After constructing the pattern of the desired product and transferring it to the fabric, one should not forget about the seam allowances. They are required to connect parts and depend on several conditions. First of all, they pay attention to the type of material and its properties, such as, for example, flowability, thickness. For different products and for each individual seam, the allowance will be different.
Why is this value different?
The allowance varies depending on:
- type of material: knitwear, fur, silk;
- product type: bedding, skirt, trousers;
- design features of the seam: with a border, with a closed cut.
The size of the seam allowances for products of mass production and with individual cut differs due to the features of the technology. To create the correct pattern of the product, it should be noted that too large allowances tighten the fabric, and when small at the joints, sewing will creep along the seams. If the size of the allowance for the seam is incorrectly selected, the appearance of the product can be severely affected: distortions, seizing and other defects are possible.
How much to retreat
Some magazines give patterns with allowance for seams. The average value is 1.5 cm. This is not always convenient, since this value cannot be the same for all parts of the pattern. It is best to immediately cut off the edge of the pattern 15 mm and re-build the necessary lines of the pattern. This is more convenient than leveling everything in a cut product.
Here are the seam allowances that are commonly used (in cm):
| Shoulder sections, embossed seams without finishing stitching | 1,5-2 |
| Mid section back, side in trousers and skirt | 1,5-2 |
| Middle seam in trousers | 2-3 |
| Step in trousers | 1,5-2 |
| Side sections in the product and on the sleeves | 2-3 |
| Lines of armhole, ridge and neck | 1,0 |
| Stitching the bodice to the skirt (along the waistline) | 1,0 |
| The upper part of the belt | 1,0 |
| Patch pocket - top cut | 2.5-3 |
| Patch pocket - side and bottom cut | 0.7-1 |
| Bottom dresses, straight skirts | 4-5 |
| The bottom of the skirt "wedge" | 2.5-3 |
| Bottom of shirts, blouses, jackets | 2.5-3 |
| Bottom of the skirt "sun" | 1,5-2 |
Taking into account the materials, the above values should be increased, according to the following table, by several centimeters.
| Coat fabrics, bulk materials, all seams except: | 0.5 |
| on the sides of the cuff and collar | 0.5-0.7 |
| waist belt | 0.7-0.8 |
| Lining seams | 2-5 |
| Processing cuffs, collar with lining fabric | 2-2.5 |
| Batting Details | 0.7-1.0 |
| Details from foam rubber, synthetic winterizer | 0.4-0.5 |
Methods of application to fabric
You can use different tools to apply lines to the seam allowance on the fabric. Each of them is convenient in its own way, but the disadvantages are not alien to them.
- A piece of chalk. For beginners, its use is undesirable. The line is thick, it is inconvenient to draw it, as the fabric moves.
- Thin piece of soap. The line is thinner, but on some materials it is practically invisible or it quickly erases. In addition, dust from soap when inhaled irritates the nasal mucosa.
- Felt pens, markers. A very convenient tool for beginners. The line is thin and clearly visible, but the process takes a lot of time.
Experienced craftswomen make allowances for a seam by eye, with great accuracy, and perform patterns already taking into account all the increases. But in order to fill your hand and get the product exactly as you would like, you need to carefully understand all the tricks of sewing.