Recently, the saying “Everything new is well forgotten old” has become more and more relevant in fashion. Designers are increasingly displaying clothes that were popular in the 70s, 80s and 90s of the last century, complementing them with a combination of new trends. Therefore, now fashionistas can afford to maximize their imagination. An unusual combination of fabrics and styles, the most daring combination of different parts of clothes - all this will look appropriate on the streets of a modern city. Things of your own design will look especially advantageous, in a bow, even if partially stitched by you, you definitely will not get lost in the crowd.
To help even the most inexperienced seamstress make her dreams and ideas come true, we will try to paint as clearly as possible how to build a pattern, measure the figure, cut and sew the wardrobe detail that you planned. In this article you will find a detailed workshop on creating a conical skirt.
Conical skirt - what is it and what to wear with?
So, let's look at all the pros and cons of this type of clothing. Any skirt having the shape of a truncated cone can be called conical, that is, its pattern is a part or a whole circle. This form involves some ticking, which perfectly hides the flaws and emphasizes the dignity of the figure.
Conical skirts are divided into three main types:
- The first we, of course, mention the sun to everyone's favorite skirt. The cut out but not stitched “sun” has the shape of a circle with a hole for the waist or hips in the middle. This cut makes the skirt unusually magnificent. Such a model is suitable for the fair sex, who have absolutely any figure, you just need to choose the right material and determine the length.
- Another model is a half-sun skirt. As you may have guessed, in a “disassembled” form, the model is a half circle with a hole. This style will also suit ladies with any figure.
- A bell skirt is the third option. It is a thing of two quarters of a circle stitched together. This skirt is often sewn from thick fabric. Such a cut has a smaller volume, which makes the hips more rounded. So this style will not always be appropriate for owners of curvaceous forms.
On sophisticated thin girls, both maxi and mini will look great. However, designers offer those who have a size of M or S to pay attention to a mini of dense fabrics that will add extra volume to the hips and splendor of the skirt. Combine a skirt that is above the knee in your palm and a half, with tops, a peplum blouse, sweaters, men's style shirts and bustier tops.
For pyshechek suitable maxi or midi, reaching at least the middle of the knee. Combine it with a wraparound blouse, a masculine-style shirt or a slightly loose sweater, emphasizing the waist with a strap or belt of a skirt.
Materials and Tools
To create this model you will need:
- The paper on which you will build the pattern of the conical skirt (for example, graph paper). If you are not new to sewing, you can make a drawing directly on the fabric, but it will be more reliable for inexperienced craftswomen to circle a diagram made on a draft version.
- Pencil for sketching on paper.
- Chalk for transferring the product pattern to the fabric.
- Sharp cutting scissors (tailors are best suited).
- Tailor pins to fix the paper pattern on the fabric.
- Actually fabric.
- Threads for basting color contrast with fabric.
- Threads in fabric color for white sewing.
- Sewing machine.
- Lightning, buttons (if required by the model).
- Decorative elements (optional).
Taking measurements
To begin designing a conical skirt, you need to take the following measurements:
- St - half waist circumference.
The thinnest place of the torso is measured, and then divided in half.
- Di is the length of the product (in this case, the skirt).
It is measured from the waist or hips (it depends on how the skirt will be planted, to the place where the product will end).
Measured by the most protruding point of the hips, the result is divided in half.
- Dtb - the length from the waist to the hips (in case you have hips below the standard).
Measures the distance from the thinnest part of the torso to the most protruding point of the waist (strictly perpendicular to the floor).
- Fri - increase to half the waist.
- Pb - an increase to half the circumference of the hips.
Drawing a conical skirt
In order not to spoil the fabric, we suggest constructing a pattern on paper, and after you make sure the constructions are correct, you can transfer the result to the material from which you plan to sew. An example of a drawing will be a half-conical skirt.
- First, draw a horizontal line at the top of your sheet.
- Find the middle of the straight line drawn by you, put a point there, mark it with the letter A and draw a perpendicular of arbitrary length down from it.
- Now we’ll find the waist on your skirt. To do this, postpone the distance from point A on both sides and down, which you will get after calculating the following formula: St: 4 + 2. The resulting points are marked with the letters L, B, and the bottom with T.
- Connect these points in a semicircle.
- From points L, B (to the sides) and points T (down) lay a distance equal to Di, the resulting points are denoted by N, C, the bottom - G.
- Connect them in a semicircle.
Simulation of the half-conical skirt is completed. By the way, if you want to get a skirt in the sun, you can use this pattern, for this, when cutting, fold the fabric in half, attach the pattern with the straight part to the fold and draw on the fabric. Cut both layers of fabric according to the drawing and straighten the resulting detail, the pattern of the conical skirt the sun is in front of you.
Fabric preparation
So that the product does not lose its original appearance after the first wash, some manipulations must be made before using the fabric.
- First, cut a small piece from the fabric and soak it in a white saucer in boiling water for half an hour. See if the water has stained. This is necessary in order to check whether the material is molting.
- Soak the entire fabric in hot or cool water for 2-4 hours. If you sew from a dense fabric, then, spreading it on a flat surface, moisten with a spray bottle. So you can avoid its shrinkage when washing the finished conical skirt.
- Dry the fabric by gently spreading it in an upright position. So the material will not stretch.
- Iron the fabric through gauze or a special piece of thin cotton.
All of the above items must be completed before you make a drawing of a conical skirt.
Open skirts
- Cut the diagram you drew earlier on the lines N, G, C and N, L, T, B, C.
- Transfer the pattern to the fabric.
- Step back 1 centimeter from the drawn lines (seam allowance) and cut out the resulting pattern.
Tailoring skirts
To begin, we recommend making a belt. For a belt 5 centimeters wide, you will need a strip of fabric of the same color as the skirt, 12 centimeters wide and a length equal to St X 2 + 5cm.
- From the wrong side, glue the entire strip of fabric that you cut for the belt with adhesive tape.
- Sew the edges along the length of the belt using an overlock or using a zigzag seam from the inside.
- On the sides of the edge of the belt it is necessary to grind, laying on an allowance of 1 centimeter from its initial length.
The belt is ready, now you can proceed directly to sewing the conical skirt itself.
- From the semicircle, which on the pattern indicates the waist, on both sides, glue an adhesive tape the size of your zipper + 2 cm each.
- Between yourself, having pre-worked the edges, sew the sides connecting the semicircle of the waist and the semicircle of the bottom from the bottom up, not reaching the waist line as many centimeters as your zipper.
- Now you can sew in a hidden zipper.
- Iron the resulting back seam.
- We bend from below an equal amount of fabric on all sides and process the bottom using an overlock, a machine or manually.
Sew a belt to the skirt
- Set aside 3 cm from the edge of the belt and find the middle of the remaining length.
- Attach the middle of the belt to the middle of the skirt.
- Sew a belt with a skirt, folding them with the front sides.
- On the left three centimeters of the belt, make a loop equal to the diameter of the button + 2 millimeters.
- On the right side we sew a button.
So our workshop on sewing a conical skirt came to an end.