The history of shoes totals about 30 thousand years. During this time, many styles and models have changed, but still it remains the most necessary and important wardrobe item.
Shoes of ancient times
According to the conclusion of scientists who studied and analyzed the found remains of primitive people, the structure of their skeleton and leg bones, the first samples of ancient shoes appeared at the end of the Paleolithic era in western Europe. It was during this period that changes began in the structure of the foot of ancient people: the little finger began to decrease along with the overall shape of the foot, which was due to wearing narrow shoes.
The beginning of the history of shoes was marked by the cooling that took place during this period and the foundation of the first ancient civilizations: in order to protect themselves from the cold, people began to put on animal skins, and to wrap their legs in pieces of skin. A layer of dry grass was placed between the skin for insulation, and a bark of wood bark was used as fasteners.
The history of the appearance of shoes in hotter countries, such as Ancient Egypt, is associated with the appearance of sandals that people put on to protect their feet from hot sand, and they always walked barefoot indoors. Sandals were sewn from papyrus or palm leaves, tied to the leg with leather straps. In their manufacture, patterns were used that were the same for both legs. The richer Egyptians wore sandals with beautifully decorated straps. Another type of footwear popular in Ancient Egypt, found during excavations of settlements, is very similar to modern slippers with a closed toe.
Shoes in Ancient Greece
The look of shoes in ancient Greece can be judged by the frescoes depicting the Greek gods: these were “crepe” sandals, which were fastened to the leg with lacing almost to the knee. According to historical data, it was the Greeks who first began to sew shoes on symmetrical patterns for the right and left legs.
In addition to sandals, among ancient Greek women, “endromids” were popular - high boots with a sole and a bootleg of leather sewn to them, which was pulled by a long lace in front, and the toes looked out. Legislators of fashion were getters, who wore the most sophisticated, richly decorated shoes. Women's sandals, which left the inscription “Follow me” on the sandals were in fashion with the straight leggings, and peaches (stocking boots) were also very popular.
Another variety of shoes - “katurni” on a high platform - became known thanks to the Greek actors who dressed them during performances so that they could be seen by the whole public.
Shoes in Ancient Rome
Ancient Roman shoes were divided by social status and gender:
- calceus - closed shoes with ties in front worn only by plebeians;
- solea - sandals with straps, similar to Greek, poor Romans could use only 1 strap, and rich patricians - 4;
- women wore only white shoes, men - black;
- the festive shoes were red and richly decorated with embroidery and stones;
- military shoes worn by Roman soldiers — sturdy shoes with nails soled were called caligae;
- actors could wear only socci slippers.
Ancient Israel was famous for its great variety, where shoes were sewn of very high quality, using wool, leather, wood and reeds. These were shoes and sandals, shoes and high boots. High-heeled shoes appeared on the land of ancient Israel, in the exclusive models of which beautiful bottles with incense were attached to the heels.
Scythian shoes
The history of the shoes of the Scythian peoples, who were the ancestors of the Eastern Slavs, testifies that the highest popularity was enjoyed by high soft leather boots, which were pulled by belts, and colorful ornaments sewn from rags were used as decoration. They wore boots over felt stockings. The bootlegs of such boots were sewn with a mosaic of pieces of fur, colored felt and leather. Pants specially tucked inside the boots to demonstrate the beauty of shoes.
The shoes of the Scythian peoples were outwardly similar to the high fur boots worn by the northern nationalities in Russia. Women's boots were not so high, but they were made of red leather, they were decorated with patterns, a red wool strip with leather appliqués was sewn at the junction of the head and shaft .
The most original feature of Scythian shoes is the richly decorated soles of boots embroidered with beads and multi-colored thread from tendons. A similar trend of sole decoration existed among the Asian steppe peoples, who had the custom of sitting with their legs folded, with their heels out.
Shoes in Medieval Europe
The history of European shoes was marked in the Middle Ages by the fashion of “bullet” shoes with curved toes that were so long and so richly decorated with bells that they had to be tied to the leg so that you could walk normally. Such shoes in the 14th century, representatives of noble families were required to wear by decree of the King of France Philippe 4th.
