Registan Square in Samarkand is a cultural and historical center and the heart of the city with a thousand-year history. Its formation began at the junction of the 14-15th centuries and continues to this day. A world-wide achievement is an ensemble of three graceful madrassas Sherdor, Ulugbek and Tilla-Kari, representing an unrivaled masterpiece of Persian architecture. Since 2001, the architectural complex has been protected by UNESCO.
Description
There are a lot of cities with Registan Square in Central Asia, but Samarkand is the largest and most valuable in terms of cultural heritage. It is located in the historical center of Samarkand, one of the most important settlements of Uzbekistan.
The photo of Registan Square is impressive, on the one hand, with its beauty, and on the other - with the grandeur of the objects located here. Turquoise domes rise above the east-covered madrassah universities, and the huge entrance arches seem to invite you into the unknown world of knowledge. Apparently, it was no accident that Samarkand was a leading world cultural and educational center during the Middle Ages, where, in addition to the Koran, philosophy and theology, they studied mathematics, astronomy, medicine, architecture and other applied sciences.
Title
In Arabic, “reg” means one type of sandy desert. This suggests the conclusion that the area was once covered with sand. Here the scientific assumptions about the origin of the name of the Registan square begin.
According to one version, an irrigation canal ran here before. A lot of sand accumulated at its bottom, and when the city was drained, the territory began to resemble a desert site.
According to another version, since the time of the conqueror Timur, the square served as a place of public executions. So that the blood does not spread and does not stink in a hot climate, the soil was covered with a layer of sand. However, it is not possible to confirm or deny these versions. It is only known that at the time of Timur's death (1405), none of the currently existing structures were yet built.
Early story
Registan Square was originally a typical medieval city block, built up with residential huts, shops, workshops, and shopping malls. There was no hint of architectural planning. 6 radial streets of Samarkand (Marakanda) converged to the square from all sides. At the intersection of four of them (in particular, leading to Bukhara, Shakhrisabz and Tashkent), Timur's wife, whose name was Tuman-aga, at the end of the XIV century, a small shopping arcade of the dome type Chorsu (Chorsu) was built. Translated from Uzbek, it sounds like “four corners”.
Over time, Timur’s grandson Mirzo Ulugbek became the ruler of the Timurid power. Unlike the warlike grandfather (also known as Tamerlane), he showed a keen interest in science and later became an outstanding enlightener of his time.
Under Ulugbek, the current appearance of Registan Square begins to take shape. At the very beginning of the XV century, the first large object was built here - tim (covered market) Tilpak-Furushan. He began to attract merchants from all over the region; Mirzoi's caravanserai was erected nearby for their standing. Four years later, the Great Khan builds an ornate khanaka - a cloister for dervishes (wandering monks).
Ulugbek Madrasah
Gradually, El-Registan Square from trade began to turn into the front gate of Samarkand. The beginning of the transformation was the construction of a madrasah. Ulugbek, keen on astronomy, ordered to build the largest spiritual and educational center in the east, combined with an observatory, on the site of the covered market.
Even in its present state, Ulugbek madrasah impresses with a harmonious combination of monumentality and grace. But at the time of construction in 1420 it was even more beautiful. A quadrangular building plan measuring 51x81 m was crowned with four domes of turquoise shades. Three-tier minarets towered in each of the corners. According to the eastern tradition of architecture in the center was a closed courtyard 30x30 m. The main audience, it is a mosque, was located in the back. Contrary to expectations, there was a main entrance. The giant arch facing the square performs decorative and symbolic functions, personifying the power of knowledge.
Bitter history lessons
Unfortunately, the Ulugbek Madrasah did not reach us in its original form. This is due to earthquakes, and human indifference, and military conflicts. After 200 years of prosperity, being the largest and most respected medieval university, the educational institution began to gradually decline. This is due to the transfer of the state capital Maverannahr from Samarkand to Bukhara.
