Every woman at home should have a sewing machine. They use it most often for domestic needs: sew a hole, shorten a skirt or sew a handkerchief. But what if you sew women's pants on your own? The pattern for beginners can be found ready-made or built independently. It is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.
Self-made trousers may be needed in different cases:
- When store trousers do not fit properly. This can be caused by various reasons: non-standard ratio of waist and hips, pregnancy, fullness in some places, and others.
- When you want an exclusive. Shops and markets are full of typical products from the simplest fabrics. Exclusive models cost fabulous money.
- When a high-quality fabric was discovered at home, which is just suitable for trousers in size and composition.
- When there is not enough money for a new thing. If you correlate the cost of the amount of required fabric and the cost of the finished product from a fabric of the same composition, you can see that the independent production of trousers will help to save.
If there are very few sewing skills, then you can try to start with making the simplest model of trousers. For example, a pattern of women's trousers for beginners can be used (harem pants or elastic trousers as a result).
What is needed
In order to sew pants, you will need:
- Millimeter paper for building patterns.
- Pencil, needles, spools of thread, matching the tone.
- Centimeter tape for taking measurements.
- Main and lining fabrics.
- Sewing machine.
- Overlock for processing the edges of the product. If it is not, it is not necessary to buy a special device. It is quite possible to follow the example of Italian fashion designers and process the edges of the product with an oblique trim, which is sold in the hardware store. You can cut the trim on your own from the same lining fabric.
- For finishing as needed: elastic, zipper, buttons, hooks, corsage tape and others. Additional materials are selected in accordance with the needs of the model.
Where to begin
In order to independently make a pattern of trousers, you need to take your measurements. It is better to do this in one underwear. Using a centimeter tape, you need to measure yourself in the places necessary to build a pattern:
- OT (waist circumference). Measured by the waist at the narrowest point.
- OB (hip circumference). Measured by the widest place of the body. If this is the buttock region, then the measurement is made on the most prominent place without pulling the tape. If the widest place is in the region of the breeches, then the tape should be slightly shifted down to this zone.
- The width of the bottom (SH).
- DB (side length). This size is determined by the distance along the side of the leg from the waist to the floor.
- Sun (seat height). This distance is determined as follows: you need to sit on a chair and lower the perpendicular to the seat. The length of this segment is the required size.
- VK (knee height).
- LH (step length). This indicator is calculated from the difference between the length of the product on the side step and the height of the seat.
- Width of the front and back halves of the trousers.
These designations are used in the construction of patterns, and are also used in finished patterns in magazines or on the Internet.
Where can I get a pattern without building
If you don’t really want to deal with the complex construction of a pattern that uses formulas, you can use the ready-made option:
- Journal. You can buy a fashion magazine and copy the pattern from there. The convenience of this method lies in the fact that the magazine often describes in detail how to perform individual elements of the model when sewing, as well as gives tips on choosing fabrics and cutting products. The downside is that all models are shown for the most common sizes and for typical figures. Therefore, the owners of non-standard forms will have to adapt the finished pattern to themselves.
- Ready trousers. It happens that in the closet are old trousers that have become unusable due to their useful life or have become trite small. You can take them and strut at the seams, then wash, iron and cut a new product on them, adding a few centimeters if necessary in the right places.
If there is no ready-made pattern, then it is worth building such a pattern that ideally takes into account all the features of the figure and can be used in the future for the manufacture of various models of women's trousers. Through simple manipulations, the basic pattern of women's trousers for beginners will turn into a designer product.
Building patterns
For cutting, you need a pattern of women's trousers for beginners. Step-by-step instructions will help you build it correctly. And with a little effort, you will become the owner of brand new original trousers.
Usually quite complicated is the construction of a pattern of women's trousers. For beginners, in the drawings, complex formulas are not used. It will require the use of only two body sizes: the circumference of the hips and the length of the product. But it is worth considering that any pattern that is used for the first time should be tailored to a specific figure.
Cutting will need to be done taking into account the fact that you will have to leave more allowances for seams. For the first time, it is better to do with a margin to protect yourself from error. For the second time, you can already use the finished pattern and quietly sew women's pants. The pattern for beginners is done in the simplest version and is used for sewing straight trousers, which are used in the basic wardrobe of any woman.
This scheme can be built in just half an hour.
