We present to you the construction of a base pattern - the most understandable way. Let's start with the base of a dress, blouse or jacket - that is, a shoulder product.
Take measurements (we have an example of individual measurements for 48 sizes of an atypical figure), see:
- SG-49;
- ST - 41;
- SB - 55;
- ShS - 21;
- School - 17;
- ShG1 - 21;
- SHG2 - 25;
- VG - 28;
- WB - 19;
- TG - 10;
- Accident - 43;
- DTS - 40;
- MIC - 42;
- VGK (from the nipple to the shoulder) - 25;
- SHP - 14;
- (shoulder width along the back from the cervical vertebra) - 23;
- (shoulder width in front of the jugular cavity) - 20;
- CI (from the waist) before 48 (better than 50);
- OP - 31;
- DR - 60;
- OZ - 21;
- DR 3 \ 4 - 45.
We start building the base pattern - the most understandable way
AA6 up equals SG2 + PG
AT down = accident. TN down - CI. TB down = WB. AT Down = AGR
AA11 right and GG2 right = SHG2
T10A10 = DTs2
A10A12 left = G6G4 = ShS + PShS =
AA1 right = NW \ 3 + App. =
Shpp –Shsp = 1,5
If the difference between and is more than 1 cm, then A10A8 to the left is equal to / 3 + Pr = AA1 + the difference between and . If the difference between the ShPP and ShSP is more towards the front, then in this case AA1 = A10A8 + the difference.
AA2 = 8 const (from 6 to 10)
A2A1 - connect with a smooth concave line.
When making the neck and sprout, the line should start from a right angle.
A10A9 down 3 cm const
A8A9 - connect with a smooth concave line
A1A4 to the right is equal in radius = .
GG1 to the right = TsG (1 \ 2 of the original)
G1A4 radius = VGK before crossing with GG1.
At the intersection of the line G1 with DA4 we get the point A3.
A3A5 - tuck solution = (2 –1) * 2 =
A3A5 - first radius = tuck solution
G1A3 - equal to the second radius - set aside
A5A6 is equal to A3A4 (the part of the shoulder that has gone into the tuck)
G1A6 = VGK
T10T11 left - 2.5 cm
We find two radii:
1) A8A7 = ShP
2) T11A11 = MIC
G2G4: 2 = G3
GG3 = TT5 = BB5 = HH1
T5G9up - barrel height
We find the lower part of the armhole.
G9G8 down - max to 5 cm (otherwise, if we sweep the sleeve, we can’t raise our hand, the dress will climb up behind the sleeve).
We withdraw the armhole of the front in a smooth curved line through points A6 G8 and A7G8.
Building a base pattern - the most understandable way - landing on a figure
Calculation of Waist Tucks
SG2 + Pg - (CT + Pt) =
Left T10T11 - minus 2.5 cm
T11 T9 left = minimum 6 cm
T9T8 to the left is 3 cm. Divided in half, we get the point T7. Draw a perpendicular up and down.
B6B7 up - 3 cm const
A8G10 divided by 3, we get G5
We connect G5T8B7 and G5T9B7
B9B8 left 1 cm
We connect A9G7 with a smooth convex line, dividing the distance by 3
T5T4 left = OT balance
We measure BB8 and compare it with SB. THE CONTROL!
If the difference between them is towards the hips, then we can narrow the hips and the dress will not stretch
If you need to add on the thigh, then from B5 we extend the hips to the desired number of centimeters
1) G1T1
2) T1T3 right 1 cm
3) BB2 to the right from 5 to 7 cm
Building a base pattern - the most understandable way - a single-seam sleeve
OP down - measure the distance by connecting A12A14. Connect and divide by 2. It turns out point A15
Lower the perpendicular down to the bottom line of the armhole at the point G6. We get the point G10. We measure the distance A15G10
Formula A15G10 - (2.5 - up to 3 cm)
OP down = A15G10 -3
PP1 = OO1
OO2 = OO1: 2
OD = OR: 2
O1P1 = O1P1: 2
PP2down = ", 5 cm const
PP3 up = 2.5 cm const
We spread the sleeve width
PP3 left = PP2
P1P4 to the right = P2P1
O2O3 up = OO2
O3O4 to the left is 1 cm const
O3O5 right = 1 cm const
We connect O4P2 and on the line the sleeve width point P5
We connect O4P2R5 and O5P3R6. We design the line of okat of the sleeve through the points O2P2P3 smoothly. O2P34
12 to the right - 12.5 cm (: 2)
H1H3 left - 12.5
We connect P3H2 P4H3.
Your attention is given a step-by-step construction of the pattern of the basis of the dress. Even if at first glance everything looks scary, it's worth a try, and you will succeed.
Having studied this point of building patterns, you can go to the next step - to master the construction of a pattern of the basis of trousers.