The development of tourism in our time has reached the point where so far only space has remained a forbidden place for travelers, and even then not for long.
If even 15-20 years ago, the conquest of the peaks belonged to an extreme sport, today climbing Mount Elbrus (reviews of beginner tourists talk about it) is an extreme type of recreation, vouchers for which can be bought at a regular travel agency.
Elbrus
Having arisen at the end of the Neogene era during the ascent of the Caucasus Range, Elbrus was such a powerful volcano that today scientists find the consequences of its ancient eruptions hundreds of kilometers from it.
The activity of the volcano ceased 2500 years ago, but Elbrus, reviews of the strength and power of which remained in local legends and tales, as early as the 16th century, was depicted on maps in the form of a cone with fire.
One of the highest extinct volcanoes on the planet began to conquer back in the early 19th century. The Russian expedition, consisting of scientists and the military, in 1829 tried to conquer Elbrus and even reached a height of 4800 m, as evidenced by the inscription on the stone with the St. George Cross carved on it. But only their conductor Kabardian was able to conquer the peak, as he was more adapted to rarefied high-altitude air.
Commemorative slabs on which this event was recorded became evidence of the conquest of Elbrus, but the conquest of the two-headed peaks of the mountain did not stop there. In 1874, the western peak obeyed the English climbers. Both peaks, with the accurate mapping of the topography of the mountain on a map, were examined by the Russian topographer Pastukhov, in whose honor rocks at 4700 meters are named.
Since then, climbing equipment has improved and the number of those who climbed the mountain has increased. Climbing Elbrus (reviews of climbers of the 20th century talk about it) was a real test of strength, endurance and self-control. Today, every tourist can climb an extinct volcano without special preparation. It should be remembered that Elbrus annually takes dozens of lives of those who were careless or too self-confident.
Weather on Elbrus
The climate on Elbrus is more similar to the Arctic, as the average temperature of the hottest month reaches +8 degrees Celsius here, and February is the harshest in weather conditions.
Frequent precipitation in the form of snow and numerous changes in the weather created grief for the glory of the “wind guide,” as the name Elbrus sounds in the Nogai dialect.
Climbers of the 19th and 20th centuries had to rely on luck when setting off on an ascent. Today, modern meteorological equipment allows you to know in advance when you can go to conquer Elbrus. Reviews of many climbers suggest that knowing about the weather in advance often saves lives.
For the convenience of climbers at different heights of the mountain, transshipment bases have been established, the main purpose of which is to serve as a shelter in bad weather and the opportunity to undergo acclimatization before climbing. The latter is a prerequisite, as Elbrus is harsh on those who neglect safety measures.
Depending on which slope to start the climb, its complexity depends.
Elbrus - tourist area
The climb to Elbrus (reviews are numerous today) has become a type of tourist vacation relatively recently. The development of infrastructure in the form of a cable car, hotels and transshipment centers has led tourists from all over the world to come here.
For example, Mount Cheget (3650 m) is a ski resort with the most difficult track in the world. All who wish to challenge grief come here to test their strength. In the season when snowboarders ski on Elbrus (reviews say it is November), there are not enough 4 lifts and 3 cable car lines for the quick delivery of everyone to the place. Thanks to them, skiers can start their descent from an altitude of 3070 m above sea level, which is not at all easy for beginners, since a slow rise and a fast descent can affect the general well-being in the form of dizziness and nausea.
In existing hotels and nearby cafes, you can relax between the slopes and gain strength by tasting the local cuisine. You can also take a start to Elbrus from here. Climbers say that the lifts from the Azu glade, which can be reached from the Cheget glade by bus or on foot (6 km), significantly reduce the time for climbing the mountain.
The bases for trekking on the mountain itself are not suitable for long stays. Their purpose is to give people the opportunity to undergo acclimatization, climbing from one base to another, in order to more easily transfer the ascent to Elbrus. Reviews of tourists say that there is a minimum of conditions sufficient to gain strength.
Elbrus for beginners
The development of the tourism business in the mountains gave rise to a number of new specialties, one of which was the profession of a guide, or, as they used to say in the old days, a guide.