The 15th century brought a new fashion for shoes: only stupid models begin to sew shoemakers, and as the nose expands and expands, the back begins to narrow. Already at the beginning of the 16th century. shoes had to be tied to the legs at the level of the rise. At this time, high heels trimmed with leather appear, and also, as a result of a hobby for hunting, boots with very high shafts - “over the knee boots” that were comfortable when riding horses, are in fashion.
Fashionable shoes in the 16th century were masculine: it was men who could flaunt new red shoes with heels, and women hid their shoes under fluffy skirts, and no one saw them.
And only from the beginning of the 17th century, when shorter skirts became fashionable, women were able to show their fans elegant silk, brocade and velvet shoes in small heels. Wealthy ladies wore shoes richly embroidered and decorated with stones.
The Baroque and Rococo epochs were marked by the heyday of luxurious ballroom shoes, richly decorated with bows, beads, ribbons. The models themselves were sewn from expensive fabrics and leather of various colors (red, yellow, blue, etc.). Spurs were added to decorate men's treads and for riding comfort.
At the end of the 18th century, during the Enlightenment, the place of fabric shoes was taken by more practical leather shoes, which both women and men began to wear with pleasure. The boots had comfortable fasteners or lacing, a small heel-glass, and winter models were decorated with fur.
Wooden shoes
In ancient times, wood as a material for making shoes was rarely used, because it was considered quite rough and fettering movement. The only exception is the manufacture of soles for sandals, which in ancient Rome were tied to the foot with pieces of cloth and put on the feet of the captives so that they would not run away.
In Europe, in the 16-18 centuries, wooden "logs" (or clogs) with a thick sole, which were fastened with a metal hoop to the leg, became fashionable. Wealthy women dressed them so as not to get dirty with street dirt. The poor peasants had galoshes in use, having a wooden bottom and a leather top, in which it was convenient to walk in the mountains.
Clogs and galoshes gained great popularity in the Netherlands and in the north of France because of durability and convenience: in such shoes you can walk in wetlands without risk of getting your feet wet. It was made from wood species that did not crack: poplar, willow, etc. In 1570, a guild of shoemakers specializing in the manufacture of logs was created; some Dutch peasants still wear such wooden shoes during field work.
Wooden shoes later became popular in England, where peasants wore them as casual shoes, which were replaced with leather shoes on holidays.
Shoes for warriors
Ancient Roman warriors began to use sandals as shoes due to the fact that they had to travel long distances over rough terrain. Military sandals were reinforced with belts, nails. Later they began to use shoes that were laced along the upper part of the lower leg, and the estate and the rank of warrior could be determined by decorative elements.
Since ancient times, warriors wore boots, most often red, because they could not see the blood during the battle or the bloody corns after the exercises. Later, with the introduction of uniforms, military shoes began to be produced in black. In Europe, boots became popular after the invasion of the steppe armies in the era of the Migration of Peoples; they began to be worn not only by cavalrymen, but also by herders.
In the Middle Ages, when the clothes of knights consisted of metal armor, socks of knight's shoes (sabatons) were also made of metal. A sharp plate toe on such a boot served as an additional tool for the warrior: they could mortally hit the enemy. Later, the Sabatons began to do with a rounded toe, they were called "duck legs".
In the 19th century, the British army began to sew for their troops high boots with lacing, nicknamed the "Bluers". According to legend, such boots were worn by soldiers of the Blucher army during the Napoleonic Wars. They existed as military shoes for many years.
In the 20th century. during the First World War, the armies of the European states were equipped with “trench boots” on a sturdy sole made of thick leather. Since 1941, the U.S. Army has been using leather shoes with synthetic sole lacing.
Shoes in Russia
The history of shoes in Ancient Russia begins with the most common, which was worn not only by peasants, but also by poor citizens - these are bast shoes. Such shoes existed only in Russia, the material for its manufacture was birch bast (linden, willow, oak, etc.). To get one pair of bast shoes, it was necessary to peel 3-4 trees.
