A rare example of the oldest manor estates in the Smolensk region was the Griboedov Khmelita estate, made in the Baroque style. She passed to the Griboedovs in the 17th century from the ancient Buinosov-Rostov clan. This place has always possessed original Russian beauty, full of quiet provincial landscapes. The history of the estate of Griboedov (Khmelity) is an interweaving of many fates of the Russian aristocracy of tsarist Russia. She is full of intrigue and secrets.
History
The village of Khmelita was first mentioned in historical documents in 1680. It got its unusual name from the river flowing here with the name Khmelitka. Its banks were full of hops, which looked picturesque. These places were chosen by the nobility, which turned them into the Russian nest of the aristocracy. The first owner of the estate is S. Griboedov, the great-grandfather of the famous writer. He was the favorite of Princess Sophia, an actor of the court theater. His son, Timothy, was the Dorogobuzh commander of Peter I. The manor building itself was built in the 18th century by F. A. Griboedov, he was the writer’s grandfather. It was he who organized the richest collection of books, the theater. Regular banquet feasts held here attracted the best representatives of the aristocracy of the Russian Empire.
Historical events
The main house was built in 1753. Six years later, the temple of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God was erected here. Until 1812, the future playwright spent his childhood here.
When Napoleon attacked, the French, led by Murat, stopped at the estate. When the French were driven out, there were Russian partisans led by Major General I. M. Begichev.
The miracle saved the estate from the horrors of the civil and World War II.
Twenty years after these events, the estate was thoroughly reconstructed. Features of the Empire style were added to the house, replacing the details left over from the Baroque.
By the end of the 19th century, the estate was deprived of most of the furniture, in decline. In 1894, it was acquired by Count Heiden. He was engaged in the restoration of the ancient palace. The paintings of V. Lisinov, Koro and many others were also stored in the Khmelite estate of Griboedov. It was the richest collection of the time. When the October Revolution came, it was completely transported.
Soviet time
In wartime, Khmelita, the estate of Griboedov in the Smolensk region, became a convenient place for the Nazis. Here for a long time their headquarters was located. Then there were fierce battles.
And in 1954, other dramatic events took place on the estate. Then the collective farmers made a bonfire right on the territory of the central building. The fire spread to the entire estate. The original appearance of the house, which was built by unknown masters a long time ago, has not been preserved.
Subsequently, ancient buildings were destroyed. The temple was disfigured, the outbuilding was demolished, the refectory and other buildings were destroyed.
Nevertheless, the efforts of connoisseurs of antiquity of the architect Baranovsky and his apprentice Kulakov, the estate of Griboedov Khmelit was restored. Already in the 1990s, they organized the Griboedov Museum here.
Impact on the writer
Only with the release of “Woe from Wit”, the witty comedy of Griboedov, did the local aristocracy recognize itself in the main characters of the comedy.
Moreover, the author denounced the musty environment of the old nobility in very bold terms. He spent his childhood, actually observing the complacency and boasting of aristocrats, which resulted in the features of Khlestakov, Khryumin, Famusov in the pages of his books. They contain descriptions of relatives and secular acquaintances of his mother, who always tried to hide the constraint of their situation due to the messy ties of their husbands, former insignificants. They tried to observe aristocratic customs, not lagging behind the high society.
Description of the estate of Griboedov Khmelity
The main attraction of this ancient and having seen a lot of tragedy place is the main house. Baroque style is emphasized by risalits full of arched and triangular pediments. Their combination with columns ascended on high pedestals and elegant applicative decorative elements is interesting. Unusual and original was the installation of pair staircases here in the park facade. The brick walls were plastered and were blue in color, while individual elements were bleached.
Almost every element is complemented by Baroque drawings, where emphasized castle stones, ears and earrings stand out. This place has rightfully become the most important attraction of the Smolensk region.
The preserved spirit of the old era allows holding cultural events in the style of Griboedov readings with actors and directors from various regions of Russia.
Griboedov's friend, Lykoshin, described the estate as his most beloved family home. From his handwritten memoirs, much also became known about the playwright’s childhood and youth, about his environment, reflected in the pages of his works. From these memoirs it is known that Alexander was always distinguished by wit, joked over the whole district and even “plagued his relatives”. So there were Famusov, Chatsky, Repetilov. Then he met with the Decembrists Yakushkin and Kakhovsky.
Neighborhood
Already in the XXI century, a route for tourists was created around the estate of Griboedov Khmelity, which affects the estates of neighboring villages. The owners of these estates were the prototypes of the playwright's works.
The culture of the era described was considered a manor. Along with generations of aristocrats, A. S. Griboedov himself was brought up on it.
