There is nothing new under the sky and everything new is well forgotten old. Each of us has heard this truth more than once. And even more than that, he observed the repetition of history with his own eyes. It is believed that fashion is very changeable and can not keep up with it. But if you track the trend patterns for several decades, then you can quite notice the coincidence. A vivid example of this can be considered the second life donated by the “Fashionable Sentence” to a fluffy skirt-sun in a fold in which glamorous divas of the 60s shone. Today, this thing is again at the peak of popularity, we can say that it is enjoying a moment of fame again. Therefore, it's time to put the skirt in a fold in your wardrobe. Moreover, it is easy and simple to sew it yourself.
In this article, we will talk about how the pattern of skirts is pleated and the calculation of the material for such a model. The most fashionable options this season will also be considered.
The choice of style and material
If we talk about a trendy skirt in a crease, then immediately you need to exclude small pleating. Now it is not relevant. But wide bow or one-sided folds are exactly those models that you should pay attention to. The length of such a product can be midi and mini.
The pattern of skirts in the crease is built quite simply, the main thing here is to arm yourself with a calculator and correctly calculate the desired piece of canvas. But what fabric to choose for a product? The main requirement that is put forward to the material for such a thing is stiffness so that the fabric holds its shape well. Of course, silk with chiffon can also be folded, but they will not look as spectacular as cato, linen or brocade. A skirt with oncoming folds, the pattern of which will be discussed below, can be an excellent bottom for an elegant dress in the style of the 60s. But for this you need to choose a stiff, sticking fabric to create the desired silhouette.
The color of the canvas is a matter of taste, and there are no rules. It can be monophonic canvases, cage, floral motifs and abstraction with all the colors of the rainbow. The main thing is to correctly combine the colorful bottom with a calmer top.
Building a template
The pattern of skirts in a crease from a straight piece of fabric can be built immediately on the canvas. But if it is a model of the sun or a half sun, then you will need to make a template from auxiliary material.
In order to make a blank, you will need to measure the volume of the waist. Hips are not measured for the simple reason that this girth will easily fit into the circumference of the skirt's panel, which will increase due to folds. But if the figure is non-standard or the folds are not full, but only half the width, then taking measurements from the hips is necessary.
Calculation for a straight pleated skirt
How is a straight pleated skirt built? The pattern of such a model is immediately marked on the canvas. At the edge of the fabric mark the length of the skirt + allowances for the seam of the belt and the hem of the hem. Depending on the volume of the waist, two or three such segments may be required. It remains only to calculate the width of the fold. To do this, the waist should be divided by the desired number of folds. Or, conversely, based on the quantity, calculate the width.
In an economical version, the pattern of skirts in the crease can be drawn with incomplete laying. From this type of product will not suffer, but less material is required. In this option, you need to take not three girths, but two or two and a half.
Calculation of bow folds
The rule of multiplying the waist by 3 also works here. However, the pattern of the skirt with bow folds is constructed in a slightly different way. The fabric for the straight pattern is also covered with stripes. The length is laid down along the armhole, and processing allowances are made on the top and bottom of the strip. Pattern skirts with bow folds can also be incomplete laying. Accordingly, the volume of the product will depend not only on the width of the fold, but also on its depth. Ideally, the marking consists of fold width marks, a bend mark, a depth start mark, a full depth mark, and a second bend mark.
Calculation and construction of a model of the sun
How is the fabric calculation for a pleated skirt? The pattern of the standard version suggests that the canvas must be folded four times, deviate from the corner 1/6 of the waist circumference and draw a waist line at this distance. After that, the necessary length is already departing from this line and hem lines are drawn. The pattern of skirts in the fold of the model the sun is set according to the same principle. There is nothing difficult to build. Only 1/6 of the waist should be multiplied by 3 so that folds can be laid.
It is worth noting that with such a cut, the width of the fabric 1.5 m is not enough to fold the canvas four times. And so you need to make a skirt of several parts. At the same time, during the cutting, it is necessary to make allowances for the connecting seams.
Skirt assembly
After marking, all the folds are smoothed out and basted. After zipper is sewn into one of the seams. A belt is sewn along the waist line in the form of a narrow strip folded in half. Next, the bottom of the product is processed. It can be simply doubled up and stitched, or processed on an overlock, ironed out and laid a line.
On the belt you will need to make a loop and sew the button. Or use a hook or a sewing button as a fastener. As a result, work will turn out featuring a pleated skirt. The pattern of this product is so simple that even the most inexperienced beginner will cope with sewing. So away all doubts! It's time to please yourself with your own new thing!