There were bast bast shoes everyday and festive, more elegant: pink or red. To warm in winter, straw was laid in bast shoes, and hemp rope was hemmed from below. They were fastened to the leg with obora (narrow leather straps) or urine pads (hemp rope). One pair of bast shoes was enough for the peasant for 4-10 days, but they were cheap.
The oldest Russian leather shoes are pistons, soft shoes from a piece of whole leather, gathered around the edge of the strap. Over time, boots became very popular in Russia, which were sewn the same way, for both men and women. Leather boots appeared in Russia due to the raids of nomadic Asian tribes. They were made by leather and shoe craftsmen who independently prepared rawhide. The sole was sewn from several layers of cowhide, and heels began to be made from it over time.
The top of the ancient boots was slanted obliquely so that the front was higher than the back. Usually they were made of black leather, and festive morocco boots were sewn of red, green, blue leather, staining it during dressing. Such boots were made in Russia, first from imported material, then from the middle of the 17th century, they began to make morocco in Moscow at the factory of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich.
The morocco boots were made from goat skin, which was specially soaked for 2 weeks in a mortar, and then carefully polished with stone to get a shiny surface. Usually they were stained with aniline dyes; in addition, a special pattern (shagreen leather) was given to the skin.
In the 19th century native Russian felted shoes appeared: boots and wire rods, which were made from sheep’s wool. Their price was high due to the complexity of manufacturing, so most often the family had one pair of boots, which were worn in turn.
In the 20th century. In Russia, shoemakers received the nickname “spinning tops” because they worked on the outskirts (shoe shops were located in Maryina Grove), and worked like lone wolves.
19-20 century and the emergence of the shoe industry
The first guilds and shoe shops appeared in Europe during the era of the development of feudalism, then shoes began to be made in small batches on orders. In the first place in their activities go the quality and appearance of the products.
In the Renaissance, manufactories began to be founded, when shoes began to be made in stages, but each pair was still made to order. And only in the 19th century. velvet shoes are replaced by more practical and comfortable leather shoes and boots.
In these years, mass production of shoes begins, taking into account the configuration of the foot, asymmetry and separation of the pair into left-right. The shoe industry is becoming more mechanized, shoe factories are appearing where machine tools are replacing manual labor. By the beginning of the 20th century production of shoe products is growing up to 500 pairs per employee, and by the middle - up to 3 thousand pairs.
In the 20th century, shoes began to play an important role in creating a female image: due to the shortening of skirts, women got the opportunity to showcase their beautiful legs and elegant shoes or shoes, and women's sandals again came into fashion. Depending on the weather and destination, the shoes were worn from leather, satin, suede or silk, and the shoes were learned to make not only on laces, but also using hooks and buttons.
In the 1930s, the fashion for shoes began to change: platforms and wedges appeared. At this time, designers S. Ferragamo and S. Arpad began their activities, who began to professionally manufacture modern models and come up with new styles. Over time, shoes and boots begin to be made not only of leather, but also fabrics and wood, rubber are used to make “bot”.
The beginning of the 1950s marked the appearance of a novelty - a small stiletto heel, as well as styles without heels, designed for convenience during dancing (rock and roll, etc.). Disputes over who became the ancestor of hairpins: the French R. Viviere, R. Massaro or Italian
S. Ferragamo.
Shoe factories of the second half of the 20th century are already working with incredible capacities, where the process is fully automated and controlled by software. They produce thousands of pairs of fashionable shoes every month, which is made from both natural and synthetic materials.
Fashionable shoes in the 21st century
The 21st century is a time of continuous improvement of shoes (new pads, styles and insoles are regularly invented and manufactured), as well as changes in the forms of its sale. Shoes can now be bought both in a small boutique, a large supermarket, and online.
Collections of the latest models are presented on the catwalks in each season by a large number of countries and famous designers, where there are summer, winter, demi-season and evening shoes. Modern shoes are a variety of styles and models that were popular many centuries ago, and appeared recently: these are sandals, shoes, shoes, moccasins, clogs, boots, sneakers and many other different kinds. Modern designers and manufacturers equipped with the latest technology can easily put all their ideas into practice.