A skirt is an integral part of women's clothing. And her mood can be as changeable as the fair sex themselves. Either she is strict and restrained, then cheerful and airy, then secretive, then, on the contrary, too frank, but it is she who makes the female image so tender and refined. This article will discuss how to model a skirt in the initial stages of sewing.
The construction of a pattern of any style of a skirt begins with the construction of the main drawing, which is the basis for the development of new models with all shaped lines, assemblies, folds, seams and cuts. The basic pattern is built according to the measurements taken from the figure: waist, hips, hips to the waist. The length of the skirt itself in this case does not play an important role, the main thing here is to achieve an ideal fit of the top of the product on the figure.
Building a basic pattern
In order to develop the main drawing, on which the skirt is modeled, you will need a Whatman paper, a piece of wallpaper or a dense construction film, a marker, a long ruler or tape, scissors and the above measurements. The pattern is built on the basis of a vertical strip equal to the length of the product from the waist to the bottom. Modeling the skirt can only be done after making the main drawing. A product sewn according to the main pattern is actually the most ordinary straight skirt, which is quite simple to build and sew on your own.
The construction of the front panel
So, to build a base pattern on the canvas (whatman, wallpaper or oilcloth) draw a vertical line, which will be the line in the middle of the front. Two points are marked on it, indicating the waist and the level of the hips. Then ¼ part of the measurements is laid aside from these marks to the side and connect these points in a smooth line, forming a side seam. In conclusion, it remains only to deepen the upper cut by 1.5 cm. To do this, on a vertical line from the point indicating the level of the waist, the specified distance recedes down and smoothly connect the center of the canvas to the side line.
Building the back of the skirt
The process of building parts for the rear panel is practically no different. Skirt modeling also begins with a vertical line and designations of the hips and waist level. However, it is worth noting that to ¼ part of the measurements are added 1-1.5 cm for free fitting. However, if the fabric is stretch and stretches well, this can not be done. Another important nuance: the back panel is almost always made of two parts. At the top, make out a fastener for buttons or a zipper, and at the bottom make a cut for a free step.
Features of the design of grooves at the waist
In order for the product to fit perfectly on the figure and emphasize all the smooth bends and features of the female camp, it is necessary to correctly design the tuck tucks. And, of course, modeling and designing a skirt for a different type of figure has its own characteristics.
- For a standard figure, they are made only on the back panel of the product, leaving the front part completely flat.
- For women with a strongly protruding belly, approximately 1.5 cm each are closed in tucks, if necessary, they are made two next to each other. Otherwise, the skirt will puff up and climb up the stomach, gathering almost under the chest.
- If the figure has a flat stomach and too thin waist, then the tucks on the front panel are made as close to the side seams as possible, and on the back part they are evenly placed relative to the upper section of the panel.
How to sew a pencil skirt
In fact, modeling a straight skirt from the “pencil” style differs in only one minor element: the bevel of the side seams to the bottom of the product. It is this detail that gives the figure an original tight-fitting silhouette, which is very popular among women and causes the enthusiastic looks of men. It would seem that this is special - a skirt up to the middle of the knee. However, the fact that she follows the curves of the body makes her simply amazing.
As already mentioned, the modeling of pencil skirts is performed on the basis of a direct model. To do this, from the hip line to the bottom of the product, both canvases on both sides are narrowed by about 5-6 cm. In this case, a sufficiently high cut should be made at the back so that the product does not hamper movements.
Coquette - original decor
Any skirt will look more attractive if you place on it such a decorative detail as a coquette. Using such a simple element, you can solve several problems at once:
- decorate the product;
- hide a convex belly;
- Using different fabrics, sew a skirt from the remaining flaps.
So, how do you simulate a straight skirt on a yoke? First of all, they draw the main pattern. Then, right on the drawing, a yoke is sketched. It can be made set-up, or you can make an invoice. An invoice is usually made with a sharp corner, which is decorated with buttons or pebbles. It is such a coquette that can slightly conceal a convex tummy, but it is worth noting that it should be about 25-30 cm long from the waistline. The main drawing is cut along the drawn line and get two parts. When cutting skirts with a set-in coquette, an increase is made for the seam, and when the drawing details are laid on, the whole panel and separately coquette elements are combined and cut out. At the same time, it is not necessary to make tuck darts on the decorative part. You can simply cut them on a template and combine parts, making an integral part from individual elements.
