Gloss dictates modern standards of beauty . We see models on the covers, but we donāt even think about how huge the industry is and what kind of people are behind it. Patrick Demarchelier is one of those who were at the forefront of fashion photography.
Youth Demarchelier
At the end of hot August 1943, a future photographer was born in the suburb of Paris, occupied by the Germans, whose name was destined to go down in history - Patrick Demarchelier. His biography seems cloudless, but, like every person, he had his ups and downs. The boy spent his childhood with his family in the port city of Le Havre, in the north of the country. In addition to Patrick, the family had 4 more brothers. Parenting completely lay on the shoulders of the mother. Father left the family when Patrick was 8 years old. Soon, the mother remarried, and the stepfather played a big role in the life of the future photographer. It was he who gave him the old Kodak for his seventeenth birthday, after which the young man said that he had found the work of his life. As a rule, when a child talks about the desire to devote his life to art, this prettyly upsets his parents. But Patrick's family was only glad, because at school he studied very badly, and his further fate was foggy.
Beginning photographer
Patrick Demarchelier began a career in his hometown in a very prosaic position. He took people to the passport. Occasionally, orders for wedding photos were tucked up. Of course, this could not satisfy his ambitions, and at the age of 20 Patrick begins an independent life in Paris. Here he gets a job in the studio, where he takes newspaper shots. The young talent was appreciated, and soon Demarchelier received the position of assistant photographer responsible for magazine covers. In parallel with this work, he holds the position of full-time photographer in a large modeling agency.
One of the best magazine masters of photography was then Hans Foyrer. He collaborated with many magazines - Nova UK, French and British Vogue. In 1964, Patrick Demarchelier became his assistant. The masterās photos inspired him, he always spoke of Hans as his teacher. Patrick was never trained to shoot professionally, his school was practice, and it was Foyrer who told him about the basics of the craft. Soon Demarchelier became one of the most popular photographers.
America
The beginning of the 1970s. The heyday of advertising and glossy photography. In many magazines you can see the signature: "Patrick Demarchelier." The photographerās works are very successful at home. He collaborates with Marie Claire, Elle, Glamor, 20 Ans. For a thirty-year-old photographer, this is a huge success. It would seem, what more could you want? But in 1975, after the beloved woman, he went to America. Although the lady soon left him, Demarchelier did not regret the move. He contracted with American Vogue.
At that time, the magazine resolutely refused the graceful delights of the 60s. Listening to the spirit of the times, the editor is looking for new images - not refined, but close to ordinary women, natural. A modern girl should radiate health, vitality, be athletic and fit. That is how Patrick Demarchelier saw his models. The cover photo for Vogue with Bonnie Bergman is considered one of the iconic ones for the magazine. A young tanned woman with a short haircut stands on the seashore, casually thrusting her hands into gymnastic rings. The shooting took place in Barbados, needed an energetic sports plot. Unfortunately, they forgot to take care of the inventory, and we had to make it ourselves using improvised tools. Few people heard about Bergman at that time, but after the famous cover she began to be quoted as one of the best models. With this photo, the aesthetics of sports and the cult of a taut, flexible body came to the glossy world. At that time it was a revolution.
Career heyday
With the move to America, Patrick Demarchelier became a truly famous photographer. He lives in New York and collaborates with a solid list of magazines. The most influential publications are not averse to getting his work. In 1980, he ceases cooperation with the American Vogue and leaves for the British branch. But in 1989, he returned to Vogue US, and on the first cover after a long break, a frame from a beach photo shoot with Madonna appears. In the same year, Princess Diana saw Demarchelier and invited him to the position of the official photographer of the royal family. For the first time this honorary post was taken by a foreigner.
In 1992, Demarchelier took off the cover for the 100th anniversary issue of Vogue. On it, he captured the 10 best models of the magazine, among which were Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatyana Patits, Claudia Schiffer. It was one of the most successful releases in the history of Vogue.
Patrick Demarchelier also works with Christy Turlington, Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Janet Jackson, Angelina Jolie, Nicole Kidman. He takes part in advertising campaigns of Lacoste, Louis Vuitton, Celine, Dior, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein. Publications appear in Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Rolling Stone, Mademoiselle, Glamor, GQ and Allure. His work decorated 3 calendars Pirelli. Today it is one of the most successful photographers in the world.
Demarchelier Style
Despite the abundance of production in the masterās portfolio, he always claimed that he cultivated naturalness in the frame. The demarchelier often says that he is trying to level the barrier in the form of a camera between the photographer and the model. When shooting, he tries to emphasize emotion, a casual look, a tilt of the head, lively immediacy. Even in the flaws of the model, the demarchelier sees beauty and grace. Women at his work are beautiful in their naturalness and spontaneity. The photographer sees the secret of his skill in tireless work. And, looking around his biography, you understand that the words about hard work in this case are not at all an empty phrase. Fame did not spoil the master, as is often the case in the gloss industry.
Albums
The photographer released four albums with his works. The first was released in 1995. It was called succinctly: "Patrick Demarchelier: photographs." As a rule, such art albums are issued with a circulation of up to 3,000 copies. The circulation of the Demarchelier publication was 12,000, and a year later another 5,000 had to be printed. The second book, āThe Discovery of Eleganceā, was published in 1997. The next album was released "Forms". All three books were reprinted many times, and 10 years later, in 2008, an edition was published with new photographs. It was named the same as the first, and enjoyed even greater success.
To date, the master continues to work, despite a rather respectable age. In the footsteps of his father went his youngest son, who himself is engaged in photography and helps his father in his studio. Patrick Demarchelier is one of the patriarchs of photography, thanks to whose work many famous models are famous and important historical figures were immortalized on film.