Previously, the conductor pledged to deliver travelers to their destination. Climbing Elbrus for beginners (feedback from beginners especially indicates the importance of this) “brought” a new generation of professionals whose main function was not only to accompany, but also to prepare inexperienced climbers.
As a rule, experienced climbers give recommendations to beginners, which can be found on the Internet, but who reads them? Often, tourists naively believe that if the tour operator makes an attractive offer in the form of conquering the peaks, then he will be brought up to the mountains under the white arms. In fact, the agency that sold the tour doesn’t care whether the client succeeds in climbing or not. The rest, as they say, is a matter of guide technology.
Climbing Elbrus for beginners (reviews of all "dummies" confirm this) starts at home:
- Firstly, at least some physical training is required so that from an unusual load the legs can move at the right pace. It is enough 3-4 weeks before the trip to increase pressure on the legs in the form of small stretch marks, running, ascents and descents on the stairs. Let the muscles beat off at home, then it will be easier to conquer Elbrus. Reviews of beginners that they experienced exorbitant loads that ruined all the joy of climbing are not uncommon on the Internet.
- Secondly, good equipment is required. It is good, not expensive. The price in this case is not always quality. Some things can be rented on site, but boots should be taken only comfortable and spaced.
- Thirdly, it is important to know about the state of your health before climbing to the mountains. If a person does not undergo acclimatization due to problems with blood pressure or for some other reason, it is better to climb lower peaks than Elbrus. Rest (there are also reviews about this) at one of the bases will be interesting, but safe.
- Fourth, always listen to your guide. He is a professional climber, so his recommendations and even orders are not discussed.
It is important for a beginner to understand that when buying a tour to Elbrus, he pays only for an attempt, which can turn into anything, therefore, when going on a trip, you should take good luck with you. Those who are accustomed to relax in comfort, do not go on an excursion to Elbrus. Reviews of the difficulties of climbing and physical activity confirm this.
Climbing from the West
You can climb this mountain from different parts of the world, but not all of them are suitable for beginners. For example, climbing from the west is suitable only for climbers with extensive experience, since here the path is blocked either by powerful glaciers or by cliffs, which require great skill for difficult climbing.
The base camp on the west side is located in a clearing at an altitude of 2670 m (Dzhily-Su). Acclimatization will require a day that can be spent with benefit by visiting medical sources.
The next stage is climbing to the next camp (3500 m) with some things to go through a new stage of acclimatization. The next day, you can relocate to it with other things. Camp No. 2 is located on the Bityuk Tyube glacier (its moraine). At this stage, an intermediate height of 3900 m is taken, at which equipment can be left.
The third camp is at an altitude of 4200 m. Here you can spend a day of rest before sending to the last base point. The extra day of acclimatization will help an unprepared person regain strength and get used to oxygen starvation.
The fourth base is at an altitude of 4600 m, after which there is already a climb to Elbrus. The mountain (climbers' reviews claim this) becomes less impregnable if the preparatory work was done correctly.
The climb itself is not dangerous, although the snowy slope has some steepness. If the body has adapted to rarefied oxygen, then the path in good weather will not be difficult and dangerous.
Ascent from the East
From this side, you can climb to the eastern peak of the mountain, which has a height of 5621 m. Here you have to set up base camps yourself, if the climber is a beginner, you will need an experienced guide, since this side of the mountain does not provide comfortable living conditions.
The first camp for adaptation and overnight is set at an altitude of 2400 m. The next climb with "digging" is the Irik-Chat pass (3667 m), not far from which tents are set up. Workouts are held on the glacier, after which they climb to the next level - 4,000 meters - and tents for overnight are set up.
The assault camp is based at an altitude of 4500 m. After resting, training and a trial climb of 5000 m are conducted here. After a period of adaptation, the ascent to the summit begins, followed by descent to the base camp.
This is perhaps the most “inhospitable” side of Elbrus.
Ascent from the south
The southern route is the most popular among travel companies and the most equipped for adaptation of all. From this side you can even conquer Elbrus in the winter. The feedback of those who did this suggests that it requires remarkable physical strength and a willingness to resist frosts down to -45 degrees with a piercing wind.
The first acclimatization is carried out at an altitude of 2200 m at the Azu camp site. From here you can comfortably get to the next base on the cable car, which ends at an altitude of 2950 m at the station Old Horizon.
