Any figure can become attractive if the style of the skirt is successfully selected, claimed the eminent expert on the fashion world Christian Dior. When the hopes for a store filled with fashionable things did not materialize - try to solve the problem on your own.
Any needlewoman someday asks herself the question: "But should I try to make a skirt pattern myself?" Most often, the first sewing experience begins with this. After an excellent result, I want to create and create wonderful things! Awesome unique clothing begins to appear in the wardrobe: blouses, dresses, skirts. The pattern for beginners will suit the simplest - a skirt without slots and pockets.
Be patient and go!
Taking measurements to build patterns
Firstly, you must make a basic drawing, which can be further applied to form other styles of skirts: for example, pencil, trapezoid, year, etc.
To build a skirt pattern drawing, take accurate measurements from the figure:
- waist circumference (in the narrowest part);
- hip circumference (in protruding places);
- skirt length.
You will also need to apply such a value as "seat height" - this is the length of the vertical segment from the waist to the hips (approximately it is 19-20 cm) and the increase in free fit (1-2 cm).
Divide the waist and hips in half.
For example, you get the following results:
- Half waist circumference - 40 cm.
- Half of the hips circumference is 50 cm.
- Skirt length - 65 cm.
Prepare drawing paper: wallpaper sheet, whatman paper, etc.
Building the basic foundation of a straight skirt
To build a pattern, you use the following measurements: OT = 40 cm, OB = 50 cm, DU = 65 cm. Increases in the waist and hips of 1 cm.
Proceed directly to the construction of the drawing with our step-by-step instructions. The skirt pattern will be executed on a whatman paper. Also, immediately prepare a simple pencil, felt-tip pen, ruler, scissors and scotch tape.
The beginning of the construction of any skirt is the construction of a right angle with a vertex at point T. Draw down a segment of the VT equal to the length of the skirt (65 cm). Set aside from point T the height of the TB seat (19 - 21 cm). From points T, H, B draw perpendiculars 50 cm + 1 cm (OB + increase in the hips). Got T1, B1, H1. Calculate the length of BB2. It will be equal to OB + Pb / 2 - 1 = 25 cm. From T2 draw a line upwards equal to 1.3 cm. From the received mark for lateral tucking, set aside 3.2 cm in both directions. Seamlessly connect the resulting point with T - this is the top of your pattern.
Now make a tuck calculation. There is a special formula for this: (OB + Pb) - (OT + Fri). In your case, it turns out (50 + 1) - (40 +1) = 10 cm. Divide this value by 3 = 3.3 cm for the rear panel and 6 = 1.7 cm for the front.
Find the depth of the tucks: the back - BB3 = 0.4 * BB2 = 0.4 * 25 = 10 cm, the front - B1B4 = 0.4 * B1B2 = 0.4 * 26.5 = 10.6 cm.
For a beautiful fit of the skirt, it is necessary to slightly narrow the side lines from H2 by 1.5-2 cm.
Circle the finished pattern-base with a felt-tip pen with a thick line and cut it. This is the basis for modeling skirts of any shape.
Economical fabric cutting
The correct location of the skirt pattern on the material leads to its economical use. First, lay out the large parts - the front and back parts, and put the smaller ones between them: belt, hem, pockets. Do not forget to leave a distance between the patterns to make allowances for seams. Note that when modeling patterns they are not taken into account. The additive on the seam depends on the location in the product. Suppose, on the sides - from 1.5 to 3 cm, on the waist it is 2.5 - 3.5 cm, for bending from the bottom - from 5 to 7 cm.
Errors of inexperienced craftswomen
Common mistakes during the first construction of patterns:
- Do not forget about seam allowances! Having laid all the parts of the pattern on the fabric and, having optimally placed them, pin them with pins. Circle the contour with a special pencil or piece of chalk. Then circle again taking into account the allowances for the seams - along this line you will cut the fabric.
- Tucks are never cut! They are simply circled.
- The consumption of fabric will be much greater if the fabric with a large print, as it will be necessary to adjust the pattern.
- Do not forget about the shared thread of fabric!
- When taking measurements to create a pattern of a skirt, it is better to wear thin clothes or stay in underwear.
They take measurements, as a rule, on the right. To fix the waist line, tie the lace so that it is horizontal. Do not pull the measuring tape very tightly - it just needs to lie well on the figure.