60 years ago, at the highest point of the globe, discovered by topographers from Britain in the 18th century, human traces first appeared, although before that many unsuccessful attempts had been made to conquer the summit. The mountain was named Everest in honor of the researcher of the geodetic service, not knowing that the local monks living in Tibet have long called it the Jomolungma.
Background
As soon as information appeared about the highest mountain of the globe, a man constantly dreamed of climbing it. Some plans did not have to come true, because the government of Nepal did not give permission to climb the sacred mountain, revered by the indigenous people. And only at the beginning of the 20th century, climbing expeditions were undertaken, but from Tibet. With each attempt to climb higher, new records are set, and in 1953, after overcoming difficult obstacles, the peak finally surrenders to human courage.
Who climbed Everest?
However, not everyone agrees with the version that New Zealand and Nepalese climbers conquered a dangerous mountain, which took about 200 human lives. There were unfounded opinions that Mallory George was the first to overcome the death zone and stood at its extreme point, who disappeared in 1924 during the 3rd expedition to Everest. Consider the version covered in mystery, which to this day excites the minds of all concerned people.
The main passion of a lifetime
Mallory was born into a priest's family. A young man who loves history after graduating from Cambridge takes a job as a teacher at school. But still the main passion of his life is mountaineering. Relatives said that Mallory trained so hard, as if he knew that he was waiting for some incredibly difficult climb. Fanatically devoted to his work, he writes a short essay in which he explains his position. Answering the question of what attracts amateurs to risk their lives, he admitted without concealment: “To overcome mountain peaks is the same art as writing poetry and composing music. It all comes from the heart, because it is built on selflessness. "
First expeditions
Of course, Mallory George longed to overcome the difficult and so far inaccessible to anyone to the top of Mount Everest. As soon as he learns about the beginning of preparation for climbing, without hesitation, drops out of school and headlong into tedious training. The dream of being the first person to successfully overcome the height, incredibly fueled his interest. When asked what purpose he still pursues, why he is going to Everest, George Mallory answered very briefly: "Just because he is."
3 years before the fatal tragedy, he rises with local guides to a height of about 7 thousand meters, on which the expedition ends. Using compiled accurate maps, the man plans to get to the very top next year. Having abandoned oxygen cylinders and special equipment, the climbing group begins to climb to a height. Despite the 50-degree frost and piercing wind, the expedition does the impossible: it improves the previous result by 1200 meters. People who suffered from oxygen starvation and cold, made a real feat.
Fatal ascent
The 37-year-old Mallory George, who dreams of defeating himself, again in 1924 as part of a large expedition begins the ascent, which became his last. Having reached a height of about 8 thousand meters, the group sets up camp. So that the reader can understand what constitutes the highest point of the earth, we will cite the words of Peter Habeler, a climber and mountain guide who spoke very harshly about the mountains. “Everest is a real monster that can easily kill me, just as it killed others before. These are not romantic heights - a frightening pile of stones creates a completely unfriendly atmosphere. ”
George Mallory and Andrew Irwin, a young and inexperienced student who visited expeditions more than once, set off in a bunch on a journey beyond their capabilities. There were only 150 meters to the summit, and Habeler’s words were precisely about that very height that was hostile to a person. No one knows what these two climbers who were leaving in the deadly zone were thinking about. It is known that a group followed them, observing how two small specks crawl very slowly along the rock. At some point, the climbers' eyes stopped distinguishing black figures in front of themselves, they simply disappeared into the cloud. Those who went in search of the expedition could not find the body and find out the cause of what happened. Climbers who were much better equipped than Mallory, who followed the same path, stopped when the last 100 meters remained to the top, saying that there was simply no way up.
The Secret of George Mallory
For Everest, 150 m is a lot. Therefore, disputes are underway about whether Mallory George passed ill-fated meters. Those who believe that the climber was not at the top reconstructed the events. Mallory, finding that there is no direct way up, most likely decides to go around the mountain in order to find at least some passage. It is likely that the men spent a lot of time looking for a non-existent trail, and they simply ran out of oxygen in cylinders. Realizing that the descent to the tents will be a difficult test, climbers try to return before dark, but do not have time. George Mallory, whose body was discovered only 75 years later, fell off a cliff, which he could not conquer. Irwin’s remains were never found. It is assumed that his frozen body was simply thrown down by Chinese expeditions, clearing the way of corpses.
However, experts from England, investigating the mysterious disappearance, are sure that the climber still visited the top, leaving there the British flag and a photograph of his beloved wife, who was not found in his pockets. But the wallet and all the documents remained in place.
Now no one can say with accuracy which version is correct. Whatever it was, but Mallory, going into the unknown, defied the impossible, and his victory over himself deserves admiration.