in more detail.
How to sew a half-skirt (with a belt) on a yoke.
In itself, it is a circle of fabric with a hole in the middle. This neckline is the waistline. For a skirt on a yoke, it is not the waist line that is measured, but the line of the hips. Take the following measurements:
- Waist circumference (From);
- product length (Di);
- hips (Ob).
Calculate the inner (R 1 ) and outer (R 2 ) radii of the circle according to the formulas:
R 1 = (2 Ob - 2) / 2 * 3, 14 (pi number).
R 2 = Di + R 1
The inner radius (R 1 ) must be expanded on each side by 1 cm.
In a similar model, the coquette will imitate a belt. Knit fabric is used for it. The pattern looks like a trapezoid, where the top is the half-circumference of the waist, and the bottom is the half-circumference of the hips. Its height does not exceed 20 cm.
How to sew a half-skirt (with a belt) with one seam.
Such an easy model can be cut right on the material. To do this, you need to prepare a fabric where the product length is multiplied by 2. And the width is calculated as follows: skirt length + notch radius for the waist + additional 6 cm.
The material is folded upside down and the pattern line is aligned with the fold of the fabric. The pattern is attached to the canvas with needles. The pattern is drawn in chalk, not forgetting the allowances. They should be on the waist, on the sides and bottom (up to 2 cm). Carefully cut out the part so as not to damage the fabric.
How to sew a half-skirt (with a belt) with two seams.
Patterning such a skirt is very easy. Make measurements and make cutting according to the above instructions. There should be two details. Then make a pattern. It takes into account seam allowances. The wrong side is laid out the material, pin the pattern and circle it with chalk. Mirror pin the pattern on the other side. He is also surrounded by chalk. Both parts are carefully cut and stitched.
How to sew a half-skirt (with a belt) with pleats .
To build such a model, I do calculations where the main parameter from which they are repelled is the waist circumference.
By personal standards, a rectangle pattern is drawn on the wrong side of the material. Chalk indicates the number of desired folds in the form of verticals to the bottom edge. To find them on the fabric, the canvas (by the number of marks) is divided into even parts. Find the center of the fold and divide each half into three parts. Then they are folded with an accordion. After all the parts are assembled, they depart from the edge no more than 10 cm and fasten with a small line. Carefully iron and stitch.
How to make a belt
The fabric is doubled and a slightly curved rectangle is drawn with chalk. Its length is equal to: waist circumference plus 5 cm, and also 2 cm are added to allowances on all sides. Next, exactly such a rectangle is cut from the non-woven fabric. Iron it to the wrong side of the fabric. Non-woven should stick. Two parts of the belt are stitched together and turned out.
Half-skirt: pattern, calculation of fabric, measurements
Fabric calculation:
- Measure the volume of the waist (From) and the length of the product (Di).
- The length of the canvas is equal to the two lengths of the future skirt.
- The radius of the recess for the waist is added to the length of the product, the resulting number will be the width.
Half-skirt pattern (calculation by formulas):
- Calculate half the waist circumference and determine the length of the skirt.
- Next, calculate the radius of the recess for the waist, where the belt will be sewn. The formula applies: 1/3 * Sweat + 1 cm (Sweat - half waist). The resulting number is multiplied by 2 and subtract 2 cm.
- The patterns will consist of two semicircles. Small radius (From) - R 1 , large radius (product length and distance from its edge to the waist) - R 2 .
R 1 = From / 3.14
R 2 = Di + R 1
Elastic skirt
The easiest option for beginners is a half-sun skirt with an elastic band. Consider the detailed instructions:
- According to measurements, a small diameter is drawn on paper.
- From a line of small diameter, measure no more than 8 cm and draw an arcuate line.
- Outlines for seam allowances of 1 cm.
- According to the length of the skirt, draw a side line and draw a large circle.
- The patterns are cut out and fixed with needles to the fabric.
- Carefully cut out the pattern on the fabric and stitch the details.
- The length of the elastic is equal to the circumference of the waist.
Half skirt with belt
First of all, it is necessary to take measurements (waist circumference, maxi length, hip circumference) and record them.
Sewing process:
- To calculate the width of the fabric cut for the product, add 50 cm to the size of the hips.
- To process the lower edge of the product, 15 cm is added to the length.
- As soon as the calculation of the fabric for a half-skirt with a belt is calculated, they begin to pattern and sew.
- The edges of the main cut are grinded so that a pipe shape is obtained.
- The upper part is treated with a line. The stitch size is 5 mm.
- The length of the top should turn out: the circumference of the hips plus 5 cm.
- Sew a belt to the product.
- The processing of the bottom depends on the type of fabric.
How to make a belt for a half-skirt:
- The length of the future belt is calculated: 5 centimeters are added to the circumference of the hips.
- The desired width is multiplied by 2, a couple of centimeters is added to the allowances.
First draw a pattern of a belt in the form of a rectangle. Also duplicate the pattern on the non-woven fabric. It is equal to half the width of the belt. The dubbing is cut out and glued on the wrong side of the belt.
In order for the workpiece to become arched, it is necessary to pull off all the sections and iron the bend.
Extra centimeters are added to the belt so that it is possible to make a strap with a buttonhole. The fabric is smoothed in half and the straight edge is sewn from the inside. Make clearance bracelets. Then the belt is turned out and ironed. From the inside of the skirt, it is necessary to bend the free edge of the belt and sweep.
Instead of a fastener, an elastic band can be inserted into such a belt. The strip of the workpiece from the wrong side is closed into a ring and stitched. They turn out and insert the gum inside.
After trying on the belt, if everything suits, sew it to the product.
Tips for stitching correctly
- Before sewing, the fabric must be stretched so that the finished product does not sit down after washing.
- Carefully take all measurements.
- The pattern is fixed only on the wrong side of the material.
- Chalk is used to draw lines, so that it can be easily removed.
- The lines are drawn from the wrong side.
- For beginners, in order to more easily draw seam allowances, it is recommended to prepare cardboard blanks of different widths.
- To avoid a large number of distortions, the distance between the needles should not be too small.
- Beginners should abandon the material with patterns, in the process of connecting parts, you can disrupt the composition.
- Side seams are sewn at right angles in different directions.
- When grinding, the material should not be bent, it should lie flat.
- In order for the finished product to take the desired shape, you need to hang it on a hanger.
If you understand the above formulas well and adhere to not complicated tips, then it is not difficult to sew a new thing.