In the XVI century, during the reign of Emir Yalangtush Bahadur, the madrasah was restored. However, in the XVIII century the region was gripped by strife and popular unrest. The authorities ordered the demolition of the second floor of the building so that the rebels could not fire at government forces from above. Thus, the wonderful domes of the color of the spring sky disappeared. Also affected the finish. Later, minarets began to fall due to natural disasters and due to the theft by local residents of bricks from the base of the masonry. After a strong earthquake in 1897, the building turned into ruins.
Rebirth
Old photos of Registan Square in Samarkand at the beginning of the 20th century have been preserved. They show that the Ulugbek madrasah was in a deplorable state. The arch and the first floor of the main building, as well as the lower (highest) tiers of the front minarets, have survived. Facade decoration was severely damaged.
By that time, Soviet power was being established in the region, paying great attention to education. In 1918, the northeastern minaret began to tilt quickly, threatening to fall on the numerous shops and malls hiding nearby. The Turkomstaris Commission for the Supervision of the Preservation of Historical Monuments has developed a plan to save the unique structure. An outstanding engineer Vladimir Shukhov joined the project, who proposed an original way to align the minaret, which was successfully implemented.
Later, the architectural complex was put on restoration, which took 70 years. The peak of work fell on the years 1950-1960. In 1965, the southeastern minaret was straightened and strengthened. In the 90s, the forces of Uzbekistan have restored the second floor.
Sher Dor Madrasah
No less impressive architectural monument of Registan Square is the Sher-Dor Madrasah. It was erected on the site of the dilapidated khanaki Ulugbek at the direction of Yalangtush Bahadur in 1636. The construction was carried out for 17 years under the direction of the architect Abdul Jabbar, Muhammad Abbas was responsible for the painting and decor.
The configuration of the building is like standing in front of the Ulugbek Madrasah. The facade of the front arch is decorated with snow leopards (a symbol of ancient Maracanda), bearing the sun on their backs. They gave the name to the university: Sher-Dor - "the lion dwelling". A distinctive feature of the complex was the disproportionately large central dome. Under its weight, the structure began to deform after several decades.
However, the madrasah continues the glorious traditions of Persian architects. The openwork gilded ligature of quotes from the Quran is interwoven with geometric spiral-shaped patterns of glazed bricks and sophisticated mosaics. The wall decoration was preserved quite well, but part of the minarets was destroyed.
Tilla-Kari Madrasah
It belongs to the same historical period as Sher-Dor. It occupies a central place in Registan Square. Built in the years 1646-1660 on the site of the caravanserai of Mirzoi. Due to the features of the decoration, it was called Tilla-Kari - "decorated with gold." Madrasah also served as a cathedral mosque.
The building is significantly different architectural style:
- the front facade is decorated with two tiers of hujras (cells), facing the square with arched niches;
- instead of unstable minarets, small towers with domes called “guldasta” rise in the corners;
- the back is a mosque with a large dome.
The central portal is also monumental, like the neighboring madrassas. In the decoration, majolica and mosaic with a characteristic floral-geometric ornament are widely used.
From the depths of centuries
Sadly, due to civil wars, the invasion of neighbors and raids by nomads, Samarkand was almost abandoned by the middle of the 18th century. In some years, there were no residents left in the city. Only treasure hunters, dervishes and wild animals roamed the streets. Madrasahs were inexorably collapsing, and the area was covered with a 3-meter layer of sand, which is symbolic, given its name.
By 1770, power had stabilized, and residents reached Samarkand. The Registan, as in the best years, was announced by the screams of the merchants, artisans presented their skills, and numerous buyers asked the price of goods. The tsarist authorities held a “big subbotnik” in 1875. Removed alluvial soil (reaching a thickness of 3 meters), cleaned the lower floors of buildings, paved the area and surrounding streets. With the advent of Soviet power in 1918, madrassas were closed and turned into museums. For the whole subsequent period, large sums were allocated for the restoration of the Registered architectural ensemble.
Today it is the main symbol of ancient Maracanda and Uzbekistan as a whole. According to the reviews of tourists, the complex has retained the spirit of antiquity. Being next to him, a person feels his involvement with the great history. Despite the monumentality, buildings are not crushed by their size. They look elegant, and the aerial ligature of ornaments seems to rush into the sky.