Modeling pleated skirts
If you make a skirt on a yoke, then folds will be an excellent addition to this model. This is perfect for a playful look. To develop a pattern for such a skirt, you should also first make the main drawing, draw a yoke, and then increase the size of the lower part of the pattern by the width of the folds. Such a model can be made without a detachable coquette, simply by stitching the folds of folds at a distance of about 15-20 cm from the waist line.
In general, modeling skirts of various styles is a very exciting and productive task, because through experiments you can create beautiful models. For example, a year model, the template of which is also developed on the basis of a straight skirt. It is this style that is ideal for tailoring evening dresses. In order to make a pattern of such a product, the panels of skirts in the main drawing are divided into the desired number of wedges, having previously designated the line from which the flare of each of them will go. After, depending on the desired splendor of the bottom of the skirt, mark the degree of flare and refine each of the details, adding the necessary part to the pattern. Thus, the result is a workpiece that resembles a straight-cut skirt on top, and a semicircle or trapezoid on the bottom.
Modeling wrap skirts
One of the most successful models of skirts for the beach season is a model with a smell that does not need to be worn over the head or legs. There is also a straight-line skirt simulation. The pattern is built on the basis of three measurements, however, for this model, a double front panel is made that is wrapped around the waist and fastened with just one button or tied with a belt.
Tulip skirt
Perhaps, one of the most popular models today is a tulip skirt. It is built by cutting the main pattern to the bottom of the skirt and pushing the elements 5-6 cm apart. Thus, folds at the waist are obtained, coming to naught to the bottom. It is worth noting that when cutting the patterns into elements and adding fabric for tucks, the bottom and waist lines will become an arc, and it is in this form that you need to cut the part from the fabric. In this case, the shared thread should be strictly observed . Modeling skirts of various styles is almost always done by dividing the main drawing into elements. It is also worth considering that the slope of the cut affects the appearance of the folds, which can be directed to the side slices or to the center.
Embroidered Skirt
Models with reliefs sewn with a decorative seam look interesting enough. To create such a skirt, lines are drawn directly on the drawing along which the template is cut. For example, it can be straight, continuing tucks, or just inserts on the sides. Quite often, such elements are made of contrasting fabric. Such modeling of skirts is considered the simplest. Using the method by which a tulip skirt pattern is constructed , it is easy to make interesting draperies on the product. In this case, you can cut the parts from either side, directing the drapery folds either to the side seams, or to the center, or to the waist line.
Fantasy has no limit
Modeling a yoke skirt can also be based on the method used to build the tulip skirt. For example, the coquette itself or the main canvas can be draped. Skirts with a high waist are also interesting. Usually they are decorated with a thin belt.
In conclusion, it is worth saying that a correctly chosen skirt style is able to emphasize all the advantages of a female figure and hide possible flaws. So, for example, a pencil skirt is ideal for owners of wide hips, but if the problem is that there is not enough volume in this part of the body, then the tulip model will be the ideal solution. A pleated skirt will harmoniously look on thin women, but full ladies will appreciate the fit of the product with embossed seams and false coquettes.
Features of sewing different models
The choice of fabric for the skirt is also important, because thanks to correctly selected material the product will look just perfect. So, for example, for a tulip skirt, a fabric that holds its shape well is perfect, but a model with a smell will harmoniously look from thin and soft fabrics. It is best to sew a pencil skirt from costume material or cotton, and for draperies choose a pliable fabric that fits well in folds.
From the above it can be concluded that in order to create an original style, you should learn how to model a skirt based on a straight line. And then it will be possible to create excellent products with original cut details. However, fantasy is also important here, because it was thanks to her that the well-known and popular skirt models were created. And although there is nothing newer than the well-forgotten old, thanks to the combination of various modeling techniques, it is quite easy to create a stunning outfit.