The finest delicate silk and delicate weightless lace are simply created to emphasize elegant female forms. All girls love beautiful underwear, peignoirs and nightie - this is a fact. And as always with true love, it can’t do without difficulties. Looking at the value of decent linen, sometimes you realize that it is easier to love at a distance. And there is no point in arguing whether high cost is justified. It is much better to look at her with irony, draw an analogy with unrequited love and make your love with your own hands. Yes, you can sew a nightie on your own as in a store, picking up similar fabrics and lace. But if you fully trust your imagination, you can create a unique thing.
Lack of experience is not a hindrance
How to sew a nightie without even the slightest idea, where to start? It would be a desire, but experience is a gain! Of course, here you can not do without a step-by-step guide. But before starting the practical part, a little general theory does not hurt.
When choosing a fabric, preference should be given to thin canvases. Satin nightgowns look great, but budget crepe satin will not work for them. Yes, outwardly it looks very presentable, and even shimmers like satin, but this canvas is too dense and will look rough in the product. The ideal option is silk, natural or artificial. You can also choose a thin satin, chiffon or guipure. No less interesting will be the combination of different textures of the paintings. A great example is a silk nightie with lace.
Take measurements
Taking measurements from a figure for sewing any product is as necessary as trying on shoes before buying them. Nothing of the way from the idea to make a pattern of a nightie "by eye" will not work. Therefore, using a centimeter tape, measure such parameters as:
- breast volume
- chest height;
- a solution of tucks in the chest;
- the length of the back and front to the waist;
- back width;
- length of the product.
These measurements are used to build the basic pattern. The nightie is modeled on the template, drawing contoured lines on the drawing. Here you can think over all the decorative openwork inserts and draperies, draw a line of a detachable chest, outline the neckline and the place of joining the edging from lace. Also on the basic template it is easy to measure the length of the straps. This is much more convenient than measuring them with a centimeter tape on the figure. Therefore, in order to sew the nightie as it should, you need to cut all the elements of the cut and draw all the details on the basic template.
Basic grid pattern
So that the finished pattern does not crumple and does not tear at hand, it is best to make it from a construction film. It costs a penny and is sold in any building materials store. It is best to draw on it with a permanent marker.
First, build a basic grid, then draw cut elements.
- The drawing begins with the construction of a right angle, where the vertical is the length of the product, and the horizontal is half the measure “chest volume”.
- The corner is closed into a rectangle.
- The upper horizontal is divided into three zones: back - ½ measures “back width”; armhole - half of the chest circumference, divided by four + 2 cm; chest - without calculations.
- An auxiliary vertical line is drawn from the middle of the armhole zone, which will serve as a guide for the side seam.
- According to the measure "chest height", they build a horizontal. This will be the chest line.
- From the points defining the zone of the back, armhole and front, lower the perpendiculars to the second horizontal in the drawing.
- From the upper left corner of the rectangle descend to a distance equal to the measurement "back to waist". And draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary vertical.
- Similar actions are performed from the upper right corner of the rectangle, using the measure “front length to waist”. And also carry out a perpendicular.
- The resulting lines are connected by a smooth bend, making it on the right half of the rectangle. This will be the waistline. The larger the chest, the lower it will be on the front panel.
- 20 cm lower from the waist line of the hips.
The base grid of the template is ready.
Cut elements
The next step in the construction of the pattern is to identify the tucks of the chest, the formation of the side seam and the drawing of details.
- Along the line of the chest from the right vertical, 1/2 measurements of the “solution of tucks of the breast” recede and the perpendicular is drawn from the point up.
- Next, two points are found: one is located on the border line of the armhole and the front is 5 cm below the upper horizontal; the second is 7 cm to the left of the upper right corner of the triangle and 2 cm above the upper horizontal. Points connect a straight line.
- Next, the tucking of the chest is finalized. To do this, from the intersection of the just laid line and the perpendicular raised from the starting point “1/2 solution of breast tucks”, 3-4 cm recede and lower the line to the starting point.
- To form a side seam along the thigh line from the left and right verticals, 1/2 measurements of “hip circumference” + 2 cm are laid aside for free fit. Then through this point from the middle of the armhole to the bottom of the product draw a straight or curved side seam at the waist.
At this stage, the template is ready to draw details. The point is small: draw a neckline and chest straps.
A little bit about tricks
How to sew a nightie so that it is neat and nothing betrays that it is not a factory product? First of all, before assembling parts by machine seam, they must be swept away. Side cuts are best covered with a linen seam and do not use a zig-zag. Ideally, this should be an overlock. Before adjusting the lace, the edges of the sections of the main fabric need to overcast or tuck. First, it is better to sew the lace elements manually, and then sew them up with a zig-zag stitch with a small width and medium pitch.