🚮 💛 ⏳ We are building a pattern of a female jacket 🗨️ 🍓 👈

Sewing is really easy, even things like a jacket. Of course, looking at the scale of the work, it seems impossible to cope with pockets, zippers and decorative stitching without professional skills. But if you consider the process in stages and take apart each sewing unit separately, in practice it turns out that it is completely simple to make even a women's winter jacket on your own. Pattern is completed in just 20 minutes.

Training

Absolutely all things are built on a basic grid. This means that the pattern of the jacket, including the female one, is based on a prepared drawing, where individual measurements are taken into account. Therefore, they begin by measuring the figure. For the pattern of a women's jacket, the following measurements will be required:

the volume of the chest, waist, hips, forearms, and wrists;
width of back and shoulder;
height from shoulder to center of chest, from shoulder to waist;
sleeve length, product length;
the distance between the tops of the chest or, as it is called, a solution of tucks.

To make a template, it is best to use a construction film. This material is stronger than paper, it is easy to draw on it with a permanent marker, and you can store a pattern of a women's jacket for a very long time, without fear that it will tear.

Basic grid

The drawing begins with the construction of a right angle:

from the starting point to the right, lay a line half the length of the chest circumference;
draw a straight down line in accordance with the length of the product, forming a right angle with the drawn horizontal;
the top of the corner is a place for the neck of the back of the pattern of a women's jacket;
vertically from top to bottom mark the level of the chest and waist, which are found in accordance with the measurements "chest height", "height from shoulder to waist";
20 cm below the waist mark the border of the thigh line;
from the found points draw horizontals parallel to the upper horizontal of the drawing;
the angle is closed, forming a rectangle;
from the left horizontal along the line of the chest put a point at a distance of half the width of the back;
a point is marked on the opposite side, this is half of the tuck solution;
a value equal to half of the chest circumference + 3cm recedes from the point “half back width”;
perpendiculars are lifted from the found points;
straight lines divided the drawing into three zones: back, armhole, shelf;
the armhole is divided in half on the chest line and the perpendicular is lowered, outlining a side cut.

The basic grid of the pattern of the women's jacket is ready, it remains to determine the main lines of the parts by which it will be possible to model the shaped lines.

Pattern Details

Detailing the pattern is the finish line. Here you will need to carefully arrange all the points and connect them with lines:

7 cm depart from the upper corners, set points, raising them by 1.5 cm for the back and 1 cm for the front;
from the points draw the neck with a smooth line, deepening it by 3 cm for the back and 7 cm for the front;
from the extreme points of the neck lay the length of the shoulder at an angle relative to the upper border of the rectangle, depending on the slope of the shoulder (for slopes - 3 cm, for normal - 2.5 cm, for straight lines - 1.5 cm);
4 cm on the back from the shoulder, put a point and lower the perpendicular to the chest line;
another 1.6 cm depart from the point along the shoulder line and at the height of 6 cm along the previously drawn perpendicular close the tuck of the back;
the shoulder line of the front is always located 2 cm lower and at a distance of 1/10 of the half-girth of the chest from the base line along the border of the armhole and front
from the found point to the beginning of the neck draw a straight line that will be longer than the desired size along the shoulder;
the excess length is closed in the chest tuck, namely, along the shoulder line of the front shelf from the perpendicular raised from the point “half of the tuck solution”, they retreat to the difference, which should be closed, set the point and close the tuck straight on the chest line at the beginning of the half-solution perpendicular tucks ";
the edge of the tuck, which is closer to the armhole, is raised by 1 cm;
the armhole is led out by a smooth line from the edges of the shoulder sections to 1/3 of the height of the border lines and to the midpoint on the chest area;
on the hips line, on both sides of the rectangle, ½ of the thigh circumference are retreating, set points and draw straight lines to the middle of the armhole zone;
if necessary, 3 cm to the waist line from the side cut border to form a fitted jacket silhouette.

This construction option is suitable for a warm product, as well as for a pattern of a women's leather jacket or windbreaker.

Measures for the sleeve

It is always difficult for beginners to build a sleeve. There are many ways to build, but the easiest way is to make a template based on four measures:

the length of the armhole for the finished pattern;
the length of the sleeve;
forearm girth;
girth of the wrist.

Building a template

Even if this is a pattern of a women's jacket on a synthetic winterizer, a sleeve can always be built by these standards. The only thing you need to add to the girths is the allowance for the thickness of the insulation and loose fit.

The construction is performed as follows:

draw a straight line corresponding to the length of the sleeve;
1/3 of the length of the armhole recedes from the extreme point from top to bottom, adding 2 cm;
on both sides of this point at a right angle retreat half the circumference of the forearm;
from the lower extreme point at right angles to both sides retreat half the girth of the wrist + 2 cm;
the resulting lines are closed in a trapezoid;
they return to the top of the drawing and, for the design of the okata, the sleeves draw lines, connecting the extreme points of the circumference of the forearm with the upper point of the main line;
the drawing can be divided into two parts: a trapezoid and a triangle;
the sides of the triangle are divided into 4 equal parts each and put dots;
the first point to the left of the base is lowered by 2 cm, the third is raised by 1.5 cm;
the first point to the right of the base is lowered by 1 cm, the third point is raised by 1.5 cm;
the points are connected by a smooth line from the corners at the base through the top of the triangle.

Building a hood

In order to build a pattern of a women's jacket with a hood, it is necessary to measure additional parameters such as:

head circumference;
head height;
neck length of the back;
neck length before.

pattern of a women's jacket on a synthetic winterizer

The constructions are made as follows:

draw a horizontal equal to 1/3 of the head circumference + 4–9 cm;
from extreme points fall at a right angle to the height of the head + 3-5 cm;
the lines are closed in a rectangle;
along the lower edge they retreat to the half of the neck of the back, mark the border, 3 cm of the tuck retreat, mark the border and mark half of the neck of the front;
from the lower left corner of the rectangle rise by 4 cm;
from the obtained point draw a line to the base to the mark of half of the neck of the front;
in the center of the tuck zone draw a perpendicular to a height of 3 cm and mark the borders of the tuck;
from the upper right corner to the point “half of the neck of the front” lower the line;
The upper corner of the left corner is mowed and closed with a straight line.

A pattern of a female jacket with a hood is ready. It remains to cut the parts with allowances for seams and assemble the parts. It is worth noting that the allowances for the girth and height of the head are made based on the style and the amount of insulation in the hood.