Beautifully stitching open sections on thin fabrics can be quite problematic and difficult, since the flowing material can crumble and literally “float” in the hands. Want to get a great result in the form of a neat, gracefully tucked edge? Use the Moscow seam for this. Consider the main stages of its implementation in the form of phased instructions with photos.
Moscow seam: distinctive features of the technology and secrets of execution
This method of processing open sections is most suitable for thin tissues (photo 1), which have a rare and transparent structure. When working with such materials, situations often arise when the hem is “removed” (especially when edging on the overlock) along with the line. Therefore, it is necessary to apply a special technology. The basic principle of the work is a double turn and laying a line almost “seam to seam”. The finished hem turns out to be very narrow (no more than 3-4 mm) and visually does not make the product heavier. What is the secret of such jewelry, fine work? Moscow seam differs from others in its special internal processing technology. The thing is cutting off a free section of fabric from the edge almost close to the laid line. Then, after the second upheaval, a finishing Moscow seam is sewn near or on top of the first. The finished scheme is as follows: from the wrong side, two trim lines (almost uniform) go along the edge, and one on the front side.
Stage One: Turn-up and Stitching
- Pre-iron the fabric.
- If necessary, cut off the edge of the canvas, which is frayed in the form of a fringe.
- Place the material face down.
- Turn the edge 9-10 mm.
- Make a line close to the edge. The distance to it should be no more than 2 mm. The stitch width is standard. Make sure that there is no contraction of the canvas.
In this way, begin to perform the Moscow stitch on chiffon, silk and other airy fabrics, provided that the edge is in the lobar or transverse direction. And how to act, for example, when finishing the bottom of a flared skirt? It should complicate the implementation of the first stage. Thanks to additional actions, the result in the end will be more accurate and elegant.
Option to complete the first turn
A slightly complicated way to perform the initial stage of the turnaround is best used if the fabric is cut in an oblique direction or the edge has an arcuate shape. Typically, this problem occurs when processing the bottom of a dress or skirt with a flare cut. The allowances for seams in such models are no more than 1-1.5 cm, since the turn on the oblique section, even slightly increased, will be wave-like. So, in order to achieve accuracy, you need to lay a preliminary line on a straight, straightened canvas. Then, bending the fabric, immediately iron it to fix the form (photo 2). Only then do the first line, guided by paragraph 5 of the first stage, described above. It is in this slightly complicated version that the Moscow seam is often performed on curtains made of thin fabrics during the design of lambrequins, where various directions of the threads are present when cutting.
Stage Two: Cutting the Fabric
We proceed to the internal processing of the seam. Using sharp scissors, cut the seam from the edge to the stitch from the seamy side almost flush (photo 3). Leave a small gap, literally 1 mm. The finished result is much more accurate if you pull the seamed edge in a semicircle onto the index finger of your left hand and use your right hand to control the scissors while feeling support and limitation. It is important not to overdo it at this stage, so as not to accidentally damage the seam line, but too much rest of the fabric is also useless. As you can see, the Moscow seam is quite a jewelry and painstaking work. For its high-quality performance, in addition to efforts, it also requires an excellent eye and a firm hand. After cutting the gate, you can re-iron with an iron.
Stage Three: Second Stitching
- Fold the edge 2–2.5 mm wide so that the first line is in the middle.
- Lay the machine needle-to-needle seam, or several side by side, backing 1-1.5 mm to the left. At the same time, try to stretch the fabric slightly and avoid skewing, especially with a different direction of the shared thread (photo 4).
Performing almost this stage, we can conclude that the width of the finished hem will depend on the location relative to the edge of the canvas of the first seam. Therefore, the better the workpiece was made, the better the result.
So, we examined all the subtleties of how to make a Moscow seam on chiffon, silk or any thin fabric. Of course, such stitching is also applicable to other materials (with the exception of very thick ones) - crepe, satin, calico, etc. The application of the described technology will allow you to process the slices neatly and beautifully, even without the special tools to carry out the finishing elements of products.