Reseeding on another line of the road, you can climb to the next point for adaptation - Mir station (3500 m). It is advisable for beginners not to rush and go through acclimatization gradually, devoting at least one day to each height.
From Mir station there is a chair lift to the Bochki shelter (3,750 m). It is in this camp that the main adaptation takes place. If you go on a trip, then the climbing schedule is something like this:
- On the first day in the "Barrels" the usual walk, familiarity with the surroundings and rest.
- The second day - a trip to the "Shelter 11" at an altitude of 4050 m. Ascent goes at an angle of 10 degrees and takes about 2 hours, as the lungs should gradually adapt to the height. The descent is carried out in 20 minutes.
- The third day - ascent to the rocks of Pastukhov (4600), if health and weather permit. Ascent takes place slowly, in 3-4 hours, near the rocks - a halt for tea, and then descent in 1.5-2 hours.
- The next 1-2 days are either climbing or additional acclimatization. The exit is usually at 2–3 a.m. under the light of flashlights to try to meet the dawn at the top.
The weather on Elbrus is changeable, so you should be prepared in advance, that in the middle of the way, you may have to turn back. Mountains do not forgive recklessness.
Ascent from the North
The conquest of Elbrus once began precisely on its northern side. Unlike the comfortable south side with its hotels and lifts, here you have to go all the way on your own. The first base for acclimatization are the Oleinikova and Roshchina huts or the Lakkolit camp.
Adaptation begins with an ascent to the rocks of Lenz (4700 m), training is held here. Climbing begins after complete acclimatization, relaxation and overnight. Intermediate parking to the top will no longer be. From the north, they most often climb to the eastern, smaller peak, since it is closer. An experienced guide can lead the group to the western peak, although it is easier to do this from the southern slope.
For those who love extreme sports, the season of skiing and snowboarding opens Elbrus in November. Reviews of these slopes are the most admired. The weather at this time usually pleases with its still relative warmth and already fallen snow.
Often you can see tourists climbing up to the top and skiers going down. Elbrus also hosts competitions for the fastest climb to the top. Record holder from Kazakhstan with his indicator 3 h 55 min. from the glade of Azau (2400 m) to the western peak (5642 m) no one has yet overtaken. To learn how to conquer mountains in this way requires years of training and knowledge of safety rules.
Safety regulations
When people come to Elbrus on a tour package, they should clearly understand that the main thing here is someone who has experience climbing to the top, so reporting to the person responsible for security should be unquestioning.
Before going out, even for acclimatization, it is obligatory:
- Checking equipment. It must be intact, dry and safe. It is imperative that you have a face cream and lip balm, as well as a mask or black glasses.
- Checking the route, reconciling time, communications and first-aid kits.
- You must have a thermos with hot tea and light food - sandwiches, bars or fruits.
Members of the group who are not registered in the Russian Emergencies Ministry are not allowed to go on a hike. This need was caused for the opportunity to conduct search and rescue work in case the group did not return.
New Year's Elbrus
To come to Elbrus for the New Year (the reviews on this tour are the most enthusiastic) - this means combining the meeting of the best holiday of the year with the opportunity to conquer the peak.
The program of the New Year's tour does not allow to relax, as it requires both gradual acclimatization and the development of skills to walk with “cats” and trekking poles. An important role is played by learning how to pack the backpack properly, as the higher the lift, the harder it will seem.
The same applies to using an ice ax, knitting and walking in a bundle. It often happens that people who once passed in a bundle while climbing to the top of the mountain become friends for life. Coaches take the preparation of the group members very seriously, since in winter Elbrus can present surprises with weather, icing and winds.
The skills of insurance on ice and the stopping of sliding are conducted, both in the group and independently. It takes 5-6 days to adapt and develop the necessary skills. When buying a ticket to the mountains, it should be understood that the minimum amount of time required for climbing is 8-10 days. There are no weekend tours to conquer Elbrus. No one gives guarantees that there will be a rise at all, the weather in these parts is extremely unpredictable.
But if you listen to the instructor, follow all his recommendations, take the young climber’s course and catch luck, this New Year’s tour will be the most unforgettable and amazing experience in life.