The population of these places of that period, however, was distinguished by a high cultural level and similarity to each other. So, in the district to this day the remains of the estates of the Lykoshkins, Khomyakovs, Sheremetevs, Volkonskys have been preserved. The history of their construction dates back to the 18th century. Here lived and worked the mastermind of Slavophilism A. Khomyakov, the famous architect N. Benois.
The buildings that have survived from that era also have high cultural value. Some of them became the scene of the novel by L. Tolstoy "War and Peace."
In the immediate vicinity of the village is the small homeland of Admiral Nakhimov. Despite the fact that his house was not preserved, his museum is destroyed here on the site of the former oil mill. The collected collection reflects the amazing size of the personality of the legendary naval commander.
It's amazing how many sights and cultural values you can visit here at a time, just sitting on the swallow "Moscow-Vyazma". The road from Moscow will not take more than 3 hours. Getting here is easy and by car.
Bogoroditsky field
This place in the area of the estate of Griboedov Khmelita gained notoriety during the tragic events of World War II. In the fall of 1941, in these fields during the "Vyazemsky Cauldron", a large-scale operation, the Soviet units fell into a real meat grinder. They were surrounded by fascists, and the battles here were bloody. With particular bitterness, Soviet fighters resisted Hitler's plans for a blitzkrieg.
The commanders did not spare their lives. So, when General Efremov, together with his army, fell into this environment on Vyazma, Stalin sent a plane for him. The doom of all who ended up in the boiler was obvious. But the general, refusing to escape and leave his fighters, sent the wounded on the plane. Soon he was wounded in battle. Avoiding captivity, the general shot himself at a time when the entire leadership of the 33rd army had already been killed.
The Germans who found the remains of Efremov admired the qualities shown by the general. He was buried by them with all honors. There is information that the Wehrmacht officer said that in order to defeat the USSR, they need to fight like this Russian commander fought for his homeland.
According to the memoirs of Marshal Zhukov, it was thanks to this resistance that the Germans' plans were frustrated at the cost of the lives of those people. Later, a memorial was set up in memory of those events. There are many burials, a stele and a walkway of memory. Together, this is a kind of open-air museum.
How to get to the estate of Griboedov Khmelity
The estate is located in the Smolensk region, 260 kilometers from Moscow.
In addition to the trip on the swallow "Moscow-Vyazma", the automobile route is also very popular. When driving from Moscow, you need to go onto the Minsk highway, turning at the entrance to Vyazma on the sign to Khmelite. Continue on the highway for 35 kilometers. Since there are many attractions in Vyazma, it is better to devote more than a day to visiting these historical and unusually picturesque places.
Where to stay
At the estate of Griboedov Khmelite a cozy modern hotel is arranged. It is fully equipped for the comfort of visitors. There is everything you need for tourists tired of the road. A stop at the estate will give time to get acquainted with all the unique objects of these historical distressful places.
activity
In a house where once the nobles lived in great style, where gypsy choirs sounded, theater performances and dinner parties were held, holidays are now booming in honor of that era. They reproduce ancient fun for all ages. Performances of the ensembles of ancient music adorn the solemn parts of the festivities. Opera theaters perform, dance clubs put on fragments of balls of the 19th century. Master classes, fairs with goods of folk craftsmen are always organized. The prices here are very low, but the exhibits are impressive.
Permanent are the All-Russian Griboedov holidays. They are timed to the patronal holidays of the local church of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God. The playwright’s birthdays are celebrated in mid-January. Each such event brings together Russian writers, poets, journalists, artists and many other artists.
Special attention is also given to the Nakhimov events. All those who cherish the memory of the Russian admiral flock here. Andreevsky flag is raised here with solemn orchestral music. Then begins the performance of naval officers with old songs. Each time, ancient festivities are organized, as well as marine entertainments of bygone eras. Those who want to compete in shipbuilding sports.
An entire exposition is organized here. It contains a rich collection of documents, rare books, objects of the ancient life of the aristocracy. All this together gives a vivid idea of how the everyday life of the first persons of the Russian Empire proceeded.
Reviews
According to reviews on the estate of Griboedov Khmelite, it will be optimal to take a guide in the reserve. There are not so many people in the estate, and yet tourists are advised to take an individual tour and listen to the narration and interesting facts prepared by the guide.
Particular attention should be paid to the surroundings of the estate, and in particular the ancient park area, which caught the famous writer.
The estate is surrounded by a beautiful park with huge old oaks, which Griboedov himself remembers, a walk along its alleys is a separate pleasure for many lovers of antiquity and even professional literary critics.