Pattern of women's trousers for beginners: step by step instructions
First you need to determine the so-called hip norm. The formula for the calculation is as follows: Nb = 1/20. That is, if the hip circumference is 100 cm, then the hip norm calculated by this formula will be 5. The second formula, which is used to build, relates to determining the value of the hip coefficient. The formula looks like this: Kb = Nb / 2. That is, the hip coefficient is half the value of the hip norm. With a hip circumference of 100 cm, the coefficient will be 2.5. In the construction of this pattern, allowances for seams (1 cm) have already been taken into account. The increase along the bottom edge is 3 cm. The pattern of women's trousers of size 54 for beginners will have a hip norm of 6, and a 44th size - 4.5. This is how women's trousers begin to be built.
Pattern for beginners: calculation of the front half
It is more convenient to first build a pattern on a large-scale sheet, then to transfer it to a sheet of paper already in full size.
In the center of the sheet, a square is built containing on each side 5 values of the norm of the hips. For example, if the norm of the hips is 5, then the square will have sides of 25 cm each.
Now from the lower right corner of the obtained square up on its side we postpone the value of 1.5 norm of the hips. In the example, it is 7.5. From the same angle, set aside 1 right hip value. The resulting line is the buttock line. From the obtained angle, it is necessary to postpone a segment equal to half the norm of the hips, and through its end draw a line connecting the first two set points.
Now it is necessary to mark in the drawing the line of arrows of future trousers. To do this, from the lower left corner along the buttocks line, it is necessary to postpone 3 thigh norms to the right and draw a vertical line along this point. Now, from the point of intersection of the line of arrows and the upper surface of the square, you need to measure the length of the trousers, postpone this segment along the line of arrows down. The bottom line of trousers turned out. To determine the knee line, the segment from the bottom line to the buttock line is divided in half.
Now you need to narrow the legs. For the classic model of trousers, it is calculated as follows: on the knee line from the arrow line to the right and left sides, put aside a segment equal to 2.5 thigh norms. At the bottom of the trousers from the line of arrows lay 2 norms of the hips. This is how it is built for such a thing as women's trousers, a pattern. For beginners, even, as you see, there is nothing complicated.
Build the back half
This part of the model is more convenient to build on the front half, but for convenience highlight in a different color.
You need to find the square that was originally built and draw a square equal to 1 hip coefficient on each side above its upper right corner to the left. Farther from the already existing step line of the anterior half, one thigh norm should be put to the right, and the fourth part of the norm from it. Now you need to draw a smooth line from the resulting point to the upper left corner of the small square. From the same upper left corner of a small square, it is necessary to postpone 5 values of the norm of the hips so that this line connects with the waist line of the trousers of the front half of the pattern. The line will turn out a bit at an angle.
Now you need to add one norm of the hips along the knee line and the bottom line and connect the side seam line. Pattern is ready! Now it remains on the necessary scale to transfer it to a large sheet of paper and begin cutting. You can pay attention that on this pattern there are no tucks. The authors of this method recommend, after cutting, to try out the sketched trousers and mark the tuck where it is needed. This can be determined in a practical way. Some models involve tucks instead of tucks, so you can only arrange them at an equal distance from each other. There is very little left to sew women's pants. Pattern for beginners, the basics of cutting allows you to master, and then already - a matter of technology.
Further actions
After transferring the pattern to life-size paper, it is necessary to take the prepared fabric, iron it if necessary, fold it in half and pin the patterns in half with needles. Each half of the trousers is cut out in a double copy. Before you attach the pattern to the fabric, you need to determine the direction of the shared thread. The trouser pattern should be located strictly in the vertical direction. For beginners, you can advise the easiest way to determine the shared thread: you just need to pay attention to the edge of the fabric. It sets the direction of the shared thread. So the drawing must be applied parallel to the edge of the fabric. Draw future women's trousers on the fabric. Pattern for beginners basics of cutting and sewing helps to master without any problems.
Start sewing
After the pattern is circled in chalk on the fabric, you need to cut it with sharp scissors. Further, the details of the trousers are swept away and tried on. If the fit of the trousers on the figure is satisfactory, then you can start stitching on the machine. If the landing requires adjustment, then sweeping is carried out again and again trying on the product. This is done until the landing will not satisfy the hostess.
Modeling
We examined how to build a pattern of women's trousers (54 size). For beginners, everything was explained in detail. If elastic is used for sewing, and the goal is to obtain summer trousers, then silk fabric can be used. If you make additional narrowing, then you can get fashionable pants-pipes now. The basic principle of modeling: where you want the trousers to be wider, the pattern expands, and where you need a tight fit - it narrows.
Conclusion
Thus, having built the drawing, you can sew fashionable women's trousers for yourself in just an evening or two. The pattern for beginners is built quickly and easily. Once you have made a blank, you can sew several trouser models on its basis.